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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been having intermittent problems with the WTS over the past 2 years or so. Seemed when it was hot outside the WTS would not come on and truck would not start. Would tap the pcm and it would start most of the time. Recently we replaced the the transmission (ZF-6) and replaced the motor mounts. Now there is no WTS at all. Took the pcm out and put it in a buddies truck and WTS fired right up. Thinking it is a wiring issue. Any help would be appreciated. Also the brake booster has been leaking, so curious if that has something to do with it since all the wiring harness connections are directly under the booster
 

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One think i know will knock the WTS (and the whole system) out in the OBS is the fuel bowl heater. That still a thing in the e99s? Is it just the WTS light or is the GPR also not actuating? Would help narrow things down a bit. Also if you recently jammed a bunch of ish around i'd check and make sure you grounds are kosher, those can cause lots of intermittent gremlins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One think i know will knock the WTS (and the whole system) out in the OBS is the fuel bowl heater. That still a thing in the e99s? Is it just the WTS light or is the GPR also not actuating? Would help narrow things down a bit. Also if you recently jammed a bunch of ish around i'd check and make sure you grounds are kosher, those can cause lots of intermittent gremlins.
Fuel bowl heater is good, it isn’t shorting out and popping the #30 fuse. And there is nothing, so I’d figure the GPR is not actuating as well. No fuel either. I just wanted to see if there were any other things before I start trying to chase wires
 

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#1 Reason is going to be a Blown Fuse (don't just give them a "look", check with a meter or light)

#2 Reason is a shorted sensor (most often the EBPS) that is drawing-down the 5v reference line. Unplug the 42-pin connector (big square one over the dr side valvecover) and see if the WTS returns with it unplugged and goes away when plugged-in.

No WTS = no start, no fuel pump, no GPR....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
#1 Reason is going to be a Blown Fuse (don't just give them a "look", check with a meter or light)

#2 Reason is a shorted sensor (most often the EBPS) that is drawing-down the 5v reference line. Unplug the 42-pin connector (big square one over the dr side valvecover) and see if the WTS returns with it unplugged and goes away when plugged-in.

No WTS = no start, no fuel pump, no GPR....
Sure enough, I pulled that fuse like 3 times to make sure it wasn’t popped and it wasn’t, so I couldn’t figure out how to test voltage (new to this electronic stuff) and I just decided to try a new fuse and boom, everything worked as it should, all the lights came on, tuner worked, and fired up after a few tries. Still curious why it wouldn’t work sometimes before this. I’d imagine it was just the fuse not working properly especially when it was hot outside?
 

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Oh Good! ;)

So when you say "that fuse", are you talking about fuse #30? (if so, go and unplug the Fuel Heater element, white connector at the bottom of the filter housing, and leave it unplugged)

Look carefully at any fuse, the side with the Amp rating on it, and you'll see a little square opening above each sides leg. With a meter, or a light, you can probe every fuses side for power when installed. Power on one side and not the other means the fuse is Blown and sometimes it's not obvious to the naked eye...
 

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glad to hear its working!

No WTS = no start, no fuel pump, no GPR....
Yup, why i was asking if it was just the light or what. From memory (at least on the OBS) all of the power lines for those are tied together but wanted to rule out something unplugged.

Look carefully at any fuse, the side with the Amp rating on it, and you'll see a little square opening above each sides leg. With a meter, or a light, you can probe every fuses side for power when installed. Power on one side and not the other means the fuse is Blown and sometimes it's not obvious to the naked eye...
I'll add too that if you voltage probe across the fuse, anything that's more than a few volts will be suspect. That means one side has a significantly (different) voltage than the other and that's likely due to a bad or going fuse. Same thing as ohming it out but you don't have to pull it.
 
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