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Discussion Starter #1
2005 F-250 Lariat, with a stock rear end. I think I have a pinion carrier bearing or pinion bearing going out. I am getting a roaring or "whump" noise at certain speeds on the highway. I am an okay shade tree mechanic, but have never set up a rear end. How big of a job is this.
 

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Get the rear end up on jack stands -- put the tranny in neutral -- get under and see if there is slack in the pinion bearings -- the see if there is excessive rotational slack
try the center driveshaft bearing for slack also

Usually a pinion bearing will change noise when getting on and off the throttle a little -- the carrier bearing may roar all the time or only when going up or down hill

Check for exhaust rubbing the frame or hanger damage -- exhaust can make some noise like that also
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Been needing to check the exhaust hangar for about 1 week anyway. I can hear some clanking around in the rear when I go over a bump.
How big of a job is it if take the rearend down, replace the bearings and races and put it back up with the same shims in place now?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What is a good range for cost of a rebuild. I love working on the old girl, but I really can't afford the "experience" of having to buy 2 sets of parts for the rear end because i screwed the first one up. I have a press and dial indicator, but I have never set up a rear end before.

Experience is something you need about 10 mins before you get it, or so I have heard and learned.

I need the truck in action and not dead in my driveway.
 

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Have you checked to see if there is oil in the diff?
get the rear up on jack stands and check the pinion for looseness -- also rotate the pinion back and forth to see how much slack there is

OK, I admit as a professional of some years, this guy does some things I would yell at him over -- but he does show the teardown and assembly pretty well
you could do the job with the axle in the truck, but it is more difficult

 

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I just replaced the pinion bearings in the '04. The Yukon bearing kit was ~$450, if that gives you any idea what to expect. The kit included the carrier bearings as well.

Like @Hydro said though, a little diagnostics should be done before you condemn anything. Could be the swing bearing in the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All, thanks for the replies on my other post re Diff Bearings. It appears the rear was hungry and has starting eating my pinion bearing. I don't think I have torn the ring and pinion up yet (no crunching or clanking yet). I have a dial indicator and a press. However, I don't know if I am up for Diff setup for a rebuild. Several shops recommended I just get one out a junkyard bolt it up and rock and roll. If it goes south I will have one out of my truck that I can either rebuild or drop off at the shop without loosing the truck. What I am trying to figure out now is how much the thing weighs, as I have a great price on one close by, I was wondering if would overload a steal trailer receiver hitch rack on the back of the wife's Explorer or I am going to have to use my little trailer. What do you all think.
 

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Most times those are rated at 500lb but I wouldn't try to max. Plus the overhang. It may be worth trying to barrow a small trailer or see if you can fold the rear seats down and throw two thick pads/old blankets ve trying to strap it down to the hitch cargo basket.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I may be p*$&%^& the mods off (hope not) with new posts. However, I have just found that without the right title, people just want look. I asked about the weight of the rear end so I would know how and with what to pick it up from the salvage yard. However, I am looking for you all to help bash me about a bit. I bought a rear end this afternoon for $500 (10.5, 3.73 Locker). It has 120K on it but comes with a 90 day warranty. I am able to inspect before I drive off with it. I figure I would pull the cover and see if there is a bunch of trash/chunks of gear in the housing. If there is normal metal on the magnet and no play at the flange I should be good??? Y'all got any other pearls of wisdom to look for? I know it is a crap shoot. However, the rebuild on mine is a minimum $1085 just for the bearing, race and seal kit, if I did not tear up the gears. I had to role the dice for $600?????
 

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Honestly the dif is the only thing to be super concerned about. My 1999 still have the original dif set up, original wheel bearings on each side, original brake calipers, brake lines and even the parking brake (the inside the rotor type). I feel you're probably just fine by draining the fluid and running with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Rgr. I spoke with some guys where I grew up that rebuild rear ends. They have trouble getting good bearings. Even most of the reputable manufacturers outsource parts of the bearing assemblies. They are telling me even with good parts, they are getting rear ends back that they have to redo because of excessive noise. I am probably just rationalizing purchasing the used one.
 

