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I have a 2000 e350 7.3 powerstroke.
Last week it died at 70 mph and will not restart. I have checked all the fuses (All good both Underhood and under dash) swapped the Relays around changed the cps. Hot wired the fuel pump (it works).
Unplugged the ebp sensor. Towed to dealer they hooked up computer and had no communication and they are at a loss and suggest I take it elsewhere because they dont want to guess and throw parts at it.
So no wts, no coms, no fuel pump power, no start cranks fast all stock no chip.
Any ideas???
 

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When my '01 F350 did that it was the PCM.
 

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If you have no WTS light, your PCM is not running. Before putting a new one in, double check that the fuse is good. More often than not, this fuse blows because of a shorted fuel bowl heater and cuts power to the PCM


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If you have no WTS light, your PCM is not running. Before putting a new one in, double check that the fuse is good. More often than not, this fuse blows because of a shorted fuel bowl heater and cuts power to the PCM


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Yes I checked that out and the fuse was good.
 

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The dealership said they can't fix it?

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They are really small in a remote area and didnt feel they should use their limited resources to troubleshoot it.
Im good with that because with their labor rate that could really add up fast and it is a 20 year old vehicle
 

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They are really small in a remote area and didnt feel they should use their limited resources to troubleshoot it.
Im good with that because with their labor rate that could really add up fast and it is a 20 year old vehicle
Oh... I thought you meant the Ford dealership. FORD should have the fancy equipment to diagnose.

From what little I know, of the wts isn't on then the pcm isn't working. If the fuse is good then I am guessing that you need a new pcm. The pcm has some code on it (something like EZ46Q8) so you may need a compatible one. It might be easier to have yours rebuilt.

Someone who knows more should jump in on this.

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Oh... I thought you meant the Ford dealership. FORD should have the fancy equipment to diagnose.

From what little I know, of the wts isn't on then the pcm isn't working. If the fuse is good then I am guessing that you need a new pcm. The pcm has some code on it (something like EZ46Q8) so you may need a compatible one. It might be easier to have yours rebuilt.

Someone who knows more should jump in on this.

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It was a ford dealership but when they hooked up their fancy equipment it wouldn't communicate Which points to a pcm issue.
 

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. Towed to dealer they hooked up computer and had no communication and they are at a loss and suggest I take it elsewhere because they dont want to guess and throw parts at it.
So no wts, no coms, no fuel pump power, no start cranks fast all stock no chip.
Any ideas???
A FORD Dealership told you to "take it elsewhere because they dont want to guess"???

Come ON,,, that makes No Sense!

First, I can't tell you how many times we see people who all are Sure they "checked all fuses and they're OK", only to come back saying it was a Bad Fuse. So, how did you "check" them? Because a Good Look often isn't Good Enough. You need to be using a meter to confirm that both the Fuse and the connection it makes in the fusebox are actually good (sometimes we see where a tap-a-fuse device was used at one point and it spread the connector open to accommodate it's extra size, causing a poor connection). In the Vast Majority of cases this is about Power not getting to the PCM itself because a bad fuse, connection, plug, ground, or some other connection.

The next most likely cause is a bad sensor that causes the 5v reference line to drop too low for the PCM to boot-up. Most often it is the EBP sensor, but it can be others too. I would first start by unplugging the EBPS (in a van it's easier that the whole Engine Harness) and see if the WTS returns. If not, next is to open the Big Black Square connector over the Dr Side valvecover (42-pin). This will disconnect All Engine Sensors to see if one of them is the cause.

Again, I'm not sure what's going on with your "dealership", there's something up there. And Again, I'm not saying you couldn't have a PCM but rather that there are more likely causes to check first. You might have to go as far as to pull the PCM's and probe the connectors power pins for 12v.
 

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A FORD Dealership told you to "take it elsewhere because they dont want to guess"???

Come ON,,, that makes No Sense!

First, I can't tell you how many times we see people who all are Sure they "checked all fuses and they're OK", only to come back saying it was a Bad Fuse. So, how did you "check" them? Because a Good Look often isn't Good Enough. You need to be using a meter to confirm that both the Fuse and the connection it makes in the fusebox are actually good (sometimes we see where a tap-a-fuse device was used at one point and it spread the connector open to accommodate it's extra size, causing a poor connection). In the Vast Majority of cases this is about Power not getting to the PCM itself because a bad fuse, connection, plug, ground, or some other connection.

