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Discussion Starter #1
So a quick intro to me before I get into the issue I am new to the powerstroke site, and new to ford diesels as well. I have had 6.2/6.5 chevs before and have a vw 1.9 TD. I also have a 00 F-350 with a 7.3 DI in it (441,000KM and running strong). But the reason for the post in this area is:

Recently my brother in-law and I picked up a 2004 f-250 extended cab shortbox with 300,000 on it for $2100 as a non running truck. A quick diagnoses lead us to fix the battery terminals for $6 and charge the battery up. The truck also needed a rad as it was taken out and used in another truck. So put a new rad in it. and proceeded to turn the truck over to start it.

Well it fired right up, a bit of smoke (whitish). but ran pretty good, had a bit of a injector knock but that seems to have gone completely out of it now that it has run a little. Not sure how long the truck sat for though, would say at least a year before we got it, It hand sunk in his yard a good 8 inches. He told us he got it for parts before he wrote of his truck.

so after it ran for a few minutes it seemed to be leaking, well looked more like someone put a garden hose on it, coolant from the pass side of the engine. Unplugged what appeared to the block heater on the pass side and coolant leak went away. (well water anyways). or it is out of coolant as we haven't filled it yet. and the temp gauge dosnt climb at all but we dont have it running for very long as too much oil is running down from under it, also from the pass side.

So Basically I have a garden hose turned on on the pass side for a coolant leak and a fountain turned on for an oil leak. and there is no shutoff valve for them.. well I guess there is if we shut the truck off. Both go away right away.. then just drip for a few mins after. Both seem to run down from the pass side head, I couldn't determine if it was a bad head gasket or something above that, under the turbo area. I can't tell what color the egr hose is either, orange or blue.. to me it is black/grey and cracking anyways so it is gretting replaced regardless.

So I am thinking EGR Cooler issue or maybe a pass head gasket. taking the turbo off tomorrow evening to see for sure. The intake valley area looks like it is soaked in oil. Also possibly thinking it might be a plugged oil cooler but not to sure there.

So I am wondering what you knowledgeable folks with the 6.0l think it may be, and what special tools am I going to need to get or order to work on this truck. Should I do an egr delete if I have to take it apart anyways? if I don't need to do head gaskets at this point I would rather not, but what are signs to watch for on the 6.0l that the head gasket is bad if we wanted to get some mileage out of the truck before doing the head gaskets and arp studs?
 

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Sounds like your on the right track. Turbo drain tube, and egr coolant hose to start with. Unfortunately, without a monitor you may be throwing alot of money at the truck without knowing the vitals. Check out the stickies and 6.0 tech section. It's more than I can type. Welcome.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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I have an autoenguinity on order with the ford enhancement pack, but it is going to be 3+ weeks to get. I may just order it from online, but shipping to Canada is a killer. Unless Someone in edmonton area has one for sale :D
 

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Check with A&E they may have a Canadian distributor you can order from locally.
 

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For the coolant leak on the passenger side, did you check to see if it was coming out above the starter? Seems to me the block plug is removed. I would check that.

As for the oil leak I would start at he top of the back cover and check to see if it's cackled or busted. Then check to see if the turbo drain tube is properly seated.

Definitely need to get a monitor on that truck and see what else could be wrong internally. Your definitely on the right track and good job getting it started so far. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
checked the block plug, it is in place and not wet around there. Thought it might be the block heater since it seemed to stop when I pull the plug off of it, but it also looks like it may have been running down the back of the head and block from the egr cooler. I just got the turbo off of it, looks like the oil fountain may have been the turbo drain back tube but not on the turbo side, it was loose on the engine side, and looks like the o-rings have gone hard on it. is there any updates I should be doing on the turbo drain back. Getting an egr cooler delete kit, thought of making one since I used to do autobody and fab work and have a welder, but too much time is involved with making one considering I can run over and grab everything for 300 and basically bolt it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Anyone have a part number for the updated turbo drain tube? no know can seem to find an updated tube in my area. And is it a ford part or is a aftermarket / performance?
 

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6c3z 9t515 a - Ford OEM updated Oil Drain Tube. $24.37 at sunrisefordparts.com (they are a site sponsor here and great to deal with).

3c3z 9t516 a - Ford OEM updated Oil Feed Tube. $87.50 at sunrisefordparts.com
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So we finished tearing the truck apart tonight. Found the oil leak on it. and also found the truck has been apart before, was missing one of the turbo mounting bolts.

EGR Cooler was leaking and someone tried to seal it with Silicone. installing an EGR Delete kit.

Turbo Drain tube was leaking a bit on the engine side, new updated tube going in place.

Intake gasket was leaking on the driver side. someone reused the original gasket. and didn't clean anything. new gaskets are going in place.

doing an oil cooler rebuild on it just cause, think it may have been plugged. I will say that even with draining the oil there is still oil in the cooler reservoir. not sure if it should have drained that or not but I may have to use the transfer pump and suck it out.. joy. The kit from ford came with the screen for the reservoir anything else needed to be done for screens that don't come with the ford kit?

