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Went to start my truck this morning and it wouldnt start. There is no wait to start light but it cranks just fine. I did pull a 30 amp fuse to test my off road lights but replaced it right away. Any ideas whats going on
 

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The lack of a WTS light is an indication the PCM isn't running, (it's Never gonna start without it). This time of year, as it gets colder, lots of people have their fuel heater come on for the first time since last Winter. It gets rotted through over the summer and shorts. This blows fuse #30 that also supplies power to your computer. If that's what you find, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the filter housing before you replace the fuse. The fuel heater is something most people don't end-up needing, so don't worry about it for now you change replace it later if you want.

Other than that, it's still most likely going to be a fuse. Check them All (esp 30, 19, 22) Twice! It's easy sometimes to overlook a blown fuse ;)
 

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Why is there no sticky on this?

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So if I unplug it replace the fuse and plug it back i I should be good to go? Any picture on what that plug looks like? Or where to find it
 

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So if I unplug it replace the fuse and plug it back i I should be good to go? Any picture on what that plug looks like? Or where to find it
No, no, no,,, you can't plug it back in...

It's shorted, that's why the fuse blows. But, you probably don't need it working anyway. Does it get in the low single digits (F) where you are?

Look at the plug at the bottom of the fuel bowl in this pic;
 

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No WTS when trying to restart after engine died, crank but no start up.

The lack of a WTS light is an indication the PCM isn't running, (it's Never gonna start without it). This time of year, as it gets colder, lots of people have their fuel heater come on for the first time since last Winter. It gets rotted through over the summer and shorts. This blows fuse #30 that also supplies power to your computer. If that's what you find, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the filter housing before you replace the fuse. The fuel heater is something most people don't end-up needing, so don't worry about it for now you change replace it later if you want.

Other than that, it's still most likely going to be a fuse. Check them All (esp 30, 19, 22) Twice! It's easy sometimes to overlook a blown fuse ;)
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. :please: We did this and it started right up!! It was however the 30 amp fuse for the PCM power relay/Fuel line heater/Glow Plug Controller that had blown. We will be replacing the fuel bowl heater though as winter's here tend to get colder and our truck has a lot of miles. :D


95 F-250 PSD Stock...for now.
 

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Or just unplug the heater and leave it.
 

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I did notice that the wire I unplugged had a decent cut in it. I am wondering if that shorted/grounded out and caused the fuse to blow. ??

We do travel to colder places, so I am thinking I will want to get it working again.
 

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Probably not, the insulation tends to get brittle and crack over age but, without touching ground somewhere it's not a short. In most cases, the element "rots" in the water that can collect in the bottom and short there.

You would have to be traveling to some VERY cold places to actually need it though. I doubt anywhere in the US (except Alaska) it's necessary. That being said, they're cheap & easy enough to replace. I'd do it too, but might wait 'till the next filter change no matter what time of year it was ;)
 

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The lack of a WTS light is an indication the PCM isn't running, (it's Never gonna start without it). This time of year, as it gets colder, lots of people have their fuel heater come on for the first time since last Winter. It gets rotted through over the summer and shorts. This blows fuse #30 that also supplies power to your computer. If that's what you find, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the filter housing before you replace the fuse. The fuel heater is something most people don't end-up needing, so don't worry about it for now you change replace it later if you want.

Other than that, it's still most likely going to be a fuse. Check them All (esp 30, 19, 22) Twice! It's easy sometimes to overlook a blown fuse ;)
I checked all my fuses with my multi meter and couldn't find a single one that was blown. Everything that was said makes perfect sense for the scenario that I was in last night; it was the first somewhat cold night of the year, went to start the truck (it had been sitting for 2 years not running or moving when I bought it, we got her going again) and it did its normal starting routine, WTS light came on, went off, I cranked it for a few seconds but it wouldn't start, even though it wanted to. Turned the key off, waited a minute, tried again and the exact same thing, WTS light came on, went off, I cranked it for a few seconds but it wouldn't start, even though it wanted to. Turned the key off again, waited a minute, tried again, no WTS light, left the key in that position for the normal glow plug time and tried to crank it but nothing. I did hear a faint electrical type humming in the background, I'm thinking maybe fuel pump priming up?, but with no WTS light and no attempt by the engine to crank that wouldn't matter anyways... I worked on these trucks when I was younger with my grandpa all the time but this is my first solo venture into rebuilding one, I've done pretty good so far but this one has me stumped especially after reading a couple of forums very similar.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I love this truck, want her running again so I can hear the turbo a'whistlin through the stacks
 

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I would recheck the fuses (one may have blown between starting attempts). Don't waste your time leaving the plugs on and trying to start without a WTS. If the PCM isn't running, neither is the GPs nor the Fuel Pump.

