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Air test thru the IPR port would be the next move
 

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I am currently having the same trouble. I replaced everything on the high pressure oil system with motor craft Ford parts. All genuin oem brand new parts. After the constant daily fight with putting it all back together I have the exact same leak I had before I replaced all the parts. This truck has been in my shop for months getting “back burner” work done to it as I have plenty other work to keep me busy. I just can’t seem to find the cause of the leak. Using a piece of hose I have narrowed the leak down to the top of the injectors and as I stated before I had replaced everything. Well technically not everything. Injectors were rebuilt with Alliant power rebuild kits and the oil rails were reconditioned with new nipple cups and o rings. I even changed the port plug and o ring on that. (On the drivers side oil rail that doesn’t have the icp sensor in it). This truck is giving me gray hair! Any suggestions?
Put some Ford injectors in and got
my truck running again . Gotta be something we’ve both missed or messed up during the rebuild process. One guy said to disassemble back down to the high pressure sealing area (inside the injector body) soak it in oil and just assemble it without wiping with rags or anything as the rags will leave fine lint, causing issues. Worth a shot to try maybe?
 

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Any recommendations? The SCT X4 nor a high end Snap-on diagnostic scanner can do it.
What's your decision on helping us help you?
 

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Put some Ford injectors in and got
my truck running again . Gotta be something we’ve both missed or messed up during the rebuild process. One guy said to disassemble back down to the high pressure sealing area (inside the injector body) soak it in oil and just assemble it without wiping with rags or anything as the rags will leave fine lint, causing issues. Worth a shot to try maybe?
I generally use WD40 spray as a wash to clean injector surfaces, it gives a little lube for assembly and does not contain anything that will hamper the seal
 

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I generally use WD40 spray as a wash to clean injector surfaces, it gives a little lube for assembly and does not contain anything that will hamper the seal
Thank you for the info, I’ll probably do that since I now have a spare set. I guess they’ll sit in my spare parts drawer for a rainy day. Or maybe just sell them since the installed remans come w a 2 year warranty? Anyways, thank you for the information on the injectors sir!
 

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Warranty usually only applies to the original owner
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
IPR % is going to 85% while cranking, ICP Pressure never got above 65psi, and ICP Voltage is 0.26V.
 

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At key on the ICP voltage should be 0.24
cranking you are looking for 0.8 - 1.1
PSI would need to be over 500 to fire the injectors(which is the voltage above)

The 85% reading means the PCM wants more oil pressure and has commanded the IPR closed
now, ...just because the IPR is commanded, does not mean it has actually followed orders

The next step is todo an air test of the high pressure system -- I prefer todo this thru the IPR port, but doing thru the ICP sensor port will cause you to need to hot wire the IPR -- this test will show if the IPR can close off or not -- the ICP port test is not the best for finding an air leak tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
At key on the ICP voltage should be 0.24
cranking you are looking for 0.8 - 1.1
PSI would need to be over 500 to fire the injectors(which is the voltage above)

The 85% reading means the PCM wants more oil pressure and has commanded the IPR closed
now, ...just because the IPR is commanded, does not mean it has actually followed orders

The next step is todo an air test of the high pressure system -- I prefer todo this thru the IPR port, but doing thru the ICP sensor port will cause you to need to hot wire the IPR -- this test will show if the IPR can close off or not -- the ICP port test is not the best for finding an air leak tho
What would cause the ICP voltage to not go up? If I do the air test through the ICP port, how would I hot wire the IPR? Can't you use forscan to command it to close?
 

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ICP voltage goes up with the oil pressure -- so ,IPR valve not closing, bad pump, no oil, or a leak

Yes, ForScan will operate the IPR valve -- but if the PCM is already commanding it closed, ForScan would not help
you may need to pull the valve and look into the end, to see if the valve is closing -- you can use a blunt tool to push in the internal part
I have a vid showing the innards of the IPR valve -- if your interested
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
ICP voltage goes up with the oil pressure -- so ,IPR valve not closing, bad pump, no oil, or a leak

Yes, ForScan will operate the IPR valve -- but if the PCM is already commanding it closed, ForScan would not help
you may need to pull the valve and look into the end, to see if the valve is closing -- you can use a blunt tool to push in the internal part
I have a vid showing the innards of the IPR valve -- if your interested
IPR was also replaced in this process since there was access to it. I guess my next step will be an air test.
 

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IPR was also replaced in this process since there was access to it. I guess my next step will be an air test.
Do not, whatever you do, discount a new part being bad. Many people having issues and considered a new part to be "good" have chased problems that ended up being a new part that was bad. Again, do not fall into this trap. Air test through the ipr port and inspect the ipr while it's out.
 

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I just replaced the injectors, stc fitting, standpipes, dummy plugs, and oil cooler on my truck. I have tried probably 20 times to crank the engine over by jumping the starter solenoid to prime the oil system. There's no codes, the fuel filter and oil filter housings are filling, there's good FICM voltage, but it still won't start. Any ideas?
What about your ipr or ice
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Do not, whatever you do, discount a new part being bad. Many people having issues and considered a new part to be "good" have chased problems that ended up being a new part that was bad. Again, do not fall into this trap. Air test through the ipr port and inspect the ipr while it's out.
Would it be worth it to just try the old IPR? I don't have an IPR test fitting at the moment, only an ICP fitting.
 

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Would it be worth it to just try the old IPR? I don't have an IPR test fitting at the moment, only an ICP fitting.
Just order the fitting from Amazon, you'll have it in a couple of days. For all the trouble it takes to get the fitting out, doing an air test at that point is ideal.
 
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