Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

81 - 84 of 84 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
That’s awesome! Glad you got it running! Injector cups don’t seem too difficult to install. This is a kit from Riffraff. After you use it I’m sure you could sell it for a good chunk of change. I don’t know what a shop charges in labor for a cup install. Here’s a good video on install.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck1hQEunB-o


Here is the kit

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/riffraff-diesel-7-3l-injector-cup-sleeve-tool-set/

As far as injectors go, I remember reading that Swamps has an amazing warranty on theirs. The thread in this link is an amazing video on understanding and choosing injectors.

https://www.powerstroke.org/#/topics/1348761

Swamps has a 5yr 200,000 mile warranty on their injectors.

https://swampsdiesel.com/products/160cc-single-shot-injectors-stage2-single-shot/

Keep us posted man!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #82
I'll likely be ordering the injectors, cups, and tool from Rosewood diesel. A basic set rebuild from them starts at $500. Their premium rebuild is $1100. I'll go ahead and get the full premium rebuild.

Unfortunately - I'm in the agriculture industry (beekeeper) - and flow (nectar and $$) in my world starts up in early spring - so that's when the cash for the parts will be available.

Until then - I'm going to use the Stiction Eliminator by HotShot to see if that can help until I can get a full and proper injector and cup replacement done.

Over the winter I'll also address my codes that keep my SES light on as well. I'll do that in a fresh thread If I can't figure them out with the forum search tool. (i.e. I have a constant MAP low code - P0107 - and have changed my MAP sensor - but the code still is in place. It could be that I need to actually drive the truck for x number of miles for it to go away - or there svould be something other than the MAP sensor that is actually wrong... (i.e. does a 2001 F250 have a baro. sensor separate from the MAP sensor? )

Then there's the GEM code: B1352 to figure out as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #83
Just an update. Last week I warmed the engine (again - starting with brake cleaner as my "starter fluid") - then changed the oil, and added 2 quarts of Stiction Eliminator by Hotshot. Then ran at idle for about 45-minutes. It sure sounded good after that oil change, and the cleaning additive in the oil. Let it cool off overnight. - Hoping that it would start right up - but no dice (Life can't be THAT easy, eh?). Brake cleaner used once again as a starter fluid the next morning.

I also noticed a few things after running the engine:
-Oil drips on the pavement - near front of engine - I suspect from the oil cooler.
-Oil drips from rear. Upon investigation, the valley has a puddle sitting up there - and I found NO oil leaking from the (3) HPOP connectors - and the puddle was near the pedestal below the turbo. Ill plan on new pedestal/turbo seals as well.

So - I'm planning other work to be done when I change the injectors/cups in the spring. Are there any other areas that would be suspect for oil leaks that I haven't already mentioned above?

I'll also be fixing the parking brake this next month - so I can get the truck inspected/registered. And thusly start driving it around town a bit. Would I expect to see any or much cleaning of the HPOP side of the injectors at idle with the Stiction Eliminator? OR do I need to run the truck for it to be most effective (if it helps at all, anyway?)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,690 Posts
No reason to change out the injector cups unless there is one or more leaking coolant ...save you money for other things.

I have read a couple of posts about using a shim kit to fix the worn injector poppets, stiction is not much of a 7.3 thing but worn poppets is.

Curious if when the engine is idling, is there much blowby coming out of the oil filler with the cap off?
 
81 - 84 of 84 Posts
Top