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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2003 F350 6.0L completely stock with 115k miles on it with no upgrades and no tuner. I have had intermittent turbo boost. Now no turbo boost and no power. Finally died and i changed the fuel pump, no help. I brought it to the dealership and the tech changed the FCIM PCM and # 5 injector and it ran not so good. So, I brought it back and he said " a wire was loose on the FCIM and run 2 cans of seafoam for 2 tanks.". The truck barely made it home... So I tried to fix it myself, I'm not a mechanic (cabinet maker). We Did EGR Delete, no up pipe, new oil cooler, removed turbo and cleaned inside out, ring, vanes, applied a thin coat of never-sieze. Everything looked good inside with minor pitting on ring. Replace gaskets and o-rings that comes with the intake kit. However it ran the same after all that.
I brought it to a different dealership who wanted to change the turbo and said i had a code P0046.
The first dealership charged 2700$ and it didn't fix it completely , and this dealership wanted 2200$ to change the turbo. I decided to give up on the dealerships cause i didn't trust them.
I brought it to a Local mechanic . He said the problem was in my transmission.... go figure!. I know a good transmission mechanic and he said the problem was with the fan. He pulled all the codes on it and gave them to me.
here they are.

P0730
P2700
P0046
P0102
P0113
P0403
P01408
P0528
P0603

I know some are these are because of the EGR Delete. the Egr valve is unplugged not removed. Inside the valve it has never been greasy only sooty and dry. Removed VGT Solenoid and hooked 12 volts directly to it ( the cabinet makers way!)and it actuated quickly , wasn't sluggish. So I suspected the wire from the PCM. I Removed and replaced it. Still no power. I got a bright idea.... I ran wires from the VGT Solenoid and battery 12 volts inside cab. I went down the road and all i could get was 40 Mph. Then i Shot the juice to it! and it bogged down for an instant. I disconnected the wires and it got tons of power! then died back down after a couple of seconds. I could maintain boost by tapping the wires on and off !!!. I'm still at a loss to what is actually wrong . If you can figure it out then Ill buy the beer.
 

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I have a 2003 F350 6.0L completely stock with 115k miles on it with no upgrades and no tuner. I have had intermittent turbo boost. Now no turbo boost and no power. Finally died and i changed the fuel pump, no help. I brought it to the dealership and the tech changed the FCIM PCM and # 5 injector and it ran not so good. So, I brought it back and he said " a wire was loose on the FCIM and run 2 cans of seafoam for 2 tanks.". The truck barely made it home... So I tried to fix it myself, I'm not a mechanic (cabinet maker). We Did EGR Delete, no up pipe, new oil cooler, removed turbo and cleaned inside out, ring, vanes, applied a thin coat of never-sieze. Everything looked good inside with minor pitting on ring. Replace gaskets and o-rings that comes with the intake kit. However it ran the same after all that.
I brought it to a different dealership who wanted to change the turbo and said i had a code P0046.
The first dealership charged 2700$ and it didn't fix it completely , and this dealership wanted 2200$ to change the turbo. I decided to give up on the dealerships cause i didn't trust them.
I brought it to a Local mechanic . He said the problem was in my transmission.... go figure!. I know a good transmission mechanic and he said the problem was with the fan. He pulled all the codes on it and gave them to me.
here they are.

P0730
P2700
P0046
P0102
P0113
P0403
P01408
P0528
P0603

I know some are these are because of the EGR Delete. the Egr valve is unplugged not removed. Inside the valve it has never been greasy only sooty and dry. Removed VGT Solenoid and hooked 12 volts directly to it ( the cabinet makers way!)and it actuated quickly , wasn't sluggish. So I suspected the wire from the PCM. I Removed and replaced it. Still no power. I got a bright idea.... I ran wires from the VGT Solenoid and battery 12 volts inside cab. I went down the road and all i could get was 40 Mph. Then i Shot the juice to it! and it bogged down for an instant. I disconnected the wires and it got tons of power! then died back down after a couple of seconds. I could maintain boost by tapping the wires on and off !!!. I'm still at a loss to what is actually wrong . If you can figure it out then Ill buy the beer.
P0730: This code is definitely transmission related. There is no clear description of a single component failure associated with this code. It requires that you access the PCM to determine which PID set the code. (if I am reading the manual correctly)

P2700: Coast clutch (Transmission) stuck on or off

P0046: Turbo cahrger boost control solenoid circuit range/performance. This might have been set due to you applying 12 volts to the VGT.

