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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,bought my first diesel recently and got a good deal on it.its a 2004 f350 super cab 6.0 automatic SRW. Finally got it registered today so the fixing process begins now. It’s bone stock, former hydro seeding truck by the same owners for 14 years. I’ve been trying to study diesel tech Ron’s videos as much as possible to avoid asking the usual popular questions. As of right now i know it needs a jump start or maybe batteries, oil pan (which i already ordered and have) and maybe injectors or glow plugs? So when I got the truck, previous owner said it wouldn’t start no matter the outdoor temperature unless it was plugged in. When I picked the truck up it was in the 70’s outside, plugged in, and I cycled it about 5 times to get it to start. My next steps are to start going down the list I saw on the forum for no start Question I do have is what scangauge do you recommend? I’ve seen those are a must have, along with eventually addressing the egr, head studs and a few other things. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated, and I thank you for listening to a guy who made an impulse purchase with minimal knowledge. One last side note, the goal for this truck is to start a small landscaping business for myself, it came with a fisher minute mount plow, but I’m in no rush getting into snow removal.
 

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Mr. Crossthread
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If you're doing an oil pan, you're pulling the engine.. so do everything all at once. Heads, studs, all gaskets etc. Pretty much all top end if compression is good.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
 
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Thank you, someone told me you can do the oil pan without pulling the motor. I think they said like unbolt radiator and steering, and you can jack the motor up enough to put the pan in? Is that a poor/hacked way to do it?
 

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california deplorable
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i havent done the oil pan in mine and honestly never paid too much attention.
but over the scan gauge i would go torque pro and a dedicated tablet or phone for cheap or get the cts both do codes and allow monitoring of more pids than the scan gauge.
fnd out your build date as there are 2 04 models early and late and both have slightly different
weak spots" you will want to address.
get a new hpop while you are into it and a relocation kit for the oil cooler to make life easier in the future heck check out the stickies section of the 60 section of the forum look for monitoring and bulletproofing a 6.0 two separate threads and if you get stuck there are a ton of great people here with more knowledge and experience tha i who will be willing to help
and welcome to the 6.0 family
these things have a really bad reputation (some deserved most not) as a result of two big corps playing pass the buck instead of fixing issues and building a better truck :sad:
that said the after market has stepped up in the places they did not and the issues with the 6.0 are fairly easily addressed today and once done they are a blast to drive no dpf bs etc etc :thumb:
 
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Thank you very much that was super helpful, I have an old iPhone 6plus or IPad Pro 12.9 I can dedicate to the truck for monitoring. I had a 2nd gen Ram 318 gasser for years that I loved, but ever since having the 6.0 I’ve grown to love it so much more. I’m mechanically inclines and have always done all the work on my own cars but I’ve never worked on a diesel before. I have an understanding of things in theory to a small extent, but have never been hands on. Got the truck and plow for $2000 from a guy I work part time for and really want to bring it back to life
 

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Depending on how long/far you intend to use this truck and If you're doing an oil pan, I'd go ahead and do as much to the top end as possible including o-ringed heads.

k
 

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I have a leak, just a drop a day, and I can’t figure if its the oil pan, the bed seal, the rear main seal, or the front seal. It could also be any combination of the three.

Does the oil pan have damage like being rusted through?

DTR has a video of changing the seal by lifting the engine a couple of inches, but he did not change the pan. If you do remove the engine for this, there’s a lot of things that could be done. For me, I’d want the lifters in mine changed and if other parts show wear, those also. I’d probably get all four of those places my engine could be leaking from sealed.
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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Thank you, someone told me you can do the oil pan without pulling the motor. I think they said like unbolt radiator and steering, and you can jack the motor up enough to put the pan in? Is that a poor/hacked way to do it?
It can be done well by jacking the engine up. Just pay attention to things that might bind.

Removal of the outer shroud and serpentine belt is necessary. The procedure is to simply lift the engine about an inch off the frame, and that will give more than sufficient clearance ...... but it is HIGHLY advised to also loosen the two radiator brackets, and to remove the transmission line hold-down brackets (holding transmission lines to the lower oil pan).... and/or remove the transmission lines that run from the transmission to the external filter housing. It probably would also help on the 05 and up 4WD models to also remove the steering stabilizer.
 

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I have a leak, just a drop a day, and I can’t figure if its the oil pan, the bed seal, the rear main seal, or the front seal. It could also be any combination of the three.

Does the oil pan have damage like being rusted through?

DTR has a video of changing the seal by lifting the engine a couple of inches, but he did not change the pan. If you do remove the engine for this, there’s a lot of things that could be done. For me, I’d want the lifters in mine changed and if other parts show wear, those also. I’d probably get all four of those places my engine could be leaking from sealed.


To now have the luxury to be concerned over a single drop of oil per day is a good indicator of just how far we've come with fixing these problem-plagued trucks -- outstanding Chris!
 
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