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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2006 6.0 I am having a p2262, p0113, p0470 codes I have no throttle response in reverse or drive but I do have throttle in park and nuetral I have replaced the MAP hose and cleaned out the brass nipple in the intake I have also cleaned out the exhaust pressure sensor previous owner replaced the IPR just before I bought the truck. It has been deleted, has a KC stage 3 turbo and a SCT tuner installed by previous owner after it idles for about 5 minutes the truck dies any clues as to why I have no throttle response and why it dies after idling for 5 minutes
 

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What is your fuel pressure?

Check EBP, MAP, BARO KOEO - they should all be within ~0.5psi of each other. Add VGT% and MAF to that list and then take it for a spin & report back some numbers for us.

For the dying part, add IPR%, ICPv, ICP, FICM MPower, FICM LPower, Fuel Pulse Width, FICM sync, Cam/Crank Sync and report back numbers.

-jokester
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What is your fuel pressure?

Check EBP, MAP, BARO KOEO - they should all be within ~0.5psi of each other. Add VGT% and MAF to that list and then take it for a spin & report back some numbers for us.

For the dying part, add IPR%, ICPv, ICP, FICM MPower, FICM LPower, Fuel Pulse Width, FICM sync, Cam/Crank Sync and report back numbers.

-jokester
I can try to get some numbers when I get off work but I can’t drive it the throttle won’t work as soon as I put it in gear I have a sct tuner that I can read numbers off of idk how to get the cam/crank sync either
 

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P2262 is primarily indicating a MAP sensor issue.

Not plugged in, hose plugged up, ripped hose, etc. Maybe even a bad sensor.

If MAP is not increasing with the engine ON vs. when the engine is off, then you have found your issue.
 

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For P0113:
Common to have this code if the MAF is disconnected with the key on.
IAT1 wiring are the outer two wires (one on each side) on the MAF connector.
P0113 (Common to have this code if the MAF is disconnected with the key on).
IAT1 wiring are the outer two wires (one on each side) on the MAF connector.

Post up what IAT1 reading is.
 

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And your battery voltage is WAAAAY too low. With voltage that low, it wouldn't surprise me that your logic voltage and/or FICM voltage is too low as well contributing to the no start.

-jokester
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am getting two new batteries tomorrow evening to see if that helps anything and I noticed that the plug for the ebp is chaffed so getting one of those tomorrow as well what should my ebp be when idling I can get it to start just have to hook jumper cables to it and when running voltage sits around 13 and the FICM is at 48
 

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That SCT will not read EBP correctly, so don't bother with that one -- gonna have to use ForScan to get a correct reading

Battery voltage while cranking that is less than 9 volts will mostly not start the engine -- 10 minimum would be better
FICM damage from cranking with a low battery has bit several owners, so keep those batteries charged
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That SCT will not read EBP correctly, so don't bother with that one -- gonna have to use ForScan to get a correct reading

Battery voltage while cranking that is less than 9 volts will mostly not start the engine -- 10 minimum would be better
FICM damage from cranking with a low battery has bit several owners, so keep those batteries charged
What exactly is ForScan and where can I get it and I guess it’s a good thing I have a spare FICM just in case I toasted mine
 

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Least expensive route is the BAFX adapter and a laptop
 

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You said yourself you had no boost ................... (ie MAP)

and yes, a battery that low will affect many things, some are expensive like the FICM.
 

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Wait til the battery issues are resolved. Clear codes and run the truck long enough to see what codes come back. It could be that the system voltage was so low that a few of the sensors started acting squirrelly.

The main thing though is that with those codes you are not going to have any "power".
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wait til the battery issues are resolved. Clear codes and run the truck long enough ti see what codes come back. It could be that the system voltage was so low that a few of the sensors started acting squirrelly.

The main thing though is that with those codes you are not going to have any "power".
I replaced the batteries forgot to reset the codes but batteries were out overnight so theoretically should have cleared them but I did get it running and my map is fluctuating around 14-15 but KOEO my ebp is still at 48 and running at 68 i unplug the sensor and engine tone changes and gets deeper. If things go according to plan I will be getting the pigtail to the eps and replacing it because it’s chaffed and gonna cut my exhaust and get the Downpipe hooked up to the exhaust properly previous owner never hooked it up when he changed the downpipe and it was left open right by the trans then welded the exhaust into one piece so it makes it nearly impossible to hook back up would that make a difference as well? The downpipe not being hooked up to the exhaust and just blowing right by the trans? Don’t mean to sound stupid but am just now getting into diesels
 

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Way back in post #9
"That SCT will not read EBP correctly, so don't bother with that one "
 

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I have a cheap Oriellys scanner will that read it correctly?
Lemme check my crystal ball, ...The outcome is unclear, try again later

Dunno dude, I don't have knowledge on every scanner out there -- we have several threads here that have discussed this problem on the EBP reading
But, ...most likely the answer is, No
ForScan and AE, along with Ford IDS will read correctly
I have used Torque Pro, it also reads correctly -- some of the others do not
None of the main name tuners read correct, as has been reported by members here
I have the SCT LiveWire -- it does not read EBP correctly -- sensor voltage calculation is incorrect -- is there a fix for this calculation ?
 
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