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For anyone who has feared doing the dreaded down pipe (DP) install here is a step by step guide to help you.:thumb:
NOTE: This was done on the ground due to a 09 SD on the rack.
Tools You WILL Need:
3/8" Ratchet
Sawzaw
15MM Shallow Socket
11MM Deep Socket
13MM Wrench
Two Foot Pry Bar
Hammer
( Air Hammer Makes Things Easier)
If available Die Grinder with Cutting Wheel & Carbite Bit
Top Side View
Bottom View
Start By Removing The Vaccum Reserve
What It Looks Like Do This BEFORE Removal Of The Dipstick
Place It Out Of The Way( Disconnect The Vac Line If You Have To)
Remove The T-Bolt Clamp With A 11MM Deep Socket OR Wrench & Place It Out Of The Way, You May have to Pry It Off With a Screw Driver
Apply Slight Pressure To The Top Of The Down Pipe For It To Fall Enough In Order To Cut It Without Hitting The Firewall
Remove The Dipsitck Bracket Off The Cylinder Head With a 13MM Wrench. NOTE: The Dipstick Will Come Out From The Bottom. Place A Rag Over The Bottom Part Of The Dipsitck To Prevent Metal Shavings From Entering The Tranny While Cutting The Old DP
Begin Cutting The DP Just After The Bend From The Top
After You Are About Half Way Through The DP Remove The Two 15MM Bolts From The Resinator In Order To Continue Cutting The DP
When You Are Done Cutting The Bottom Section Off This Is What You Should Be Left With
Once You Pull The Top Part Out This Is What It Looks Like
From The Bottom Cut Away The Heat Sheild To Expose The Fire Wall Seam. Use A Die Grinder OR Tin Snips
Once Finished Take A Pry Bar & Remove The Remainder Of The Sheild On The Fire Wall, Its Only Held On By Two Small Pop Rivets
Once The Heat Sheild IS Removed You Will See The Fire Wall Seam, Use A Die Grinder & Cut The Seam Into Sections To Make It Easier To Bend, Do This Using A Die Grinder Or If You Can A Sawzaw. After That Use An Air Hammer Or Pry Bar & Hammer And Proceed To Bend The Seam DOWN NOT UP! I Used An Air Hammer With a Soild Shaft NOTE: The Section In The Upper Right Hand Corner Was Pressed Flat As Well
I Use Black Spray Paint To Coat The Seam So It Won't Rust
Bolt The T-Bolt Clamp On To The DP & Turbo Housing & Leave It SOMEWHAT Loose In Order To Position Top Part So I Doesn't Hit The Tranny Or The Body. Then Install The Bottom Part & Bolt It Up To The Rest Of You Exhaust.NOTE:Feed The Part Of The DP With The Flange From The Top & The Second Part From The Bottom.Do This BEFORE You Reinstall The Dipstick
Once You Have Everything In Place Tighten All You Clamps And Recheck To Make Sure Nothing Will Interfear With Your New DP. Then Reinstall Your Dipstick, Vaccum Canister &
NOTE: This was done on the ground due to a 09 SD on the rack.
Tools You WILL Need:
3/8" Ratchet
Sawzaw
15MM Shallow Socket
11MM Deep Socket
13MM Wrench
Two Foot Pry Bar
Hammer
( Air Hammer Makes Things Easier)
If available Die Grinder with Cutting Wheel & Carbite Bit

Top Side View

Bottom View

Start By Removing The Vaccum Reserve

What It Looks Like Do This BEFORE Removal Of The Dipstick

Place It Out Of The Way( Disconnect The Vac Line If You Have To)

Remove The T-Bolt Clamp With A 11MM Deep Socket OR Wrench & Place It Out Of The Way, You May have to Pry It Off With a Screw Driver

Apply Slight Pressure To The Top Of The Down Pipe For It To Fall Enough In Order To Cut It Without Hitting The Firewall

Remove The Dipsitck Bracket Off The Cylinder Head With a 13MM Wrench. NOTE: The Dipstick Will Come Out From The Bottom. Place A Rag Over The Bottom Part Of The Dipsitck To Prevent Metal Shavings From Entering The Tranny While Cutting The Old DP

Begin Cutting The DP Just After The Bend From The Top

After You Are About Half Way Through The DP Remove The Two 15MM Bolts From The Resinator In Order To Continue Cutting The DP

When You Are Done Cutting The Bottom Section Off This Is What You Should Be Left With

Once You Pull The Top Part Out This Is What It Looks Like

From The Bottom Cut Away The Heat Sheild To Expose The Fire Wall Seam. Use A Die Grinder OR Tin Snips

Once Finished Take A Pry Bar & Remove The Remainder Of The Sheild On The Fire Wall, Its Only Held On By Two Small Pop Rivets

Once The Heat Sheild IS Removed You Will See The Fire Wall Seam, Use A Die Grinder & Cut The Seam Into Sections To Make It Easier To Bend, Do This Using A Die Grinder Or If You Can A Sawzaw. After That Use An Air Hammer Or Pry Bar & Hammer And Proceed To Bend The Seam DOWN NOT UP! I Used An Air Hammer With a Soild Shaft NOTE: The Section In The Upper Right Hand Corner Was Pressed Flat As Well

I Use Black Spray Paint To Coat The Seam So It Won't Rust

Bolt The T-Bolt Clamp On To The DP & Turbo Housing & Leave It SOMEWHAT Loose In Order To Position Top Part So I Doesn't Hit The Tranny Or The Body. Then Install The Bottom Part & Bolt It Up To The Rest Of You Exhaust.NOTE:Feed The Part Of The DP With The Flange From The Top & The Second Part From The Bottom.Do This BEFORE You Reinstall The Dipstick

Once You Have Everything In Place Tighten All You Clamps And Recheck To Make Sure Nothing Will Interfear With Your New DP. Then Reinstall Your Dipstick, Vaccum Canister &
Hope This Will Help You With The Install Of Your New Down Pipe:thumb:
Thanks To Mike Monnet For letting Me Use His Truck For This Thread
Jake White
Thanks To Mike Monnet For letting Me Use His Truck For This Thread
Jake White