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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
SuchTrk, I hope your project is progressing satisfactorily. So far I've obtained:
and

The N7 is rooted and Temur's Kernel is installed; everything seems to be running fine.

A couple of confusing things:
1. The replacement 90* micro USB cable isn't listed as an OTG cable, but it seems to be doing the job.

2. The description on Amazon for the "Y" cable specifically states that it won't charge the tablet, but it is. ???


I connected the OTG "Y" cable in line with the standard N7 charger while watching the Power Event Manager. I enabled F1 mode, fast charging, and firm sleep. Show suspend screen... And show wake up toast were enabled by default.

External power and charging battery indicated correctly when the power cable was plugged into the female micro USB. The tablet shut down and came back to life when power was disconnected and reconnected.

Where did you find the 12V switched that stays hot while the key is in the "start" position? It doesn't appear that the 12V switched to the stock radio does.

I am currently using the one in the harness but sadly it does not stay on while cranking. I am currently on travel for work right now so I haven't been able to mess with it in a week or so. I apologize for the slow response

For charging with the Y cable it has to do mostly with software and the hardware in the tablet. If you were to uninstall Timur's kernel you wouldn't be able to charge at the same time. Due to how the stock software is designed. On stock otg I'd you plug in say a USB drive it will pull power from the tablet. Since the tablet is outputting power it can't charge. The kernal changes how that works. With their kenal installed and ( if I remember correctly) have fi mode enabled in PEM then if you just plug in the USB thumb drive it won't work till you plug in a power source. That is because the kernal stopes the tablet from putting out power so it can charge instead.
 

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I figured you might be away from home...

I've been experimenting while I'm on the road in my work truck. The audio from the 3.5mm jack sounds really good, but there's an issue when the unit's charging. It has a continuous tone with the audio. Looks like some kind of ground loop issue, but it's not alternator whine - it doesn't change with engine rpm.

Another funny thing is that the FI won't work with the 90* cable in the circuit UNLESS THERE IS SOMETHING PLUGGED INTO THE USB (non-charging) port. :dunno: And, yes, the USB device won't operate unless the external power is plugged in.

Well, stay out of trouble on your road trip. :rofl: you'll probably have thought of plenty of new ideas by the time you get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hmm intresting that the 90 degree causes that. I have some usb terminations coming in (hhopefully) soon. I'm going to wire up my own "Y" cable. I think the wires are too small in mine to allow it to charge fast enough. I will be home next week to mess with it more.
 

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The description in Amazon of the 90* cable doesn't say anything about it being an OTG cable, and if it's built like the normal cable in this diagram, the otg doesn't look like it would connect through it since there' soothing connected to pin 4 on the micro - but, then, I don't know how to account for it working with a device plugged into the USB plug. :dunno:



When you start building your own cables, you might find this page interesting:
https://beyondthekeeboard.wordpress.com/2010/10/30/hacking-away-with-android-pt-2-making-your-own-usb-host-cable/
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The sense pin is used for a normal device to decide what mode to operate in. there are some DIYs out there that show putting a resistor between sense and ground enables the otg + charging For some devices. I don't think my cable is using the sense pin that I know of but that could be why yours won't charge. It may not "sense" any thing attached and therefor not charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'll know more on that when I get a chance to build my own cable
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So i attempted to build my own cable... utter failure. i have watched and looked at several how tos and still can't get it to work. the pin 4 on the micro usb is indeed used on OTG. with out it the nexus won't move to host mode. i have been able to get the device to recognize that i am plugging in an otg cable but it won't connect to anything. i have been testing with a usb thumb-drive that has a led in it that blinks when it is being read. when i try to use my custom cable it just blinks extremely fast (faster then normal use) and the nexus doesn't' recognize it. I will see if i can do some more testing this weekend with it but i have no idea why it isn't working.
 

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So i attempted to build my own cable... utter failure. i have watched and looked at several how tos and still can't get it to work. the pin 4 on the micro usb is indeed used on OTG. with out it the nexus won't move to host mode. i have been able to get the device to recognize that i am plugging in an otg cable but it won't connect to anything. i have been testing with a usb thumb-drive that has a led in it that blinks when it is being read. when i try to use my custom cable it just blinks extremely fast (faster then normal use) and the nexus doesn't' recognize it. I will see if i can do some more testing this weekend with it but i have no idea why it isn't working.
Maybe you've got a bad connection on one of the data wires. If you put a cable in between the OTG cable and the N7 I don't think it will detect the OTG, so it should operate normally.

Mine won't go into the FI mode unless a usb device is plugged into the data plug on the OTG cable, but it works fine as long as something is, so I guess I'm not going to be concerned about it.

Until I get the bugs worked out, I'm going to use my N7 with the audio plugged into the Line In of the stock radio. That way my wife won't go nuts when she uses the truck. :nod: other than not being able to mount the N7 in the dash, it works pretty much the same; line in is even the default on the factory unit, so it can be pretty much invisible.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
the problem with testing that is i don't have a micro to micro cable. i also am having terrible luck trying to figure out the steering wheel controls. its like i'v hit a brick wall lol. the cable i have is working ok i'm just afraid its not going to hold up very long but the steering wheel control is bugging me to death
 

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Yeah, the micro to micro cables are cheap, but you'd probably have to order one... Can you pot the plug on the cable you had to cut down to give it more durability?