If the fuses are all good (look in your Owners Manual for those associated w/PCM) then next unplug the engine sensors by disconnection the large square Black connector over the Drivers side Valvecover and see if the WTS returns.
 

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I did notice that the wire I unplugged had a decent cut in it. I am wondering if that shorted/grounded out and caused the fuse to blow. ??



We do travel to colder places, so I am thinking I will want to get it working again.


Only if it would have touched a good ground. If you don’t see anything close that caused the cut and it’s not shielded wiring I’ll agree it’s just weathered and a crack.


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I had a no wts light issue. It turned out to be the fuse block itself. A soldered connection inside for the fuse had broke. If fuse is good but no wts light, this likely the problem.
 

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No wait to start light this morning on my truck, outdoor temp is about 5degrees Fahrenheit, cranked over and started but with more hesitation than normal but then again it is kinda cool out today. If PCM isn’t working would it not even crank over or would I just have no glow plugs?
 

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If you have no WTS (and we're talking about the same thing here, right? It also sometimes called the "Glow Plug Light") it's most often a sign that the PCM isn't booted-up and running. If you have no WTS, and it starts, then Your PCM IS running ;) (no PCM = No Start).

If you're not used to Cold temps, the best strategy is to turn the key On, and Leave it ON (ignoring the "glow plug light" timing off), for like 90 seconds and then starting. There is No Relationship between that light and glow plug operation.

But, no WTS and an engine that starts, sounds like there's a problem with the light itself...
 

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If you have no WTS (and we're talking about the same thing here, right? It also sometimes called the "Glow Plug Light") it's most often a sign that the PCM isn't booted-up and running. If you have no WTS, and it starts, then Your PCM IS running ;) (no PCM = No Start).

If you're not used to Cold temps, the best strategy is to turn the key On, and Leave it ON (ignoring the "glow plug light" timing off), for like 90 seconds and then starting. There is No Relationship between that light and glow plug operation.

But, no WTS and an engine that starts, sounds like there's a problem with the light itself...
Yes we are talking about the same light, on my 2001 the light actually says “WAIT TO START” but on my 2002 there is just a yellow light that looks like a pigs tail. The day before while my daughter was driving it she said the check engine light came on but went off a minute later. Haven’t checked codes to see what it was but last night I drove it and the wait to start light came on as normal and it ran like normal and no check engine light. I plugged it in last night and this morning (again temp in the single digits) my daughter drove it to school and everything worked as normal. Perhaps it has to do with the fact that a few days prior to this i tried starting it for the first time in almost 2 weeks and the batteries were about dead and I had to jump it from my other 7.3. Otherwise I think you are right, it was just a problem with the light itself.
 

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I would recheck the fuses (one may have blown between starting attempts). Don't waste your time leaving the plugs on and trying to start without a WTS. If the PCM isn't running, neither is the GPs nor the Fuel Pump.

If the fuses are all good (look in your Owners Manual for those associated w/PCM) then next unplug the engine sensors by disconnection the large square Black connector over the Drivers side Valvecover and see if the WTS returns.
I unplugged the box over the vavle cover and my light came back on and fuel pump started working what do I need to look for next
 

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Chances are, one of your sensors is shorted internally and drawing-down that 5v reference that the PCM uses. The most likely sensor to do this is the EBP sensor, all you need to do is to simply unplug that sensor and see if the WTS returns (with the 42pin connector reconnected). If not, you can continue to unplug sensors until you find the culprit.

If none of your sensors are the reason that the WTS disappears with the 42pin connected then next you want to look for a chafed wire going to one of the sensors. Some years are more to chafing wires than others, post the year if you need help finding a chafed wire.
 

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The lack of a WTS light is an indication the PCM isn't running, (it's Never gonna start without it). This time of year, as it gets colder, lots of people have their fuel heater come on for the first time since last Winter. It gets rotted through over the summer and shorts. This blows fuse #30 that also supplies power to your computer. If that's what you find, unplug the heater element at the bottom of the filter housing before you replace the fuse. The fuel heater is something most people don't end-up needing, so don't worry about it for now you change replace it later if you want.

Other than that, it's still most likely going to be a fuse. Check them All (esp 30, 19, 22) Twice! It's easy sometimes to overlook a blown fuse ;)
At least you are 100% rte I had this very problem uunplugged the float bowl heater it was 20% this morning in tn. I haul cars for a living. Thank you for the awesome information. God bless...
 
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