Also doing a blue spring update while we are at it and it is apart.

didnt know about the updated oil feed tube, I will be picking one of them up tomorrow from ford as well.

Any other mods or updated parts I should do now while the intake, oil cooler and turbo are off and putting the in the egr delete?

Again we are not going to go as far as doing heads on it right now and the injectors seem fairly simple to do later if needed.

We are thinking chevron synthetic oil 0w40 and a fleet guard filter when we put it back together. and new air filter and fuel filter as well, since it is all apart anyways.
 

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So we finished tearing the truck apart tonight. Found the oil leak on it. and also found the truck has been apart before, was missing one of the turbo mounting bolts.

EGR Cooler was leaking and someone tried to seal it with Silicone. installing an EGR Delete kit.

Turbo Drain tube was leaking a bit on the engine side, new updated tube going in place.

Intake gasket was leaking on the driver side. someone reused the original gasket. and didn't clean anything. new gaskets are going in place.

doing an oil cooler rebuild on it just cause, think it may have been plugged. I will say that even with draining the oil there is still oil in the cooler reservoir. not sure if it should have drained that or not but I may have to use the transfer pump and suck it out.. joy. The kit from ford came with the screen for the reservoir anything else needed to be done for screens that don't come with the ford kit?

Also doing a blue spring update while we are at it and it is apart.

didnt know about the updated oil feed tube, I will be picking one of them up tomorrow from ford as well.

Any other mods or updated parts I should do now while the intake, oil cooler and turbo are off and putting the in the egr delete?

Again we are not going to go as far as doing heads on it right now and the injectors seem fairly simple to do later if needed.

We are thinking chevron synthetic oil 0w40 and a fleet guard filter when we put it back together. and new air filter and fuel filter as well, since it is all apart anyways.
This thread might help you with part numbers and so on..or if you got stuck anywhere along the line.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...ooler-egr-cooler-service-pdf-files-notes.html

A link of where I get my filters: You can use the Raycor brand, since that is the manufacturer for Motorcraft and they are a bit cheaper.
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/ford-6-0-liter-turbo-diesel-truck-filters.aspx
 

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Yes you have to suck that oil out of the resevoir, make sure you fill it back up before reassembly. Myself and alot of others are using rotella t6. Not sure about the 0w-40.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
haven't had much time in the last few days to work on it, but got a chance yesterday. the screen in the oil valley was damaged. so good thing I am doing the cooler rebuild.

Now when I took the cooler apart one of the o-ring (around the egr port) was seized to the housing and of course the housing for the egr port broke. So getting a new egr housing from ford today for it. Stupid that you need to purchase the who egr port kit.

I am thinking while I am in here to do an STC Fitting update and stand pipes and dummy plugs since it seems I have done every other update on it, and I dont like to open things up again over a few dollars that could be done now.

I have heard though that the 04 does not need the last 3 updates, but yet ford lists them for 04-07.. so a bit confused on that one.
 

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If your icp sensor is located on the right front valve cover, you need those updates. Late 04'.

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Ok here's the deal. The late 04 is when they started changing the hpo system. Late 04's have the old style hpop but the new style hpo rails with the standpipes and dummy plugs. The 04 trucks however do not have the stc fitting so you don't have to worry about that. One way to make sure is to see if your hpop sticks straight up through the hpop cover. If it doesn't than you don't need the stc fitting. If it does than you do need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
okay, finally put it all back together yesterday / last night, got enough time to complete it :nod: new seal on the hpop cover, new oil cooler, egr delete kit (includes bypass and the up pipe). turbo drain back update, turbo oil line update, pressure regulator update.

4 stiches in my brother in-laws finger cause someone he sliced it taking the fuel filter out when the housing was off the truck :hehe:

new rotella 15-40 oil and purolator oil filter, fuel filter, and air cleaner.

I went to put water in it since I was going to a rad flush and get rid of the oil in the cooling system from the egr cooler leaking, and found on the front of the block just under the banjo bolt for the fuel line it blew out the frost plug and is puking oily/water as I fill it. So anyone know what size frost plug that is so I can get one.

and it seems we continue to fix this thing... starting to think it might not have been such a good deal after all...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
figured purolator is better then frame, and only running them for a couple of thousand k to do an oil change on it. wanted to clean any of the gunk out of it.

Now for the frost/freeze plug that blew out anyone know what size that one is? I may have to go back to ford to get one tomorrow.

and anyone know where I can get a coolant filter kit local in Edmonton? didnt want to order one from online since then I have to wait for it etc and figured it would be easier to just put it in now.
 

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Fram oil filters in the solid orange box are the same as motorcraft and racor. They are all made by racor which is the manufacturer for the OEM filters. Trust me you do. It want to run any filters other than OEM in this truck it WILL come back to haunt you. Saving $5-$10 now may cost you $1000 later all because of a cheap azz filter.
 
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