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Discussion Starter #1
Which direction do I go.

My mother has a 96 Ford F-350 single wheel 2WD with a 7.3. She has not been driving it a lot recently, since November, so I had been telling her to drive it to town and back or at least start it a couple times a week. I’m sure that was not happening. The truck has 270k. She is the 2nd owner and bought it in July of 19.

One day 3-4 weeks ago she went out to start it and left it running 15-25 minutes. When she came out it was off and would not start.

When I came to check on it, it would turn over okay but wouldn’t start. Since she is way out of town I had decided I would bring out a CPS to replace as that was my first thought. Got out and check ignition, still no start. Replaced CPS and again no start. Did notice there was some white smoke from tail pipe.

When I got under the hood And removed the cover over fuel filter housing etc I saw that the glow plug relay looked as if it had been hot, cracks down the side and slightly melted. Because of that I went to check my wires going into my valve cover gasket to check my glow plugs. Both rear, closest to the fire wall were fried. Only the glow plugs, outers were burnt up. I pulled my valve covers and replaced both the gaskets and the pig tails. Also replaced glow plug relay.

I Replaced the valve covers and after priming the fuel filter housing was able to get the truck to start. I let it run for 10 minutes. At first sounded a little rough but smoothed out. I didn’t drive it at all last night, was just happy it started. I went to take it out today, started it and drove down the road. Seemed a rough idle. Drove it less than a 1/2 mile When I would hit the gas it seemed really doggy and wouldn’t go. Noticed when I pressed the gas it would blow white form tail pipe. So my question is where do I go from here. Pull my covers and check injectors? Anything else that y’all would recommend? Thank you!!!!
 

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Was it ever low on fuel? My suggestion is take it for a good drive and clear it out. I mean WOT for a few miles. Letting it sit is better than occasionally starting it and just letting it idle. These motors need to be driven to get any temperature in them and get the fuel moving.

I would have suggested to do the glow plugs while you were under there too but if they're working then it's ok. I've had cheap glow plug relays randomly crack so it's not uncommon for them to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not below 1/4 but she was at 1/4 on both tanks. Which I know is kind of a no no on these things. Brought out 10 gallon for to it today. Filled rear with what it would take and then drove down to the fuel station about 5 miles down the road. Felt like it got a lot of it’s power back but still ran sort of rough, especially at idle and white smoke out of the tail pipe any time I took off or really got into it. When I was running at 55-60 nothing really.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Probably about 15-20. Coming back I went out through the country a little. Not enough? I waited until the thermostat was showing in the normal running temperature. It stayed on the lower side normal never got to that mid range.
 

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In 90 degree weather here in the South it takes about 10 - 15 min to warm mine up while driving. I'd say take a longer drive and get some videos if you can. I'm curious if it's pure white smoke and the amount coming out.
 

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Check the air filter fo restriction and also intake path for a critter nest
 

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In 90 degree weather here in the South it takes about 10 - 15 min to warm mine up while driving. I'd say take a longer drive and get some videos if you can. I'm curious if it's pure white smoke and the amount coming out.
I will try to get over there today. If not for sure tomorrow and I will take video and take it for a longer drive.
 

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Any warning lights on the dash?

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

Have you looked at the readouts from the OBDII port to check for any codes and to see what the engine operating values show?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Any warning lights on the dash?

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

Have you looked at the readouts from the OBDII port to check for any codes and to see what the engine operating values show?
no warning lights and everything working as it should in the dash. I have checked the bowl several times to make sure fuel there as I was worried about pump from the tank. I have not taken a pressure reading though. The filter housing and mechanical fuel pump was replaced right after she bought it last summer as there was a fuel leak from under the bowl. I have not ran anything from the OBDII
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
In 90 degree weather here in the South it takes about 10 - 15 min to warm mine up while driving. I'd say take a longer drive and get some videos if you can. I'm curious if it's pure white smoke and the amount coming out.
I was able to take it out today. I drove for about 30 minutes. The truck quit smoking as much by the end of the drive but it did still feel rough the whole time. I took video of it runnning right after starting, hit the gas while idle and also videoed how rough it was running. You really can feel it in the cab. One video shows the door bouncing. It never ran that rough before. One thing I noticed during the drive today was that it kept sounding almost like a miss especially when i would hear it echo off of the bridges etc. I had never heard that before driving over those bridges prior to this. There are about 4 driving, the last one you can kind of hear what I mean. The last two are a drive by. I have had a 12 valve, a 24 valve and now a '18 cummins so while I am not as familure with the powerstrokes and know they have a different sound, it just doesnt sound right to me. And it didnt have that sound when you press the gas before. I am attaching the link to the videos for the google share drive that I have put the videos in. Open google drive with running videos
 

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I'll ask the dumb question: When you replaced the pigtails for the injectors/glowplugs, are you sure you got the wiring order correct? It would be kind of like getting the firing order on a gasser mixed up. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'll ask the dumb question: When you replaced the pigtails for the injectors/glowplugs, are you sure you got the wiring order correct? It would be kind of like getting the firing order on a gasser mixed up. Cheers!
Ha. Not dumb question. I was worried about that. So I only cut and re wired one at a time to make sure that they were wired the correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In 90 degree weather here in the South it takes about 10 - 15 min to warm mine up while driving. I'd say take a longer drive and get some videos if you can. I'm curious if it's pure white smoke and the amount coming out.
Were you able to access the videos? Just want to make sure I shared them correctly. Thanks
 

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Post the vids to youtube and the url link here
only a couple of the vids would play
 

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Looks like the smoke is more related to the injector that is causing the miss -- unburned fuel

ForScan would be handy here to do the injector cutout -- would tell which one is not working

Do you hear any odd sounds in the intake at idle - sucking, whooshing?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looks like the smoke is more related to the injector that is causing the miss -- unburned fuel

ForScan would be handy here to do the injector cutout -- would tell which one is not working

Do you hear any odd sounds in the intake at idle - sucking, whooshing?
That was my question. Really what I was thinking But not truest sure. You can scan injector function on these. I thought that I had always read that it was not able on the early 7.3s. Is For Scan just a OBD2 reader. Anything special? What’s cost? Where can I get? Thanks so much!! Also, if injector is issue, I’ve always heard just replace them all. Is that y’alls thoughts as well?
 

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There is a good possibility you still have a problem with the injector harness or the IDM(they get water inside)
testing the injector wires directly from the IDM connector would test the whole engine harness
have to dig around and see if I have a terminal pinout -- someone else may have one handy
Either way ForScan will operate the injectors -- that would tell if the connections are good or not

The PC version is the most powerful, but the phone/tablet version works OK also
OBDLink MX+ is the adapter, but the BAFX will also work -- some of the chinesium adapters work and some do not

Download FORScan -- you do not need the license to do what you need
 
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