Joycon seems to be the one a lot of guys are going with. From some of their write-ups it looks like you connect it to the truck, then plug the USB into your computer, press the steering wheel control you want to program, and select what you want it to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I have the Joycon EXC. the EXC model is needed because the stereo uses the CAN BUS network to give the commands to the factory stereo. i have the joycon set up so i can see the messages but it is far from "simply" hooking it up and programming. Let me know if you find an install video using the CAN BUS setup because i am having no luck in figuring out these messages. my next step is getting a wire diagram from ford to see if i can find out where the restive wires are instead. But that will probably have me digging farther in the dash to pick that signal up.
 

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I found this thread on XDA-developers...

Audi A4 In Dash Install - Pg. 3 | Nexus 7 | XDA Forums

I didn't read all of it, but this looks like it could be what you're looking for:
"Not quite... in newer Audi's, VW's (I am sure also in SEAT's, Skoda's) and I believe it is also in some Ford's, so I am sure other manufacturers as well. CAN-BUS is the protocol used by all the car's computers to talk to one another.

The Joycon cannot interpret CAN-BUS signals, so a converter is needed to sit between the CAN-BUS (vehicle wiring harness) and the Joycon, that takes the CAN-BUS signal, and converts it to a signal that the Joycon can read (resistance). For me a wiring harness that would have been used for me to install an aftermarket head unit in my car does this conversion piece, I believe PAC-Parts make them as well as some others."

They also talk about a UI. Are you looking at any particular one right now?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
He is probably talking about an older Joycon. the first few versions that they put out couldn't interpret the CAN-BUS but they have a newer one, the EXC, that can. the problem is the directions that come with it are really hard to understand. I also can't find a video of anyone setting up the EXC. I'm trying to not buy yet another module to convert signals again. In the steering wheel the buttons are the resistance set up. i have pulled them out and tested this. from there it goes to a SCCM (steering column control module) that converts it to the CAN-BUS. It is then run over to the stereo. I can't figure out the CAN-BUS messages so i am going to see if i can pick up the resistance signal before it goes into the SCCM. If i can't do that i will probably have to buy the PAC module to convert it again but its another part to fail that i am trying to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
This talks about going to the "clock spring for the signal

Where to get the signal of steering wheel controls for Car PC
The second picture in this post is how the truck is set up. the difference is the EXC "can" read the CAN-BUS if you can pick out what message is the button. Sadly it isn't as easy as push button see one message. when ever i push 1 button i get alot of messages. i found a wire diagram that shows how the buttons interface to the clock spring and to the SCCM. the problem is i don't know if i can get that signal. I can't find anything by searching for the SCCM. So i'm begining to think its apart of the clockspring. if that is the case i won't be able to get to the resistance wires.

Attached is the PDF showing several diffent wire diagrams for the stereo. Page 16 shows the steering wheel setup ( at least for my truck)

EDIT: here is the link to the new joycon EXC
http://www.rcjoycon.com/default/menu_10.php?com_board_basic=read_form&com_board_idx=27&menu=10&&com_board_search_code=&com_board_search_value1=&com_board_search_value2=&com_board_page=&
 

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I've heard comments on several Ford Truck boards/threads that the controls on the steering wheel are defined by the individual resistances they develop. This is usual in the answer to a problem that includes incorrect responses from the various controls, and the fix usually includes replacing the "clock spring." Could you tie in between the clock spring and the SCCM? There's a slight chance it would load it down enough to mess up the signals to the SCCM, but the Joycon should draw next to nothing.

On a separate note, I see that pin 1 is labeled Batt, pin 2 - del/acc, and pin 3 - START. That must be how they keep power during engine start. It must be diode isolated.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I've heard comments on several Ford Truck boards/threads that the controls on the steering wheel are defined by the individual resistances they develop. This is usual in the answer to a problem that includes incorrect responses from the various controls, and the fix usually includes replacing the "clock spring." Could you tie in between the clock spring and the SCCM? There's a slight chance it would load it down enough to mess up the signals to the SCCM, but the Joycon should draw next to nothing.

On a separate note, I see that pin 1 is labeled Batt, pin 2 - del/acc, and pin 3 - START. That must be how they keep power during engine start. It must be diode isolated.
What page are you seeing Pin 3 start? i see on the first one labeled as 15 but i'm not seeing it as 3?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
On good news i found another place to pull power from that should be both run and start. will do more testing. I picked up a tuner the other day and it said to pull signal from fuse 52 in the engine bay. will do some more research on this but if it holds true i will probably use that to run my relay also.

now the bad ish news. as far as i can tell the SCCM and the clock spring set up against each other so there is no wire connection. just pins and compression contacts. with that it leaves no place to directly pick up the resitance signal. i am debating pulling the steering wheel and clock spring to see how it is set up to see if i can fit some wires in there to pull the signal. if not the best option would be to just but yet another module to read the can bus and get that output. PAX puts out a module for after market radios. from what i can tell it converts the can bus output into voltage readings that the joycon can then convert to usb. will probably spend some more time today seeing if i can make any sense of the can-bus messages. I really don't want to get another module.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
So more good news I found what CAN messages are for Media, Seek, and volume. I will post more information on the configuration of the joycon once i get it fully working. as of right now the joycon is seeing me press the button but it thinks i'm holding it down so i am looking at settings to see what i have wrong but this means no need to buy the other module as the joycon EXC can see the correct messages... just a pain in the but to figure out.
 
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