[steven_p]

yeah as far as i know it is the original FICM and it has 320,000 miles on it. but i will probably go with FICMrepair ive heard good things about them.

i checked all the connectors and all of them are plugged in not making any difference. all 8 click but no buzz

 

[steven_p]

also is it a possibility it could just be the FICM relay or just the FICM ?

 

[bismic]

A FICM relay issue would not only impact the 2,3,5,8 injectors. Those codes indicate an issue in the logic board (ie the drivers).

There is a LOW chance it could be in the wiring, but I consider it VERY unlikely.

 

[steven_p]

gotcha

 

[steven_p]

well got a new ficm on still no start injectors still arent buzzing, ficm is holding 48v. thoughts ?

all injector codes are cleared only thing still showing is engine oil temp circuit low but i dont think that would prevent the truck from starting

 

[bismic]

Engine oil temperature sensor issue might keep the glow plugs from working.

How cold is it there?

So the injector circuit codes did not came back after the codes were cleared?

 

[steven_p]

its 51 out right now, and no the codes havent came back they are still gone

 

[bismic]

Good deal. Fixed one issue hopefully.

51*F isn't all that cold, but not having any glow plug operation certainly make it harder to start - especially if there are low cranking rpms or marginal pressure in the high pressure system.

Make sure the connector is properly secured on the oil temperature sensor. If it is, then you probably need a new one.

Have you tried the block heater?
What are your cranking rpms?
What is the ICP sensor pressure and voltage when cranking?

 

[steven_p]

cranking rpms was roughly 250 i havent tried cranking it with the block heater but i have it plugged in now gonna try it again in a bit. ipr shot up to 83% when cranking held a little then slowly dropped. icp voltage was 1.4v when cranking and pressure was 1,100 to 1,200

 

[bismic]

83% isn't good, but the 1.4 volts matches the 1100 psi and it that is a good cranking number.

 

[steven_p]

is there a good way to bleed the system or anything i should look for that could cause it to be that high ?

 

[bismic]

Could be several things. Might be worth pulling the IPR and checking it out (see if it has a blown screen and is sticking on anything). Could also be a leak somewhere. Oil diluted down by fuel can cause it, so can low base oil pressure.

Even so, it should start with those numbers if you are getting both Sync's and enough fuel, and your injectors are working.

 

[steven_p]

im getting ficm sync all 8 injectors show to be working and fuel is showing to be good as well, ill pull the covers and check the oil rails, stand pipes, dummy plugs and ipr see if i see anything

 

[bismic]

You need Cam/Crank Sync also. Some people think that if you have FICM Sync, then you MUST have Cam/Crank Sync. They are mistaken.

I mentioned BOTH syncs, because they are both necessary ............

Did you even try starting with the block heater applied for 20-30 minutes? If so, I didn't see you mention it.

 

[steven_p]

i was unaware of that ill run another test and check that

 

[Hydro]

well got a new ficm on still no start injectors still arent buzzing

Have you ran the injector buzz test to see if they can make the clicks ?
I am assuming by your comment that the injectors are not making the pre-start noise

 

[steven_p]

yeah ive done the test a couple times all 8 click but no buzzing or clattering

 

[bismic]

So do you have Cam/Crank Sync when cranking or not?

That is the first thing to check for in the hierarchy of no-start troubleshooting.

Oil temperature is also an important thing to the PCM, so that is worth getting correct as soon as possible.

 

[Hydro]

Should be all injector buzz, then 8 clicks, all buzz, 8 clicks, final all buzz

 

[bismic]

From a troubleshooting guide I have:

P0197: Checks EOT sensor for higher than normal reading. Problem: short to ground. Default value is 212*F.
Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
The engine relies on the eot sensor to calculate the amount of fuel needed as well as how long the glow plugs will run for the engine to start. This issue MIGHT cause a no-start.

This (EOT) is something that needs to be fixed no matter what else is found. Since rare cases apparently have shown this to be associated with a no-start. Getting the simple things done first is a MUST for 6.0L troubleshooting. So is Cam/Crank Sync.

That said ...............
We have seen all 8 injectors fail to operate because of spool valve problems (practically simultaneously). It was hard for the owners to believe it, but it does happen. Several people had it happen on a brand new set. Others because of excessive oil temperature or poor oil change practice, or lack of filtration because of the wrong oil filter and oil filter cap.

Lots of possibilities. Whittle away at the known issues first IMO.