Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 05 f350 CCLB 4x4 6.0, the backstory is animal chewed a injector wire on the passengers side, I soldered it and taped it while waiting on the replacment harness. While doing this i inadvertently closed a valve on my coolant filter. I was towing in the 7k lb range on a gooseneck for about 10 miles. About 2 minutes from the house it started to miss. As I climed the hill near the house, it got really bad like several cylinders were missing. parked hood popped and coolant had " pressured" out on the line from the heater bypass valve on several injector plugs. I found the valve closed and opened it kicking myself. That week the new harness arrived. put it in and after a couple of attempts the truck fired and ran fine. drove it about 30 minutes later that week and it died throwing an IPR code.I removed and cleaned that. put it back in, truck cranked and died in 3 minutes or so. I'd cleared the code and it came back. Since the code came back I just replaced the IPR with a new one. I checked the FICM it is at 47.6V . I have not done a pressure test. I just ordered a Autoengunity with the ford enhanced bundle. All of these years my scantron 9580 has done what I need on this truck but it's reached it's limit with this. It has a code for IPR a code for the egr and one for the fan that will not reset when I try to clear the codes. Any advice is appreciated I plan on checking the plugs on the fan and the egr this weekend. The ficm plugs are snuggly in and both sides clipped, nothing looks bent as far as the pins go. It has a bulletproof egr cooler, ARP studs, blue spring update, and ofcourse the coolant filter. 213XXX miles just pulled the cab and replaced the y pipe and up pipe about 4k miles ago. This truck has always been great despite the problems most have, I replaced the studs and the EGR just because i had the cab off, it was not having any issues. I always ran fleetside coolant.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I had some time to unhhok some sensors, everything was all plugged in fine. After unhooking I looked at the codes I got: p0403, p0683,p2623, p0480, & p2285 (from unhooking the sesor). I didn't try to erase these. i'm waiting on the new scanner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
When you did the IPR, did you change the pigtail? Pull the EGR valve and inspect it, clean it, and inspect the connector. I don't think ordering a new scanner will help, as the pigtail is likely faulty on the IPR.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The EGR has about 1k miles on it. I had replaced it after cleaning the stock one multiple times and still getting a egr code. I will look at the IPR wiring this weekend if i get a chance, it "looked" good when I replaced the old one. Is there a good check to see if the wires are faulty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
if there is, I haven't performed it. My plastic was broken on it so it was obvious. I would just replace it anyways. It's only 30 dollars or so and is easy to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I hear that, I'm just afraid that with my other codes it's pointing at FICM, after the coolant leaking on an open wire.... I am going to look at it, there was a post in 2013 about doing a load test on the wires with a headlight highbeam... I can't quote it and i've had a few pints of brown ale so I'll have to go back and look at it again but I hear you on the wire man. I plan on checking it. Thanks for the help and anything else you can think of helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
I hear that, I'm just afraid that with my other codes it's pointing at FICM, after the coolant leaking on an open wire.... I am going to look at it, there was a post in 2013 about doing a load test on the wires with a headlight highbeam... I can't quote it and i've had a few pints of brown ale so I'll have to go back and look at it again but I hear you on the wire man. I plan on checking it. Thanks for the help and anything else you can think of helps.
Just out of curiosity, how would it point to the FICM?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,429 Posts
You can use one of the wedge base bulbs -- bend the wire "terminals" away from the glass and push the wires into the IPR socket

for something a little heavier use a 4411 bulb -- gives about 3 amp load
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just out of curiosity, how would it point to the FICM?
Now I can't swear it, my understaing is that the FICM regulates the IPR position to control the pressure from the HPOP going to the injectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can use one of the wedge base bulbs -- bend the wire "terminals" away from the glass and push the wires into the IPR socket