P0102: MAF flow A circuit low.
Causes for this code:
MAF sensor disconnected
MAF circuit open to PCM
VPWR open to MAF sensor
PWR GND open to MAF sensor
MAF RTN circuit open to PCM
MAF circuit shorted to GND
Intake air leak (near MAF sensor)
A closed throttle indication (Throttle position sensor system)Damaged MAF sensor
If it is unplugged, plug it in. If it is plugged in replace it.

P0113: Intake Air Temp (IAT) sensor 1 circuit high (part of the MAF by the way)

P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Circuit
If you deleted the egr cooler, why do you not have the valve plugged in? It has nothing to control and can cause some issues. Plug it in.

P1408: EGR flow out of self-test range (non-mil).
This is another code generated by unplugging the EGR valve.

P0528: Fan speed sensor circuit no signal
Check the plug to the fan on the drivers side near the thermostat housing. Make sure it is plugged in all the way. Also check the wires all the way to the fan. The fan eats them on occasion....

P0603: Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
This code indicated that the powertrain control module (PCM) has experienced an internal memory concern. However, there are external items that can cause this DTC.
Possible causes:
Reprogramming
Battery terminal corrosion
KAPWR to PCM interrupt/open
Loose battery connection

If the KAPWR (keep alive power) is interrupted to the PCM because of a battery or PCM disconnect, this DTC can be generated pn the first power-up.
Since you indicate that this has indeed occurred, disregard this code.

Here is what I would do.
First, plug in the egr valve.
Then, buy a new MAF and replace it.
Check the rubber hose coming off the intake manifold leading to the MAP sensor for pinholes, cracking or signs of wear. Replace if necessary. Using an allen wrench (so you can't drop it in the intake manifold) poke the brass nipple on the intake to be sure that it is not clogged with soot.
Near your thermostat housing, you will see a sensor sitting on top of a stainless steel tube. Carefully remove the sensor and clean it with carb cleaner. Get a long piece of tie-wire and stick it down into that tube. The tube only goes to the exhaust manifold, so you can't hurt anything. Just poke it through to make sure it is not clogged. Give it a couple of shots of brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
Next, remove the battery terminals from both sides (+ and -) of BOTH batteries. Cross the battery connectors + to - and keep them that way for 10 minutes with the headlights on. This will clear the KAM.
After the 10 minutes has passed, uncross the cables and reconnect the batteries.
Undo your self-diagnostic wiring to the VGT.
Start the truck and see what happens. This should address most of the issues.
Then, you will need something to get any new (or repeat) codes, or have your friend scan them for you.
 

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NYC is correct! I had a 6 ohhh for 4 years till I traded up for the 7.3L. But any ways....So the vane soloniod, still could be damaged even if it works under 12vdc, and the MAP(just like NYC said) sensor, wires to, or hose, and nipple to the sensor being cracked is a great cause for your symtoms. That would be my first look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh I'm certain NYC is right, weekend before I can put his info to use.
But something you said made me remember that i had seen a split around the MAF (if im looking at the right thing). On top of black air intake duct rtight ?, anyways this duct mounts with a couple of bolts from the rear into brass fitting with a mount bolted to the ficm, and I saw a split exposing the brass. Is this the brass fitting ishould be worried about or checking ? I didn't think in was a leak at the time. Thanks for posting, and your help.
 

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No, unless it's cracked all the way thru the intake piping which is doubtful. I think your talking about the mounting bracket that holds the air intake piping in place. It's not uncommon for the molded nut inserts in that piece of piping to crack. I have never seen one crack/break bad enough to actually cause a leak in the intake piping.

Just go thru the steps NYC gave you and see what you come up with. He's right on track with the advice he gave you.
 

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Thats the MAF for sure on the air duct.
But look at the MAP sensor, the plug and wiring and hose connections to the MAP(on co-pilot side of truck is the location),...thats what tells the VVT(by sensing boost and pressure) where to place the vanes via the vane soloniod. If that Sensor is bad that equals no actuation of the vane soloniod and no boost and power trust me I know(try driving 20 miles without it like me). It also (I think!) helps tell the FICM how much fuel to ''dump'' in the engine by comparing it to the boost(air) the engine is getting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Justinmix,Thank you i will,sorry the typos on last post. I appreciate the help everyone just
Being able to ask and get good answers (unlike my dealers) gives confidence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've been carring out the instructions from NYC-350 and others and when i was checking the map sensor i noticed some debri caught on the little wires so i removed it to clean and noticed a small drop of water around the wire connections, gave it a blast of air and probley blew a half of a thimble of water out of if !!
I washed the motor a couple of times in the past, But this thing acted like it,had been sumerged.since most of the codes NYC explained were about the MAF sensor this looks like the problem. I'm going to get a new MAF Tomorrow, i guess washing the motor at the car wash is a big no no.
Thanks, just wanted to let you know what i found.
 

