[MoserJR82]

Ok. So last night I FINALLY finished putting my truck back together. Long story short, I had a #3 balance fault that ended up being a smoked piston. SO, while I had it torn down that far I figure I'd start the bullet-proofing. ARP head studs, EGR delete and a 4" turbo back straight pipe.

I say FINALLY because the last time I drove my truck was in June. Prior to this I'd never done more that an oil change or an alternator on a vehicle so there was obviously a learning curve and I didn't have all the money to just knock this out in a weekend or something.

Anyway, everything is back together (minus a few AC lines and such) and my turbo sounds like crap and has almost no boost. In stead of a nice clean whistle, it makes a really rough sounding screach. Almost like a loose belt on older cars. It's also popping a P2262 Turbo charger boost pressure not detected - mechanical.

It seems to get slightly better as it the engine gets up to temp. I don't have a piro so I can't tell you what the EGTs are doing.

Now, one thing I know for a fact, is that my left exhaust manifold to Y-pipe connection is not as tight as it could be but if there's any leaking it's very minimal.

My thought is this sounds like maybe the veins are probably siezed because the truck sat for so long, but I wanted to get your guys' take.

OH, also, there is a pretty loud constant buzzing from the engine bay now. It starts as soon as I put the key to the On position so I know it's electrical. Kinda makes my interior lighting fluctuate a little while I'm idling in park.

Any ideas?

And lastly, a huge thank you to everyone on this site, and the site administrators for all the help and info. This site is a fantastic resource and I would not have been able get my truck back on the road without you guys!

THANKS!!!!!!!

 

[MoserJR82]

Oh, one last thing. With these symptoms should I be driving it? I'm taking it easy for the first 500 miles anyway to break-in the piston and a few new valves but don't want to risk cooking anything in the process.

 

[MoserJR82]

Ok, so I discovered that I didn't hook up my "boost sense" hose on the intake so the code went away.

I also discovered that the buzzing noise was my vaccume pump. Still having turbo issues but I'll dig into that a little later...

 

[MoserJR82]

OK. Could really use a bump here. My truck has no power and the turbo is acting goofy. Whether I roll into the throttle or hit it hard (not going to WOT for a few hundred miles as I just replaced a piston and a couple valves) my truck smokes like a train and no boost. After the initial problem I cleaned the turbo with no change.
Yesterday it popped a code for EBP reading low or pressure low so I took off the EBP sensor and tube and cleaned them both, though neither of them were that dirty. Reinstalled and the EBP code went away.
Reflashed the stock tune and did the VGT relearn procedure (not sure if it even did anything as my truck is an 05) It seemed to help a little but not much. My truck would show boost on the needle but I didn't feel any power increase.
Went back to my Spartan Hybrid Race tune and the truck sounds better at idle but still no power, no boost and tons of smoke.
VGT % sits at 85% at idle and VERY slowly adjusts under throttle.
EBP sits around 420 at idle and increases with throttle as well.
Turbo sounded like more of a hissing than a whine to I took off the HAC tube and boots, cleaned and degreased the tube ends and boots and reinstalled.
I had the same hissing noise on the way to work for about the first 5 miles and as RPMs increased my boost gauge would jump from 0 to 10psi but no power increase and still tons of black smoke.
After that my turbo needle will barely move, no turbo noise at all, still tons of black smoke and now I'm getting a code for no turbo boost pressure detected - mechanical.
I checked the boots again when i got to work and they don't look like they've moved at all......

HELP!!!!

 

[mhatlen]

Have you taken a look at the egr valve?

do you have the marmon clamps on straight?

Check the plastic up pipe at the flexible area for crack look all the way around it.

Vanes are moving freely on the turbo and plug is ok? Have you tried unplugging vgt ?

 

[MoserJR82]

Have you taken a look at the egr valve?

do you have the marmon clamps on straight?

Check the plastic up pipe at the flexible area for crack look all the way around it.

Vanes are moving freely on the turbo and plug is ok? Have you tried unplugging vgt ?

I have an EGR delete, but the valve is still in place and I cleaned it last week before I put the truck back together after replacing a piston, head gaskets and studs.

As far as the clamps, if you mean on the hot air charge tube then yes, the clamps are parallel to the white lines on the boots

If you mean the clamps on the Y-pipe/down pipe, I'm 99% sure it's a yes, I tightened them down before I tightened down the turbo mounting bolts because my down pipe wasn't quite lining up. y-pipe went on like a glove.

I haven't checked the CAC tube at the intercooler yet, will do tonight.

Veins were good when I put it back together after cleaning the turbo 2 nights ago and even when the turbo was hissing the pitch was changing. I have not tried unplugging the VGT yet. I thought about taking it completely out to inspect it but it was still hot and got too late last night. What will unplugging the VGT do or tell me?

 

[morganbryane]

I just finished studding and gaskets. I had the same problem no boost. I need to hook up the MAP sensor to the manifold. It is a small hose that comes out from the evaporator core area. Mine had a tiny red clamp on it. Once that was hooked up, she flew...

 

[MoserJR82]

I just finished studding and gaskets. I had the same problem no boost. I need to hook up the MAP sensor to the manifold. It is a small hose that comes out from the evaporator core area. Mine had a tiny red clamp on it. Once that was hooked up, she flew...

Yeah, that was my original problem, I had tucked the tube out of the way to work and missed it on reassembly. I just double checked it about a half hour ago to make sure it was not clogged. It wasn't clogged and I hooked it back up.. Thanks

 

[mhatlen]

Turbo is controlled from the pcm, if you disconnect the vgt it will go into default position which is opening the vanes, creating less backpressure more boost.

If you hear no change in tone it's probably froze up like your thinking.

You do want to make sure there is no leak on the y pipe for turbo to work correctly, it needs all that draft pressure to keep it spooling along.
Do you have any soot showing on the up pipes?

 

[MoserJR82]

Turbo is controlled from the pcm, if you disconnect the vgt it will go into default position which is opening the vanes, creating less backpressure more boost.

If you hear no change in tone it's probably froze up like your thinking.

You do want to make sure there is no leak on the y pipe for turbo to work correctly, it needs all that draft pressure to keep it spooling along.
Do you have any soot showing on the up pipes?

Ok cool. I do have a ton of soot in the engine bay because I had to move a bridge clamp that connects the rest of the exhaust (4" straight pipe) to the down pipe. It was in the way of the trans dipstick tube when I was putting everything back together and I forgot to tighten it back down until yesterday so the whole passenger side rear of the engine bay is flat black right now.
I'll double check the rest of the joints and look to see if there's any cracks in the y-pipe tonight. Thanks!

 

[mhatlen]

You should be listening to a nice turbo whine out that pipe,Ihave same configuration and love it.

 

[MoserJR82]

so I was in mid conversation with a buddy of mine talking about my downpipe and Y pipe and turbo issues and I got to talking about the delete pipe for the Eger delete verses the y pipe that's normally there on a stock motor. I literally stopped mid sentence and realized that during reassembly that I never connected to delete pipe back to the top of the y pipe! truck is running like a raped ape! thanks to everyone for all of your help