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the sterling and really all the big 3 have bulletproof rear ends and it is hard to abuse them out of the ordinary
so 120k is nothing to worry about IMO as long as it passes your cover off visual and has a 90 day I would be ok with it myself ,, 500 is top dollar for that axle used IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the replies. I searched car-part (great website for used parts if you guys have never used it) and LKQ. As well as call all the local guys within 100 miles of New Orleans. $450 was the lowest price (it had a 30 day warranty). I figured 60 more days of "diagnosis" was worth $50 bucks. I love learning new skills working on cars. I have an old Corvette that is all over my garage. I would like to say I set up a rear end, but the bearing and race set is $200 if I only use one (which is a big if having never done it before). Plug and play makes sense if the gamble pays off, as I have an oil cooler that has to be backflushed asap as well as other odds and ends on a 15 year old truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bought the used rear and picking up today. Any pearls of wisdom on how to change this dude. Just looking to benefit from others mistakes...er wisdom and experience.
 

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Are you changing the whole assembly of just the gears?

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If you didn’t at the pick up site, pop the cover and inspect carefully. It’s a PITA to do the install and then find it’s got issues.
 

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Also it would be helpful to keep this in one of the other two or three threads you started about the situation. That way everyone gets the backstory on your situation and makes it easier to offer help/suggestions etc. Personally if you have a lift that would be easiest if not I got some 12ton harbor freight jackstands and I think like 4 2x12s cut into blocks to stack under the jack stands. Then I put my floor jack under the rear dif and lifted the truck and slid the jack stands under the frame rails enough to keep the rear lifted but the front tires on the ground. then kind of tested my placement for balance etc.

I did the same when my friend and I installed my level kit.

*Some feel you should remove both leaf springs at the same time, I did once at a time to help me handle the weight of the axel. Its gonna be hard with only one person but ratchet straps to hold one side in place while you do the other side acts like a second/third pair of hands. Also please spend the money on new u bolts/hardware and new dif fluid. Super cheap insurance for 10+ yr old hardware etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the replies. It is a full rear end replacement. Seemed more economical as the rear was around $500 v. having a shop set up just the bearings and such for nearly $1100 (if the gears were not worn out). The used rear has around 100K on it (I found one with only 72K) but it was sold before I could get to that yard. The yard I am getting the rear from encourage me to take the cover off when I get there so as not to have the hassle of returning it to them (they give a 90day warranty). Definitely going with new fluid (I am going to use the best that I can find (likely royal purple). Don't know about new u-bolts. I got to get this done tomorrow, and doubt I will be able to find good quality bolts today or tomorrow. Justin, your plan was sort of what I envisioned. I do have to try to wrestle this thing in myself. Also, on the thread continuation thing. I struggle with whether to continue a previous thread or start a new one. A lot of people including myself don't necessarily go back to old threads that we did not have much interest in. However, a new spin/angle maybe exactly something that we need to know. I should have done a little bit better background in explaining however.
 

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Also it would be helpful to keep this in one of the other two or three threads you started about the situation. That way everyone gets the backstory on your situation and makes it easier to offer help/suggestions etc. Personally if you have a lift that would be easiest if not I got some 12ton harbor freight jackstands and I think like 4 2x12s cut into blocks to stack under the jack stands. Then I put my floor jack under the rear dif and lifted the truck and slid the jack stands under the frame rails enough to keep the rear lifted but the front tires on the ground. then kind of tested my placement for balance etc.

I did the same when my friend and I installed my level kit.

*Some feel you should remove both leaf springs at the same time, I did once at a time to help me handle the weight of the axel. Its gonna be hard with only one person but ratchet straps to hold one side in place while you do the other side acts like a second/third pair of hands. Also please spend the money on new u bolts/hardware and new dif fluid. Super cheap insurance for 10+ yr old hardware etc.
Just like what Justin said...Replacing the whole thing isn't that bad if you have at least 2 floor jacks and a couple of ratchet straps. You can lift and maneuver it with the jacks and use the ratcher straps to hold things in place or help pull/hold it at the correct angle.

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