[davidshick2]

Hi all i am new to the forum and also diesels, I purchased a 05 F250 with 96,000mi on it its a crew cab lariat 4x4 6.0l. I first noticed the degas bottle puking coolant and leaving a white residue so I took it to ford since I bought the ford esp thank God and they replaced the degas bottle and cap said it was leaking on the pressure test now I have had it a week or so and its still doing it but I ran the truck and it looks like bubbles in the degas bottle while its running and still puking. Now I have read bubbling could mean head gaskets but i dont understand how it passed pressure test, No white smoke and seems to run fine PCM has been reflashed I have reasearched and tried to figure this out any help is much appreciated.:dunno:

PS the oasis report before I bought it
05 when puchased adjusted 4x4 nothing replaced
09 The whole EGR system including EGR cooler and oil cooling
Thanks
Dave

 

[NYC F-350]

Go back to the Ford dealer. Tell them you still have coolant loss.
Then, according to THIS TSB, there are tests that they have to do to determine if your egr cooler has failed (and by default you oil cooler has as well...explanation to follow), or the head gaskets are gone. My guess is that since you see that much bubbles, the head gaskets are toast.

Next post: WTF happened

 

[NYC F-350]

The EGR cooler has failed. This was caused by the oil cooler being plugged in the coolant passages. The coolant enters through the top the oil cooler, cools the oil, exits back out of the top of the oil cooler and is directed to the EGR cooler. Since the coolant passages are plugged, the available coolant flow was insufficient at removing heat. The exhaust temp can easily reach 1000°F and if there is insufficient coolant flow, the egr cooler quickly overheats. The heat stress and the fact that the small amount of available coolant can actually flash boil, has compromised the egr cooler. That allows the coolant to flow out of the egr cooler and enter the air intake stream (when running). This coolant will get into the combustion chambers, and the steam pressure created by this will be enough to raise the cylinder pressure beyond what the stock head bolts can withstand, they stretch and the head gasket blows out.
When the engine is shut off, the coolant can still flow out of the egr cooler, and down the up-pipe on the passenger side of the engine. Should enough coolant make its way down into the exhaust manifold, it could enter the combustion chambers through whatever cylinder happens to have the exhaust valves open. You climb in the truck, turn the key, and the engine can actually hydrolock.
The dealership gave you the "runaround." This is a very well known issue and is the reason everyone is afraid of this engine. Read that TSB, print it out and if you have to, drop it on the dealers desk.

 

[NYC F-350]

Oh and by the way. When they finally agree that the head gaskets are toast, find a machine shop local to you that can mill heads. You DO NOT want the Ford dealer checking the heads. Their procedure is not sufficient enough to determine this.
It may cost you some cash, but trust me, it will be well worth whatever you have to pay to get this done. If it is not done, and the heads are not flat/straight enough, another head gasket failure could be in your future.
Have the machine shop check the heads for flat/straight and have them magnafluxed for cracking, especially in the exhaust valve seat area.
When the machine shop goes to mill the heads, tell them that they can not machine off more than .07 to achieve flat. If they must, you have to buy a new head.
Then, buy a set of ARP head studs. DO NOT use the stock FORD head bolts. BIG difference.
The stock bolts are of the "Torque To Yield" type, which means that the bolts are designed to stretch to a certain point to maintain clamping force. Not the best design for a high compression engine. They are sufficient for what the stock version (the International VT365) of this engine is, but FORD changed the programming in the PCM to gain "best in class" status with horsepower and torque. Not a big deal, but a small contributing factor. The studs are a MUCH better choice.
The ARP head studs do not stretch. The nuts on top of the studs maintains the clamping force.
ARP Head studs for $400.
This is definitely one of those jobs where, even though you have a warranty, if you spend some of your cash to get better parts/machining, you will be VERY glad that you did in the end.

 

[davidshick2]

Thank you! I am taking it back today they wont touch it till monday but I will call around for some machine shops and get a order for the ARP head studs in and I am also lokking at bulletproof oil coller and egr cooler (we have emissions here)
Thanks agian
Dave