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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For anyone who has feared doing the dreaded down pipe (DP) install here is a step by step guide to help you.:thumb:

NOTE: This was done on the ground due to a 09 SD on the rack.

Tools You WILL Need:

3/8" Ratchet
Sawzaw
15MM Shallow Socket
11MM Deep Socket
13MM Wrench
Two Foot Pry Bar
Hammer
( Air Hammer Makes Things Easier)
If available Die Grinder with Cutting Wheel & Carbite Bit


Top Side View


Bottom View


Start By Removing The Vaccum Reserve


What It Looks Like Do This BEFORE Removal Of The Dipstick


Place It Out Of The Way( Disconnect The Vac Line If You Have To)


Remove The T-Bolt Clamp With A 11MM Deep Socket OR Wrench & Place It Out Of The Way, You May have to Pry It Off With a Screw Driver


Apply Slight Pressure To The Top Of The Down Pipe For It To Fall Enough In Order To Cut It Without Hitting The Firewall


Remove The Dipsitck Bracket Off The Cylinder Head With a 13MM Wrench. NOTE: The Dipstick Will Come Out From The Bottom. Place A Rag Over The Bottom Part Of The Dipsitck To Prevent Metal Shavings From Entering The Tranny While Cutting The Old DP


Begin Cutting The DP Just After The Bend From The Top


After You Are About Half Way Through The DP Remove The Two 15MM Bolts From The Resinator In Order To Continue Cutting The DP


When You Are Done Cutting The Bottom Section Off This Is What You Should Be Left With


Once You Pull The Top Part Out This Is What It Looks Like


From The Bottom Cut Away The Heat Sheild To Expose The Fire Wall Seam. Use A Die Grinder OR Tin Snips


Once Finished Take A Pry Bar & Remove The Remainder Of The Sheild On The Fire Wall, Its Only Held On By Two Small Pop Rivets


Once The Heat Sheild IS Removed You Will See The Fire Wall Seam, Use A Die Grinder & Cut The Seam Into Sections To Make It Easier To Bend, Do This Using A Die Grinder Or If You Can A Sawzaw. After That Use An Air Hammer Or Pry Bar & Hammer And Proceed To Bend The Seam DOWN NOT UP! I Used An Air Hammer With a Soild Shaft NOTE: The Section In The Upper Right Hand Corner Was Pressed Flat As Well


I Use Black Spray Paint To Coat The Seam So It Won't Rust


Bolt The T-Bolt Clamp On To The DP & Turbo Housing & Leave It SOMEWHAT Loose In Order To Position Top Part So I Doesn't Hit The Tranny Or The Body. Then Install The Bottom Part & Bolt It Up To The Rest Of You Exhaust.NOTE:Feed The Part Of The DP With The Flange From The Top & The Second Part From The Bottom.Do This BEFORE You Reinstall The Dipstick


Once You Have Everything In Place Tighten All You Clamps And Recheck To Make Sure Nothing Will Interfear With Your New DP. Then Reinstall Your Dipstick, Vaccum Canister &

Hope This Will Help You With The Install Of Your New Down Pipe:thumb:

Thanks To Mike Monnet For letting Me Use His Truck For This Thread:)

Jake White
 
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Great writeup Jake, and great photos !! I look forward to tackling this job in the next week or two. Thanks for the AWESOME deal on the NEW diamond eye exhaust system !

Jeff
 

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Yeah, great write up and pics!!! I'm thinking of getting this exhaust.......you sell them? I'm thinking either just the down pipe or 4" turbo back with cat and muffler.

Any idea of hp and torque after this mod. I like to know if its worth the trouble and money. any dyno #'s for a full exhaust too??
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mikenj: PM Sent
 

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Hillbilly Deluxe
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I got mine in without removing dipstick and all that other stuff... i did have to trim a little off the firewall though...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You can but it makes is easier with cutting the pipe this is for the first time DIY guys.
 

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You can but it makes is easier with cutting the pipe this is for the first time DIY guys.
Oh i cut mine in like 4 pieces!!!! :nod: I just didnt really remove anything to get it out or in.....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thats really good...I bought a down pipe from craigslist but its for a 99 7.3 would it fit my 95 7.3?
If it's 4" no 3" almost won't clear. Maybe if you had a body lift but the 99-03 DPs are made differently:( I have one if your looking for one
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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i think it took like an hr maybe?? i did the entire exhaust from the turbo back all at the same time. Probably took me like 3hrs for the entire turbo back install.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok Thanks I was just curious
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This help anyone by chance?
 

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Im really tempted to try and install my kit tomorrow..........
 

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helped me cause im getting ready to do this myself great info and pics for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good to Hear!!:thumb:
 

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Been wanting to do my Dually for years but have always heard horror stories about beating the firewall in to get the new pipe in.:dunno:
 

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I made one cut at the top of the down pipe close to the bend, then used a porta power to push the firewall back. It wasn't all too bad. If I had made my cut a little better the old down pipe would have fallen right out, but it needed a little persuasion because it was hanging up on the up-pipe. Porta power works great but you will need a small piece of 2x4 to use as a spacer so the porta power will have enough "throw" to make the room needed.
 

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Good to Hear!!:thumb:
yea thanks for this write up and i was wonderin how does your 96 Dually Run and such cause you have everything done to it like i want to do to my 95 Dually
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Runs like a CHAMP! My D66 took a dump it went back to Beans to see what happened. Pretty sure the bearings let go. Don't know why it only had 20k on it.
 
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