for something a little heavier use a 4411 bulb -- gives about 3 amp load
Thanks Hydro, I'll give this a try when I get into it next... I need it back on the road. It\s not my only mode of transportation but it is my only truck. I have things I need to pickup and drop off... frustrating when you are trying to chase problems like this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
Now I can't swear it, my understaing is that the FICM regulates the IPR position to control the pressure from the HPOP going to the injectors.
Mine has been that the FICM syncs with the PCM, and the ICP sensor sends it's actual pressure to the PCM. The PCM puts together the data and knows the desired ICP to then actuate the IPR to either attempt to increase or decrease the actual ICP to the desired ICP. But either way, a bad FICM that causes your truck to die should throw a code or exhibit other symptoms, like really hard starting no matter the temperature, and rough running and even small RPM fluctuations. Whenever troubleshooting a no start though, follow the codes. They tell a story and in this case, you have a circuit open on your IPR which needs to be repaired.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mine has been that the FICM syncs with the PCM, and the ICP sensor sends it's actual pressure to the PCM. The PCM puts together the data and knows the desired ICP to then actuate the IPR to either attempt to increase or decrease the actual ICP to the desired ICP. But either way, a bad FICM that causes your truck to die should throw a code or exhibit other symptoms, like really hard starting no matter the temperature, and rough running and even small RPM fluctuations. Whenever troubleshooting a no start though, follow the codes. They tell a story and in this case, you have a circuit open on your IPR which needs to be repaired.
Cool, thanks for poining me that way. I will definetly be looking at this when I have time to get back to the ipr wire. I guess the timing could just be a wierd coincidence to the leak. I did look at all the wires I unhooked to see if that was causing an open circuit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,429 Posts
The terminals in the IPR connector are easily damaged -- look inside them to see if the little "leaf" can still grip the male terminals in the valve coil
The same goes for the ICP sensor connector

You should have a code tho if the connection is lost
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,429 Posts
Are still using the factory vistronic cooling fan?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are still using the factory vistronic cooling fan?
Yes, the fan is a factory replacment. I had to replace it at around 180k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I might try to find time to pull the IPR wire out asap... the more I dig the more it sounds like this is just a snowball of things after replacing the fuel injector harness. i might have been to hasty replacing the original IPR, perhaps it was just the harness...It fired twice for no amount of time after I replaced the screen and seals on the original IPR. the code cleared (p2623) and it ran for about 15 minutes. fast forward through a few crank and immediatly dyings all of which put up the p2623 code and we are here...I appreciate the pointers guys, I feel like I can push forward before the AE gets here and look at the wires for damage. Do you guys know any common fail areas? the connector looked good when it was off and it locked on seemingly fine.
 

·
Compression Ignition Addict
Joined
·
10,212 Posts
You also need to look over the fan wiring and connector.

Edit - credit to Hydro for that suggestion!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,931 Posts
I might try to find time to pull the IPR wire out asap... the more I dig the more it sounds like this is just a snowball of things after replacing the fuel injector harness. i might have been to hasty replacing the original IPR, perhaps it was just the harness...It fired twice for no amount of time after I replaced the screen and seals on the original IPR. the code cleared (p2623) and it ran for about 15 minutes. fast forward through a few crank and immediatly dyings all of which put up the p2623 code and we are here...I appreciate the pointers guys, I feel like I can push forward before the AE gets here and look at the wires for damage. Do you guys know any common fail areas? the connector looked good when it was off and it locked on seemingly fine.
Look for where it might be broken where it rubs on anywhere hot. Make sure it has the heat shielding still on it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,429 Posts
Yeah, that fan harness is what I getting at -- it likes to rub thru on the fan shroud and then back at the engine where it is supposed to be tied

If the fan harness shorts out it will kill the engine

AE is a nice tool, but I would have recommended ForScan for your laptop -- just as nice and a lot less expense -- and the BAFX or ObdLink MX adapter
Let us know how well the AE works out -- I been thinking on getting it so I can be more helpful on the forum, but the cash is not there yet .
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top