is a new motorcraft thermostat a 190* or a 180* because after i did my coolant flush and installed a the new thermostat ECT levels out at 190* as opposed to the pre flush and thermostat it was level at 180*???
The Motorcraft thermostat is stamped 89-104C to indicate that it begins to open at 89C and reaches the fully open position at 104C. These temperatures equate to 192F and 219F, respectively. If your old thermostat held at 180F it had failed in the open position preventing the engine from reaching optimum operational temperatures in a reasonable amount of time. To be clear though, a stuck-open thermostat is ultimately preferrable to a stuck-closed thermostat which might allow an engine to overheat. Notwithstanding, a fully-functional thermostat is just what the doctor ordered and it sounds like you make a proper diagnosis and took appropriate corrective action. Great work!
Do you ever have any short replies or are you an author in disguise?:roll1:ej_krueger,
In order to assess your themostat it is necessary to know how you operate your truck. Many people use their trucks for short trips failing to get the engine into the thermostat's operational temperature range. Extended idling, defined by Ford as more than 10-minutes, or low-speed operation, definded by Ford as 25mph or less, will not allow the engine to move into the operational temperature range of the thermostat. So if either of these conditions matches your driving style then there is no way to know if your thermostat is stuck open or just waiting for an operational temperature to activate its mechanism. Few thermostats are bad from the factory...that doesn't mean that none are bad from the factory but the reliability of a Motorcraft thermostat is high. You indicate "mine reads 188.6 95% of the time" which is a fairly precise reading unless you've converted from degrees C (87C)...it's just interesting that you've got such a precise figure. In any case, in order to properly gauge the thermostat you need to operate the truck for about 20-minutes or more at highway speeds (i.e., placing a substantial load upon the engine - this does not mean "wide-open-throttle" - I am speaking of 2,000+ RPM in overdrive or top gear...the torque powerband). After getting the truck into this condition, read the coolant temperature for a steady-state value. Further acceleration or climbing grades will ordinarily cause the coolant temperature to rise slightly - accompanied by a comparable but slower rise in the oil temperature of course - with a decrease in the coolant temperature back to the steady-state value previously identified upon deceleration or decending grades - and the oil temperature dropping more slowly too. One further point that bears mentioning is that while Motorcraft thermostats are reliable, aftermarket non-OEM thermostats may not have the same operational range nor have the same degree of consistency in production. Many folks have learned the hard way that saving a few pennies on parts often has a dollar consequence on components. There are quality alternatives to OEM but often "you get what you pay for."
Hope this helps.
386? heck that was years down the road. Hell I remember when the 16k memory upgrade to get an Apple II from 48K to 64K was $800. IBM hadn't even invented the PC. :hehe:God, I had that on 5-1/4" floppy, for my 386... And I wasn't all that young, either... LOL
The Apple IIc or Apple IIe??? I can't even believe I just asked that question... :doh:386? heck that was years down the road. Hell I remember when the 16k memory upgrade to get an Apple II from 48K to 64K was $800. IBM hadn't even invented the PC. :hehe:
Yeah, I've been around for a while.:hehe: :nod: