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Discussion Starter #1
Ran perfect for a day after new alternator, batteries act real healthy, went to start it, all usual signs and noises were good. Crank, no start. No tach while cranking. Threw a new ford cps in. Still no tach on crank. Wait to start lght works as usual. Pump and the usual pressure breakover noise is good. Still no fire. 25 degrees F ambient.

Wet from layin in a puddle, greasy, frozen hands, bleeding and defeated I cursed it and drove the minivan in a snowstorm instead, lol

After two rounds of cranking a view under the hood revealed a few diesel smelling whisps of smoke from passenger side top of motor.

What’s my Next move?
 

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I thought I read that its normal for the 02 tach to not register during cranking? There have been times mine has taken a few seconds to register after it is running lol.

I would get a scanner setup going so you can see what is going on during no start.

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^^^^ absolutely correct, '02,3's and some '01's will not show cranking rpm (has to do with an electrical upgrade that changes how the CPS is read from the new, module, cluster).

As for "What’s my Next move?"

You've looked at some important stuff already (WTS-CPS-Fuel) but go over these basics again and if all that seems to check-out the next move is gonna be a scanner (now that there are good apps there's really no excuse for Not being able to scan yourself -> http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3l-general-discussion/1044057-ford-superduty-diagnosis-cheap.html)


My usual No Start -


WTS Light? - do you get it when you first roll-on the key? (shows the computer is running)

Do you see cranking rpm on the Tach? Do you have a spare CPS to try?

Is there fuel in the fuel bowl now? Does it refill after cranking? (open the drain lever to check) Look above the pass ft tire, you'll see a 3/8" metal tube, against the motor that ends there, it's the drain for the bowl (yellow lever you slide to the side). Get a cup, open the lever, drain the fuel bowl, look at the fuel, close the lever. Then, turn the key to the ON position (should hear the pump) for 15 secs. Drain the fuel bowl again, whaddya got?

Can you hear/feel the pump running (below the dr seat, against the framerail)

Could the fuel gauge be giving a bad reading? (Below 1/4 tank?)

Is it cranking fast enough? - it won't even TRY to start if cranking too slowly.

Is your truck "chipped"? If so, remove it as a Test.

You can unplug the ICP sensor, as a Test, so the PCM sets a default value for the IPR to run on (expect this to set a new "Low ICP" code, don't let that misdirect you after a scan).

Did you check the plug and sheet metal nut going to the IPR? That nut can vibrate off and allow the solenoid going over the valve to slide around. The wires going to the IPR can get brittle, crack, and short together. Make sure the plug & wires look in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, good info guys, make me feel better I guess knowing that the tach isnt supposed to move on my truck as far as it being something weird after the cps replacement.

I’ve got torque and forscan, and I’ll dive into it when I get back home.

Truck was not plugged-in. Glow plug relay? Or does the WTS light indicate that’s functioning?
 

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The WTS is just a "dumb timer", the plugs are ON when it's Off and, once warm, OFF when the WTS is On.

If everything else is as it should be, at 25F, your truck should still start without either plugging-in or a functioning GP system (without plugs, it's a hard start and a rough run, but it should Start). I would start there though, make sure the GPR is activated and passing good voltage at least -> http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/99-03-7-3l-general-discussion/121643-troubleshooting-gpr-gps.html

Next, connect your scanner and monitor ICP pressure, IPR%, cranking RPM, and System Voltage (that should tell you a Lot!)
 

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My guess is if you have the digital odometer, then then that is the newer cluster and you won't see cranking rpm on the tach? Anyone confirm that?

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That confirms that you won't see cranking RPM on the Tach (along with a Trans Temp Gauge in the cluster) but, in was during the '01 run that the mechanical OD's were eliminated so no '02's had them.

There was a major electrical change in the '01 MY where the Cluster took over many of the functions of the GEM (which was also eliminated) and, if there were more options, the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) was added My '02 has neither a Gem nor a VSM. Now that the Cluster was "interpreting data", instead of just reporting it, that Tach says idle.

It was actually too bad, the cranking RPM on the Tach was a good diagnostic tool for a functioning CPS...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Funny, swear I read every thread here that mentioned common no-run issues and how to fix it on the side of the road. I had a scanner right there but no tach had me under there instantly.

Never read here that my 16 year old truck was “too new” for that nice free quick diagnostic of the most common no-run issue of the most reliable Ford Diesel ever made, WTF LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Oh, and thinking back about the weather, it was more like 15-17 degrees and 8 the previous night.

Think Imma Amazon me the Stancor tonight regardless.
 

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Oh, and thinking back about the weather, it was more like 15-17 degrees and 8 the previous night.

Think Imma Amazon me the Stancor tonight regardless.
get a bottle of diesel911 and pour it into the fuel bowl and tank. even if you treat your fuel it may be a cause of bad fuel or water (ice)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like it's the glow plug relay, checked it last night and no output while energized. New Stancor arrives today. Another item to check off the bulletproofing list.

Crazy I lost an alternator and the GPR in the same week.
 

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Looks like it's the glow plug relay, checked it last night and no output while energized. New Stancor arrives today. Another item to check off the bulletproofing list.

Crazy I lost an alternator and the GPR in the same week.
Definitely let us know if it fixes it.

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, fired right up with the new Stancor (White Rodgers) GPR. Man that thing is massive compared to the Ford relay, lol.

Shoulda un-mounted the IAH relay, tightening the front hold-down nut was tight and slow with a wrench, and the relay body blocks getting a socket on it.

Well, I have a new CPS in it now too, oh well, threw the original back in the glove box.
 

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I have an 01 7.3 tool the hpop out and truck wouldn’t start I unplugged the icp still nothing, my ipr duty cycle goes to 98% when cranking so I thought that was my problem bought a new one still the same thing just cranks. Tried 3 different cps still nothing I don’t have a moving tach. The sticker on my cab door is December of 2000 but I manual swapped the truck with a 2002 or 2003 pcm so I’m not sure if it will move need helps ASAP sos thanks
 

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In an '01 it may or may not rise with cranking (but you really need a better "tools" to look at your engine than the Tach alone ;) ).


IF your Instrument Cluster has a Trans Temp Gauge and a Digital Odometer in it, then the Tach isn't going to move, no gauge and plastic "roll-over" numbers for the OD it should...
 

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Then, yes,, you should see a slight rise from the Tach needle as you crank it on the starter. You've changed the CPS a couple of times so I'm gonna assume One of those worked ;)

I just posted in your other thread, what are you using to scan your truck with? Read RPM from that first (along with the ICP/IPR/Voltage)
 

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I'm starting to get the feeling there's a Language Barrier here...

I can't make sense of your readings (plus you've chosen to Ignore a couple ;))

16X1000? 16,000psi???? another "not possible". I'm actually surprised ForScan would report 98% (the valves capability is limited to about 65% pulsed closed). Have you properly configured the app? -> Ford SuperDuty Diagnosis on the Cheap
 
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