no codes, rough/missing idle 05 6.0 powerstroke
Any guesses what this could be ?
Fuel pressure is good.
Any guesses what this could be ?
Fuel pressure is good.
No codes, rough/missing idle
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Brother Steven, you’re gonna need Forscan on a laptop and the adapter. Absolutely no way we can help from just that video.
Having said that, we all want to help you! Good community here. If you can post a video to YouTube, you can easily download Forscan. The first thing you’ll need to do is look at DTC’s stored in the PCM. You might find things like cylinder contribution codes or injector-related codes that’ll help point us in the right direction.
I know you said you don’t have any codes but it is probably because you’re using a generic code reader. Most code readers won’t find much, if anything.
In the meantime, tell us more about your truck. Up to date on maintenance? How many miles? Snap a picture of your engine bay and post (I think I see an incorrect oil filter cap in that video).
Having said that, we all want to help you! Good community here. If you can post a video to YouTube, you can easily download Forscan. The first thing you’ll need to do is look at DTC’s stored in the PCM. You might find things like cylinder contribution codes or injector-related codes that’ll help point us in the right direction.
I know you said you don’t have any codes but it is probably because you’re using a generic code reader. Most code readers won’t find much, if anything.
In the meantime, tell us more about your truck. Up to date on maintenance? How many miles? Snap a picture of your engine bay and post (I think I see an incorrect oil filter cap in that video).
i have the adapter ordered im just waiting for it to come in.
the truck is pretty worn in sitting at 320,000 miles ive had it since 250,000. oil changed along with all filters roughly 3000 miles ago. all filter caps are oem besides top fuel bowl is replaced with a billet one. the truck only has a delete done to it.
that morning it was cold i let the truck high idle till all temps were at operating point. never saw any rises in temps nor oil pressure based on the gauges on the dash.
when the incident started i was driving about 40mph barely giving it anything and the moment i gave it the slightest bit of juice it jerked excessively hard like i had just sit something and was absolutely gutless, no power whatsoever. i was about a mile and a half from work and managed to limp it to our shop used about quarter of a tank in that mile and a half. it had the faintest smoke coming out even when trying to rev it. (that video is right after i pulled into my job)
i have noticed once i got it back to my house that the injectors are clicking but the coils aren’t making any racket. i have tried starting it just to see and its not even trying to hit
the truck is pretty worn in sitting at 320,000 miles ive had it since 250,000. oil changed along with all filters roughly 3000 miles ago. all filter caps are oem besides top fuel bowl is replaced with a billet one. the truck only has a delete done to it.
that morning it was cold i let the truck high idle till all temps were at operating point. never saw any rises in temps nor oil pressure based on the gauges on the dash.
when the incident started i was driving about 40mph barely giving it anything and the moment i gave it the slightest bit of juice it jerked excessively hard like i had just sit something and was absolutely gutless, no power whatsoever. i was about a mile and a half from work and managed to limp it to our shop used about quarter of a tank in that mile and a half. it had the faintest smoke coming out even when trying to rev it. (that video is right after i pulled into my job)
i have noticed once i got it back to my house that the injectors are clicking but the coils aren’t making any racket. i have tried starting it just to see and its not even trying to hit
Good feedback. Have you the ability to measure your fuel pressure? Do a search on the forum to find out how. It’s easy. Have you done the “blue spring” fuel regulator? At what level was your fuel tank? 1/4 or less
Really appreciate your willingness to get Forscan. It’ll help.
The dash gauges are not helpful. You really need a dedicated monitor. I use an Edge CTS2 but there are other options if you want to search for those as well.
Really appreciate your willingness to get Forscan. It’ll help.
The dash gauges are not helpful. You really need a dedicated monitor. I use an Edge CTS2 but there are other options if you want to search for those as well.
I dont have the correct fitting to measure my fuel pressure, the only thing ive done there is take the top filter cap off and watch how fast it fills which it does within about a second.
From my knowledge i believe the truck has had the blue spring put it in, at least thats what the guy i bought it from said however idk which he went with im sure they are all basically the same.
the truck was sitting at 1/2 tank. with that being said about a month and a half/ 2 months ago the fuel gauge started having problems. it will read anything from 1/4 up but when it gets to 1/4 tank it shows “fuel level data error” on the dash. i have never run it completely dry i try to leave at least 1/2 tank because of that reason.
