ok understand it now here is my prob a p0299, my VGT at cold start 85% till I drive and get rpm's to 1700 ish then it drops to normal rang drives great plenty of power and works great until i stop and let it idle then the VGT slowly go's up again (15 - 60 sec) to 85% ? I shut it off and with KOEO map 14.07 ebp 14.17 baro 14.21. then I start it KOER VGT starts out at 50-60 ish and go's back up to 85% and the map 14.6-.9 ebp 15.0-17.0 and baro sold 14.21 , now if I gun it the VGT drops to 40-60 ish and then go's back up to 85% ? it runs GREAT no issues but for the p0299 and engine light comes back on. any help would be welcome.
normal MAP & EBP at idle
hi anyone know what the normal MAP & EBP at idle should be ?
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and now after 5-10 minuets the VGT started walking down all the way to 15% , map ebp and baro stayed the same .
Normal MAP for me @ idle is ~14-15 and EBP is usually ~3-5psi higher than MAP.
Are you sure it's not your PCM cycling the vanes at idle? Does it go from 85% and sweep to 15% and repeat the cycle?
With the vanes trying to move and no sensor moving, sounds like a possible turbo sticking.
-jokester
Are you sure it's not your PCM cycling the vanes at idle? Does it go from 85% and sweep to 15% and repeat the cycle?
With the vanes trying to move and no sensor moving, sounds like a possible turbo sticking.
-jokester
I don't know, I'm brand new to the 6.0 world maybe 2 weeks , does the PCM cycle the VGT at idle ? . Now I've only seen it at idle go from 85% to 15% and back up to 85% one time. but It will bark when I rev it in park to 3000 rpmNormal MAP for me @ idle is ~14-15 and EBP is usually ~3-5psi higher than MAP.
Are you sure it's not your PCM cycling the vanes at idle? Does it go from 85% and sweep to 15% and repeat the cycle?
With the vanes trying to move and no sensor moving, sounds like a possible turbo sticking.
-jokester
P0299 can be a nightmare code that can come from MANY things:
- turbo, mainly a stuck VGT unison ring (but this issue COMMONLY sets other codes as well)
- a leak on the intake side between the turbo and the intake (including the charge air cooler itself)
- a biased EBP sensor, plugged tube, or wiring (an 03 that has the inferred EBP flash will not throw this code for a bad EBP sensor)
- damaged MAP sensor or hose
- an exhaust leak between the exhaust manifold and turbo up-pipe to the turbo
- a restricted exhaust or restricted (plugged up) intake
- ICP issues
- IPR issues
- high pressure oil issue
- low side oil volume issue
- FICM concerns (especially low voltage)
- failing injectors
- low battery voltage or alternator issue
- low fuel pressure
- can even be triggered by a P0405 EGR valve failure
- even a bad MAF sensor can cause this code and turbo control issues
Sometimes the P0299 can be a false code:
Yeah this one can be fun, I first was thinking sticky turbo but the VGT seems to have no prob moving while running or at Idle , I'm leaning towards something is tell it it to move to the 15% or 85% , no performance issues at all and no other codes. my KOEO map 14.07 ebp 14.17 baro 14.21 and KOER map 14.6-.9 ebp 15.0-17.0 and baro sold 14.21 seem right no bouncing around so I think I need to look at sensors and like you said maybe leaks and start ringing wires **** theres a fun day lol, yes Ron is a wealth of info very sad he's gone.Sometimes the P0299 can be a false code:
The PCM controls the VGT solenoid to maintain a certain EBP at idle. On my 06 at hot idle that is 2.4 psi gauge and I believe this is typical for most of the years. When the truck is cold that is increased to help with warmup, I believe up into the mid 3.0 to almost 4.0. Haven't checked it in a while.
Most of the scanner show the EBP in absolute pressure so you have to add the atmospheric pressure to the gauge pressure. The atmospheric pressure varies with elevation, and is indicated by the Baro reading. Yours is 14.2 so add 2.4 which is ~16.6psi absolute EBP.
In Forscan you can actually pull up a PID that shows the EBP desired and show the EBP in gauge so it's a little more intuitive.
Most of the scanner show the EBP in absolute pressure so you have to add the atmospheric pressure to the gauge pressure. The atmospheric pressure varies with elevation, and is indicated by the Baro reading. Yours is 14.2 so add 2.4 which is ~16.6psi absolute EBP.
In Forscan you can actually pull up a PID that shows the EBP desired and show the EBP in gauge so it's a little more intuitive.
Thanks, yes I have forscan and have the PIDS for the three MAP EBP & BARO but I didn't know about the EBP desired, I'll put it on there tomorrow or maybe later to night 😆 I got the ICPThe PCM controls the VGT solenoid to maintain a certain EBP at idle. On my 06 at hot idle that is 2.4 psi gauge and I believe this is typical for most of the years. When the truck is cold that is increased to help with warmup, I believe up into the mid 3.0 to almost 4.0. Haven't checked it in a while.
Most of the scanner show the EBP in absolute pressure so you have to add the atmospheric pressure to the gauge pressure. The atmospheric pressure varies with elevation, and is indicated by the Baro reading. Yours is 14.2 so add 2.4 which is ~16.6psi absolute EBP.
In Forscan you can actually pull up a PID that shows the EBP desired and show the EBP in gauge so it's a little more intuitive.
psi , ICP v and IPR duty cyc on there to and all three are in spec according to DieselTechRon R.I.P. , except for maybe one thing the ICP psi at cold idle is up around 700-800 psi which maybe a bit to high ? I think it should be 550 -650 psi what do you think ?