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Man, It still seems to me that there is an MAP sensor issue and/or VVT soloniod issue because of the MAP sensor. But those both throw codes. I hope Im wrong and that MAF sensor gets you driving your Powerstroke with Power agian!!

And remember if there was water in the MAP sensor plug, there might be corrosion now, if there is corrosion on your pins in the MAP harness, that creates a higher resistance. And if I Remember Right.....(I dont fix diesels anymore, I break them, haha. Lead Aircraft tech now) the MAP sensor only understands resistance(input/output). Might be a hint IDK.

Hope we helped!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tubro No Boost

Valvejob, Thank you for that input. But i am wondering if when you wrote you VVT Did you mean VGT ? And that water was inside the sensor not just in the harness connection. I checked the hose from the map and blew through the intake connection, it was clear.so was the sensor by the thermastat housing NYC mentioned. Going to get MAF today so I'll let you know. Thanks
 

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Sorry I meant VGT. So is the truck running again??!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just to let everyone know what happened , I brought the truck back to the transmission guy he dis some trouble shooting. He said he got it to boost when he used a donor pcm. My pcm no boost, his made boost.
I brought it back to the dealership armed with this imfo becaused i just paid them tp put a new one on, they kept it almost three weeks, they said they changed the wire pigtail to the vgt and got the truck boosting, and bye the way changed the pcm also !!.
I still have #4 injector droping out but it is running! And making boost. I am very thankful for you guys helping me with this problem. So i am wishing you all a very HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
THANK YOU, Fred
 

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I have a 2003 F350 6.0L completely stock with 115k miles on it with no upgrades and no tuner. I have had intermittent turbo boost. Now no turbo boost and no power. Finally died and i changed the fuel pump, no help. I brought it to the dealership and the tech changed the FCIM PCM and # 5 injector and it ran not so good. So, I brought it back and he said " a wire was loose on the FCIM and run 2 cans of seafoam for 2 tanks.". The truck barely made it home... So I tried to fix it myself, I'm not a mechanic (cabinet maker). We Did EGR Delete, no up pipe, new oil cooler, removed turbo and cleaned inside out, ring, vanes, applied a thin coat of never-sieze. Everything looked good inside with minor pitting on ring. Replace gaskets and o-rings that comes with the intake kit. However it ran the same after all that.
I brought it to a different dealership who wanted to change the turbo and said i had a code P0046.
The first dealership charged 2700$ and it didn't fix it completely , and this dealership wanted 2200$ to change the turbo. I decided to give up on the dealerships cause i didn't trust them.
I brought it to a Local mechanic . He said the problem was in my transmission.... go figure!. I know a good transmission mechanic and he said the problem was with the fan. He pulled all the codes on it and gave them to me.
here they are.

P0730
P2700
P0046
P0102
P0113
P0403
P01408
P0528
P0603

I know some are these are because of the EGR Delete. the Egr valve is unplugged not removed. Inside the valve it has never been greasy only sooty and dry. Removed VGT Solenoid and hooked 12 volts directly to it ( the cabinet makers way!)and it actuated quickly , wasn't sluggish. So I suspected the wire from the PCM. I Removed and replaced it. Still no power. I got a bright idea.... I ran wires from the VGT Solenoid and battery 12 volts inside cab. I went down the road and all i could get was 40 Mph. Then i Shot the juice to it! and it bogged down for an instant. I disconnected the wires and it got tons of power! then died back down after a couple of seconds. I could maintain boost by tapping the wires on and off !!!. I'm still at a loss to what is actually wrong . If you can figure it out then Ill buy the beer.
I am having the same problems on a 2006 F-450 6.0, Intermittent Boost problems. Truck has a total of 103,912. It had all the injectors changed at 102,861 miles and within 150 miles I had no turbo boost. Just changed the MAP Sensor and got no difference so I put the original back then after changing the VGT Solenoid I got a small about of boost (5psi) for about 100 miles. Now No Boost. I tapped the VGT Solenoid and got boost for another 84 miles. It's an all stock truck, , , any ideas on where to get any boost.
 
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