From my knowledge i believe the truck has had the blue spring put it in, at least thats what the guy i bought it from said however idk which he went with im sure they are all basically the same.
the truck was sitting at 1/2 tank. with that being said about a month and a half/ 2 months ago the fuel gauge started having problems. it will read anything from 1/4 up but when it gets to 1/4 tank it shows “fuel level data error” on the dash. i have never run it completely dry i try to leave at least 1/2 tank because of that reason.
Sounds like it is only running on half of the cylinders -- have you checked to see that the FICM connectors are pushed all the way in ? -- the retaining tabs are prone to break off -- reach under with the engine running and push the connectors up, see if that makes any difference
Def get ForScan running, bet you find several codes -- write them down and clear the codes -- only need to be concerned with new codes that are persistent at this time
Def get ForScan running, bet you find several codes -- write them down and clear the codes -- only need to be concerned with new codes that are persistent at this time
Yes when i was trying to start it i had the key in the on position and was wiggling and pushing the connectors to see if the injectors would make a noise and wouldn’t do anything. all 8 click but they dont make any racket after.
the obd plug in isn’t supposed to be here till like middle of next week taking forever for whatever reason.
i have also already checked all rockers and everything is moving and in place as they should be because it sounded like a top end problem but i dont think thats the case.
the obd plug in isn’t supposed to be here till like middle of next week taking forever for whatever reason.
i have also already checked all rockers and everything is moving and in place as they should be because it sounded like a top end problem but i dont think thats the case.
BAFX or ObdLink MX+ are the two I recommend
What do you mean here ? was this during the warm up cycle ?
The injectors should do a progressively faster clicking, sometimes called a buzz
depending on how warm the engine is at the time the key is turned on
however if the temperature sensors are not reading correctly, this "buzz" will not work as intended
depending on how warm the engine is at the time the key is turned on
however if the temperature sensors are not reading correctly, this "buzz" will not work as intended
whenever i managed to limp the truck to our shop i let it run for a couple minutes while looking things over and had a mechanic come listen to it. i killed it waited a couple minutes turned the key to the on position and no buzz and its been like that ever since. no matter if its 50+ degrees or lower all they do is make a single slick on each injector.
Need to get ForScan on there and check the temp sensors (there are 5)
also run the injector buzz test -- this will do a general buzz, then click individual injectors -- then another buzz, and click again
listen to each injector at it clicks to determine if there is a sticking coil and poppet
The PC version is best for this -- you do not need the license
BAFX or ObdLink MX+ adapter
also run the injector buzz test -- this will do a general buzz, then click individual injectors -- then another buzz, and click again
listen to each injector at it clicks to determine if there is a sticking coil and poppet
The PC version is best for this -- you do not need the license
BAFX or ObdLink MX+ adapter
thats what i am working on getting i have an adapter ordered its just taking forever to get here. wish i would’ve already had one but ive never had a need for it with how well the truck performs.
sorry it took forever the adapter took forever anyways the the only DTCs that are showing on the PCM is P0197 Oil temp sensor low circuit
P0265 Cylinder #2 Injector high circuit as well as cylinders #3 and #5
also apparently the adapter i ordered isnt about to use all the functions on FORScan
P0265 Cylinder #2 Injector high circuit as well as cylinders #3 and #5
also apparently the adapter i ordered isnt about to use all the functions on FORScan
Cylinders 2,3,5,8 electrical codes is certain to be related to the FICM. Even though you don't have a code on #8, I still think it is FICM related. Check to make sure that FICM X2 connector (center one) is firmly seated in the FICM. If it is firmly connected, then I would lean to a FICM issue.
Yes, it can
If you haven't ever had the FICM upgraded, it is a good idea to do so. The two companies I would recommend are FICMRepair.com and CircuitBoardMedics.com. I like FICMRepair.com better, but they are more expensive.
Anyway, the FICM you get back from either of these companies is MUCH better than what you would buy from Ford or the aftermarket.
I consider it an essential upgrade for a reliable truck.
If you haven't ever had the FICM upgraded, it is a good idea to do so. The two companies I would recommend are FICMRepair.com and CircuitBoardMedics.com. I like FICMRepair.com better, but they are more expensive.
Anyway, the FICM you get back from either of these companies is MUCH better than what you would buy from Ford or the aftermarket.
I consider it an essential upgrade for a reliable truck.
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