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97 F350 7.3 Automatic. Ran fine a couple days ago, no issues to note. Parked it, sat for a couple days and did get down to about 40 overnight here (which is colder than it has been recently).

Went outside to start it this morning (did not have the block heater plugged in). Wait to start light came on for 8-10 seconds, cranked strong when it went off, but no start. Did this about 10-12 times and then remembered some of these post I have seen on here with different sensors going out, and the questions you guys always ask the person with the issue .. soooo I started looking over the gauges while I was cranking.

Wait to start light comes on for 8-10 seconds every time. Oil pressure gauge builds while cranking, white smoke from the exhaust, and the tach is jumping with the cranks. Fuel filter is new as of a few hundred miles ago. PO says glow plugs and glow plug relay is new ... can't verify that. It does try to start once every few cycles of ~ key off, key on, WTS light, and crank~. This attempt to start is like one cylinder fires and then it dies.

Where do I start? Thanks in advance for any help! :dunno:
 

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Really hope I can get some idea where to start tonight. I'll try firing it when I get home, maybe the cold did it? If not, I'll try pulling the plug on the ICP???? like I've seen listed and see if it starts. Any other ideas?
 

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Got home and cranked it over and it fired up, ran for about a second and died. Cycled it again and it fired and ran just fine. Think maybe it was a combination of colder weather and not starting or running it for 3-4 days? Or is there a part that will cause intermittent starts? If I get no thoughts tonight, I'll try it again in the morning and see what it does and let you all know.
 

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Went out this morning .... it was in the 40's overnight and 55 when I started it. Cycled it, it cranked and did nothing. Cycled it again and it cranked and did nothing again but had a little but of white smoke this time. Cycled it again, pushed the gas twice, and it fired and ran for about 2 seconds and died. Cycled it again, held down the gas and it fired up and ran just fine. Drove it to work. Shut it off, started right back up.... ????

Any ideas? Fuel draining out after sitting over night maybe? Looking for any advice here! Thanks in advance!
 

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i am having the same problem if i figure it out will let you know
 

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First of all, good looking rig.Ive had problems like yours before and once it was the glow plug relay,and once was the cam sensor.Easy to see if it is the GPR using a volt meter.Check the wires going to the valve covers while someone mans the ignition key.Should be 12v going into relay big wire and 12v going out on smaller wires to valve covers.Even if the relay is new doesn't mean it's good.By what you described sounds like a relay or wire plug in issue
 

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I will check the GPR tomorrow. I was under the impression if I got a reading on the tach, it wasn't the CPS.. is that incorrect? I will check the GPR first and see what it is showing. Thanks for the feedback!
 

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Check ICP. ICP wont let it run if its bad, But if its good it will start, SOunds like a GPR.
OR CPS. Do u have a known good CPS?
 

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Ok, put the new GPR on and now it reads the right voltage and I can hear it clicking on, etc. But now that it is getting even colder overnight it is still not wanting to start real well. The glow plugs are only staying on 5-6 seconds every time. So I am having to cycle this thing through several times before the truck will start.

Is there a temp sensor or something that can be causing this? Where should I look next?
 

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Don't go by how long the WTS light is on to determine how long the glowplugs are active. The plugs will stay on for up to two minutes regardless of the WTS light. You can usually tell by your Voltage gauge when the plugs turn off. You can just sit and let them heat. Check your GPR to see what the voltage drop it has by placing the DVOM leads across the large terminals on the relay and reading the voltage (anything larger than 0.5V and the relay is bad. The plugs should be affected by the Engine Oil Temp sensor input, so you could look into that too. Cheers!
 

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The injectors in these trucks wear over time and will make cold starting impossible when it's cold. Mine have 284K and if you don't plug it in below 45 degrees, it isn't going to start. If you have 325K on original injectors, you're likely to need them rebuilt. Mine are gettting pulled next saturday and getting shipped off to rosewood for that very reason.
 

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I agree about the injectors going south after so many miles.If the gpr is working correctly, the problem maybe the plugins going to the glowplugs or the glowplugs themselves. I've never done it myself but I've read in here about checking the plugins at the valve covers looking for burnt pins when you pull them apart.If they look burnt, a new wire harness might be in order. Just an idea,might save on batteries or a starter.Good luck.
 

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have you checked your oil? If the oil is too low the hpop wont be able to fire the injectors
 

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Okay here I go. I have a 97 F-250 that the engine was working fine and then would not start. I followed just about every advice on this forum and still nothing. I was told that the injectors were shot including the HPOP, so a friend offered me a 96 PowerStroke and I put it in the truck. The replacement engine came off a working truck that was totaled in a wreck. I still have the crank no start problem. I changed out the CPS (3times), IPR, IPC, ECM and IDM with brand new items, not donors from the old engine. I checked continuity on all wiring and it is good all the way back to the IDM and ECM. I am getting white smoke coming out of the exhaust as it is being cranked, but still no start. I have changed out both batteries and installed a new starter, because I fried the old one. I had a old rancher come by and he told me the IPR was not getting signal. I checked fuse 22.
I am thinking this is a wiring problem because the same problem on my original engine is occuring on the replacement engine. It turns out the original engine is perfectly fine. I have ordered another ECM from NAPA because everybody is telling me that there is no signal being sent to sensors or information is not being received from sensors. I have tach reading while cranking, I have a wait to start light coming on and then going off as it should be, not that it really matters because I am in Texas and the weather has been over 90 degrees.
 

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try plugging it in i was having same problem every cold morning last night i plugged in was about 30 degrees last night start right up no problems.
 

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You can try this below as it will tell you if the oil temp sensor is interrupting your glow plug relay engaging or not. I would just do the below for 20 seconds and then try to start the truck and if it starts you will know that the oil temp sensor is bad or the wiring is messed up somewhere. If it still doesn't start it might be an hpop/icp/cps issue, but I doubt it if cold weather triggered all of this.

The EOT (engine oil temp) sensor is on the backside of the hpop reservoir and more towards the driver side.

How to bypass pcm for glowplug relay activation:

Unplug the Engine Oil Temperature sensor and turn the key to the run position. This will cause the PCM to close the glow plug relay for the maximum of two minutes. Check for voltage to and from the glow plug relay. The control voltage is supplied by the ignition switch and the PCM controls the ground based on EOT.
 
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