The next most likely cause is a bad sensor that causes the 5v reference line to drop too low for the PCM to boot-up. Most often it is the EBP sensor, but it can be others too. I would first start by unplugging the EBPS (in a van it's easier that the whole Engine Harness) and see if the WTS returns. If not, next is to open the Big Black Square connector over the Dr Side valvecover (42-pin). This will disconnect All Engine Sensors to see if one of them is the cause.

Again, I'm not sure what's going on with your "dealership", there's something up there. And Again, I'm not saying you couldn't have a PCM but rather that there are more likely causes to check first. You might have to go as far as to pull the PCM's and probe the connectors power pins for 12v.
The fuses were checked with a meter.
The ebp sensor was unplugged.
The 42 pin will be my next step
Thanks
 

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unplug the fuel bowl heater and check the fuse (don't know the number off hand) that powers both the fuel heater element AND the pcm.
 

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A FORD Dealership told you to "take it elsewhere because they dont want to guess"???

Come ON,,, that makes No Sense!

First, I can't tell you how many times we see people who all are Sure they "checked all fuses and they're OK", only to come back saying it was a Bad Fuse. So, how did you "check" them? Because a Good Look often isn't Good Enough. You need to be using a meter to confirm that both the Fuse and the connection it makes in the fusebox are actually good (sometimes we see where a tap-a-fuse device was used at one point and it spread the connector open to accommodate it's extra size, causing a poor connection). In the Vast Majority of cases this is about Power not getting to the PCM itself because a bad fuse, connection, plug, ground, or some other connection.

The next most likely cause is a bad sensor that causes the 5v reference line to drop too low for the PCM to boot-up. Most often it is the EBP sensor, but it can be others too. I would first start by unplugging the EBPS (in a van it's easier that the whole Engine Harness) and see if the WTS returns. If not, next is to open the Big Black Square connector over the Dr Side valvecover (42-pin). This will disconnect All Engine Sensors to see if one of them is the cause.

Again, I'm not sure what's going on with your "dealership", there's something up there. And Again, I'm not saying you couldn't have a PCM but rather that there are more likely causes to check first. You might have to go as far as to pull the PCM's and probe the connectors power pins for 12v.
Maybe the stealership didn't have any one old enough to have worked on the 7.3. the mechanic would need to be around 40 give or take. The newer ones probably can't do anything without the computer telling them what to do. Otherwise, ford should be able to test the PCM.

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Had a similar issue with my '99 f250. Croaked in GA. Would turn over but no "spark". Towed to a shop, diagnosed the next day(a sunday no less) as a bad injector module(IDM?). Replaced with a used module the next day and voila, ran like a champ. Beat it back to FL and relaunched my trip to Boston and back a few days later without a hitch. Not bad for a 21 yr old truck. Now to get the dead IDM repaired for a back up so I will not be stranded again. Good luck. BTW, some tow truck companies are ford certified and can be pretty good at fixing their(and your) trucks. Good luck.
 

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Had a similar issue with my '99 f250. Croaked in GA. Would turn over but no "spark". Towed to a shop, diagnosed the next day(a sunday no less) as a bad injector module(IDM?). Replaced with a used module the next day and voila, ran like a champ. Beat it back to FL and relaunched my trip to Boston and back a few days later without a hitch. Not bad for a 21 yr old truck. Now to get the dead IDM repaired for a back up so I will not be stranded again. Good luck. BTW, some tow truck companies are ford certified and can be pretty good at fixing their(and your) trucks. Good luck.
A bad IDM won't cause a no WTS light and no-com though. This is most certainly an issue with the PCM or power to the PCM. I'd check the PCM connection itself and see if it might have gotten wet or something.

Funny side story. A guy hired me to go and troubleshoot why a POS auction bought 7.3 cab and chassis wouldn't start. His "mechanic" said it would run on ether (OMG please don't) but wouldn't fire. First thing I did was plug my simple OBD scanner in and there was no-comm. I went to start checking fuses under the dash and happened to glance down behind the parking brake mechanism and low and behold...no PCM! That'll do it right there. Of course that doesn't just happen so it's not relevant to the OP but it made me laugh!
 
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