Hey bismic just wanted to say THANK YOU for the Help man.Sometimes the P0299 can be a false code:
The PCM controls the VGT solenoid to maintain a certain EBP at idle. On my 06 at hot idle that is 2.4 psi gauge and I believe this is typical for most of the years. When the truck is cold that is increased to help with warmup, I believe up into the mid 3.0 to almost 4.0. Haven't checked it in a while.
Most of the scanner show the EBP in absolute pressure so you have to add the atmospheric pressure to the gauge pressure. The atmospheric pressure varies with elevation, and is indicated by the Baro reading. Yours is 14.2 so add 2.4 which is ~16.6psi absolute EBP.
In Forscan you can actually pull up a PID that shows the EBP desired and show the EBP in gauge so it's a little more intuitive.
The PCM will raise the ICP when cold. I believe there is an ICP desired you can pull up in Forscan as well. I believe mine around 580-600psi once warmed up.Thanks, yes I have forscan and have the PIDS for the three MAP EBP & BARO but I didn't know about the EBP desired, I'll put it on there tomorrow or maybe later to night 😆 I got the ICP
psi , ICP v and IPR duty cyc on there to and all three are in spec according to DieselTechRon R.I.P. , except for maybe one thing the ICP psi at cold idle is up around 700-800 psi which maybe a bit to high ? I think it should be 550 -650 psi what do you think ?
Up date I took off the turbo actuator looked it over seals looked good screen in tacked no chunks in it I blow it out and manually pushed it in and let it spring back a few times and YES broke the clips off it lol , cleared the P0299 now this morning dead cold start VGT % 84-85% back and forth drove it 15 miles to get the DIY leak test set up started hot at 85% touched the gas and it went straight to 81-83 at idle and runs around 40-60% light footed BUT the good news is the code has not come back YET fingers crossed. U'all have a great memorial weekend.
Without knowing the tune, or lack of, it is quite possible a reflash of the ECU will get you more typical results. I have seen this on occasion, noting that it appeared that the turbo was not responding correctly.
The first time I saw this I took the turbo off and checked/cleaned the plunger, unison ring, and vanes. The only thing I noticed was the unison ring was worn more than expected, but was moving properly. The next time it happened was years later with a Stage 3 turbo. That is when I tried a tune/ecu reflash. Over the next 7 years I found that one of my tunes was prone to occasionally needing to be reflashed to cure a similar issue, including turbo under-performance. I have no clue why the ECU needed a reboot, but it always fixed the vane wandering.
Now onto an issue that most of you don't face, frozen (as in cold) vanes. It does happen in the northern prairies and the ECU will try to command vane movement, but it just won't budge until it warms up and unfreezes. The same can happen to the EBP sensor, Boost sensor, and tubes with moisture or crud in them. I have even had my speedometer freeze! So, looking at it another way, 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic oil will help to keep the turbo working properly, especially if there was any oil residue getting past the seals in the turbo.
The first time I saw this I took the turbo off and checked/cleaned the plunger, unison ring, and vanes. The only thing I noticed was the unison ring was worn more than expected, but was moving properly. The next time it happened was years later with a Stage 3 turbo. That is when I tried a tune/ecu reflash. Over the next 7 years I found that one of my tunes was prone to occasionally needing to be reflashed to cure a similar issue, including turbo under-performance. I have no clue why the ECU needed a reboot, but it always fixed the vane wandering.
Now onto an issue that most of you don't face, frozen (as in cold) vanes. It does happen in the northern prairies and the ECU will try to command vane movement, but it just won't budge until it warms up and unfreezes. The same can happen to the EBP sensor, Boost sensor, and tubes with moisture or crud in them. I have even had my speedometer freeze! So, looking at it another way, 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic oil will help to keep the turbo working properly, especially if there was any oil residue getting past the seals in the turbo.
Yeah I got 0w40 Rotella T6 in it now and in the first 2 months of having the truck she got 4 oil changes with 3 filter changes lol so I'd think my engine is crud free. My plan is to have a heated garage for the truck this winter and to keep it idling when outside.Without knowing the tune, or lack of, it is quite possible a reflash of the ECU will get you more typical results. I have seen this on occasion, noting that it appeared that the turbo was not responding correctly.
The first time I saw this I took the turbo off and checked/cleaned the plunger, unison ring, and vanes. The only thing I noticed was the unison ring was worn more than expected, but was moving properly. The next time it happened was years later with a Stage 3 turbo. That is when I tried a tune/ecu reflash. Over the next 7 years I found that one of my tunes was prone to occasionally needing to be reflashed to cure a similar issue, including turbo under-performance. I have no clue why the ECU needed a reboot, but it always fixed the vane wandering.
Now onto an issue that most of you don't face, frozen (as in cold) vanes. It does happen in the northern prairies and the ECU will try to command vane movement, but it just won't budge until it warms up and unfreezes. The same can happen to the EBP sensor, Boost sensor, and tubes with moisture or crud in them. I have even had my speedometer freeze! So, looking at it another way, 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic oil will help to keep the turbo working properly, especially if there was any oil residue getting past the seals in the turbo.
No need to keep it idling. The engine will stay warm for hours in the cold. Long idling is the worst thing for these trucks.Yeah I got 0w40 Rotella T6 in it now and in the first 2 months of having the truck she got 4 oil changes with 3 filter changes lol so I'd think my engine is crud free. My plan is to have a heated garage for the truck this winter and to keep it idling when outside.
That photo was taken about 3 minutes after starting and how long is too long? Also Isn't there a debate about long period idling being harmful or not at normal idle or with the high idle mod?No need to keep it idling. The engine will stay warm for hours in the cold. Long idling is the worst thing for these trucks.
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