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Electrical Ogre
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I just put ADs and one AE in my truck. It is now making an awful noise unless it is in gear and has a load on it (i.e. not on decel) it also hardly runs unless it has a 10k in it and it has very little power. Here is a video of the noise https://studentcuw-my.sharepoint.com/:f:/g/personal/timothy_steinke_cuw_edu/Eg1rPX_vWWROq0_HpdoILfMBIz0qFP-2cfCDWu--Qjegeg?e=ISIg0a
ADs and AE(Long lead) are split shot injectors. If you are putting those injectors into an OBS truck it will likely need tuning to run correctly, if at all possible. OBS trucks use AA or AO single shot injectors.
 

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ADs and AE(Long lead) are split shot injectors. If you are putting those injectors into an OBS truck it will likely need tuning to run correctly, if at all possible. OBS trucks use AA or AO single shot injectors.
Right. I have tunes from Tony Wildman coming but the sound the truck was making. Is that a broken flex plate? The sound it is making is the big concern now.
 

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I was taking off my hpop and the gear bolt fell to the floor with the ratchet. I can’t find the washer anywhere. Is there really no way it can fall into the block? Is there a way to get it out? Am I screwed? Where do I get a new washer? TIA

F350 4x4 ‘95 400+k miles


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I’m no expert on the 7.3 and can not comment on the what can or can not access what internally, but I’ve worked on an awful lot of engines.

Worst fear is dropping hardware internally when you have something opened up.

I hate to say it, but find that washer. Fish around with magnets, what ever you can.

We've had a few $$$ rewards over the years for who ever finds what ever was dropped. Sometimes several feet away from what you were working on... washer, nuts, bushings etc like to roll..... and roll they do.
 

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Hey, at least you’re working alone (I’m assuming...)

You don't have the owner, the GM, the shop manager, the chief mech, and five other senior guys all crowded around you as you peer into it with a flashlight and mirror all saying... “Ooooh. You shouldn’t have done that.”

they can bounce back up too. Into greasy oily spots and stick...

Good luck.
 

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Hi all. Request for help identifying various components (dotted red in pic) attached to the driver's inner fender well. Noob here getting a closer look at fuel lines in anticipation of efuel/WVO. Appears to be a manifold, an unused connector, and a sensor ? Truck is a 97 zf5 4x4. As a California truck and smog exempt, what factory smog/emissions components can be deleted/removed from under the hood? Priority is reliability with this truck. thanks!
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the one on the left is the vacuum senor the one in the middle is part of the vacuum system, there is a block that is missing. the one on the right i don't know without checking a truck but looks like it could be part of the trailer wiring
 

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New to the Forum, and I read this entire thread. what a ride that was. Recently got the urge to find my dream OBS. So I sold my 2015 6.7 and bought a 1997 7.3, I definitely paid too much for the truck but that is my problem not yours.

My new to me OBS has the following work done to it:

-Custom 3 link front suspension with a king pin Dana 60 solid axle swap. Lead Foot Off Road revalved the King shocks and rebuilt the him joints about 18 months ago.
-Rear suspension was reworked with the SKY Manufacturing 2016 Ford Super Duty spring conversion kit. Longer springs give the truck a smoother rider and greater towing capacity. Bilstein rear shocks.
-35” BFG TA KO2’s, less than a year old, on 17” rims.
-38 gallon rear fuel tank was added, so with stock front tank, total fuel capacity is approximately 54 gallons.
-Beans Diesel E-Fuel kit.
-New Rear ABS (RABS) valve.
-John Wood built E40D trans with billet torque convertor and ATS Trans Commander.
-Motor modifications done by Onsite Diesel (Stanton, CA).
-Full Force 180/30 injectors.
-Irate Diesel T4 turbo kit with new up pipes.
-S364.5 SXE Turbo with boost fooler.
-CSF Intercooler with Irate Diesel plenums.
-Hydra chip with Jelibuilt tunes.
-Dieselsite coolant filter, water pump and 203* thermostat.
-2 Interstate (Costco) batteries are 3 months old.
-Custom console in dash houses a Pioneer double DIN Blue Tooth stereo and triple gauge set - EGT, trans temp and boost.
-Custom stereo with front/rear speakers, amp and sub behind rear seat. It’s loud.
-Foam in front seats replaced.
-Custom fabricated wheel to wheel step bars.
-New body mounts.

I am super pleased with the truck, it has everything done to it that i would eventually do to a stock truck. Well, 3 days after I bought it i was getting onto the freeway and must have over revved it because it started shaking and smoking. got it towed home for closer inspection. Oil in header, turbo, and exhaust. white smoke and rough running at all RPMs. 1st i checked the turbo, no play in the compressor, still looks brand new.
Opened the passenger side valve cover for UVCH inspection, and low and behold cylinder #6 pushrod just sitting there mangled.

would it be safe to just throw in a motorcraft replacement pushrod and call it good? should I be looking for further damage? I will probably open the glowplug on that cylinder and crank the motor by hand to clear the unburnt fuel, and avoid hydrolock. what should I do with all the oil/fuel from the header to the exhaust tip? just run it and let it clear up on its own?

thanks in advance for any advice!!
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Nice truck. You are on the right track. Take a look at the lifter making sure it is in it's bore correctly. Make sure the pushrod cup on the rocker arm is not damaged. Replace pushrod with motorcraft, international, or quality aftermarket, roll engine over by hand at least two complete revolutions with glow plug out while watching the pushrod/rocker movement. If everything looks and moves right button everything up and start it. The oil in the exhaust system will burn out, just wouldn't want to be be behind it until it does.
 

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Nice truck. You are on the right track. Take a look at the lifter making sure it is in it's bore correctly. Make sure the pushrod cup on the rocker arm is not damaged. Replace pushrod with motorcraft, international, or quality aftermarket, roll engine over by hand at least two complete revolutions with glow plug out while watching the pushrod/rocker movement. If everything looks and moves right button everything up and start it. The oil in the exhaust system will burn out, just wouldn't want to be be behind it until it does.
Thanks for the help. If I did my research right, I should clock my harmonic balancer to 11oclock before installing pushrods/rocker arms and lifters correct?

Also, what are your thoughts on replacing valve springs with new? Did I bend my push rod because these old springs are starting to float? Last thing I need is a bent valve or piston damage because these old springs are starting to fail.
 

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You don't need to clock the balancer. There was something that caused it to bend so check everything closely. I've seen a few 7.3s bend a pushrod, checked everything, put it back together and still running like nothing happened thousands of miles later.
 
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