New Guy- 1st diesel- turbo seems to have stopped working

3291 Views 69 Replies 10 Participants Last post by John in OkieLand, 2 mo ago

FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

FIXED:

I found a picture of where the MAP hose runs, then went out to the RV to find it. Holy crap! The end of the hose that attaches to that box, sensor or whatever it is had popped off. It was hidden, and I feel lucky I found it. Attached it, and BOOM runs like a champ.

That little sucker just popped off when I was halfway between Chicago and Dallas before sunrise. If only I would have known what to look for, the rest of that trip would have been WAY less stressful and I wouldn't have bothered you all. CASE CLOSED.

____

Hi all- I did do a search, but didn't see exactly what I'm experiencing.

I bought an E350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke in Chicago yesterday, and drove it to Dallas. It's actually a 21' RV on the E350 cutaway chassis.

This morning, I'm motoring along at 70 on cruise control. It had been running well for about 500 miles. All of a sudden, the cruise control shuts down. I figured there was just a glitch, so hit the gas to get back to to 70. No power.

I should say lower power. I made it the rest of the way home, probably another 400 miles, but it was a dog. I could get it to 65 on the flats, but as soon as there was any incline it would drop, sometimes enough to where it had to downshift. There was never a noise, or smoke, and it never got hot.

I'm pretty sure the turbo isn't spooling up. Is it possible for it to run without the turbo spooling at all? The stuff I've read so far is that if a turbo goes out, you will see smoke, hear it, etc.

It doesn't miss or sputter. The power delivery is smooth, just very weak. It's at 108,000 miles by the way.

Would REALLY appreciate any insights. It's quite a bummer to have stuff happen on your way home from a new purchase. And I know nothing about diesels. Guess I'm about to learn!

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FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #41 · 2 mo ago

NoRalPh said:
In any NoStart condition we want to monitor these 4 Important parameters while trying to start;

ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors)

IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)

CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)

CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v)

Thank you. I actually got it started, and it was a really dumb user error thing. So, I'm back to the original issues.

The group help has been amazing so far. REALLY appreciate it, Gents. I'm mechanically inclined, just gas engines my whole life so diesel is a new beast for me. Catching up quickly though.

Calif250

· #42 · 2 mo ago

If the 100$ won't break the bank that boost gauge is money well spent. Although you should hear a whistle from the turbo spool

FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #43 · 2 mo ago

Calif250 said:
If the 100$ won't break the bank that boost gauge is money well spent. Although you should hear a whistle from the turbo spool

Yeah, it's definitely not spooling. I was driving it, with the doghouse cover off, so the turbo was basically exposed and inside of the cab with me. Nada. But no codes. The better instrument may be a fuel pressure gauge. Doesn't the FORScan measure fuel pressure? I would sure think that it would.

Hydro

· #44 · 2 mo ago

Fuel pressure is not monitored by the system, ForScan will only see what the truck system sees
you will need to add a gauge -- electronic would be the safest route

NoRalPh

· #45 · 2 mo ago

FatBuoy said:
Doesn't the FORScan measure fuel pressure? I would sure think that it would.

OK, so at this point I'm just having fun with ya! (Post #5 AGAIN, ya might seriously consider evaluating your Reading Comprehension skills)

NoRalPh said:
I would next suspect Fuel Delivery as the culprit as the PCM has no way to monitor that and a good place to start would be to simply change the Fuel Filter now

FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #46 · 2 mo ago

NoRalPh said:
OK, so at this point I'm just having fun with ya! (Post #5 AGAIN, ya might seriously consider evaluating your Reading Comprehension skills)

HAHA! Yeah, I used to catch crap for asking my mom where my socks were without actually looking for them. Now, I'm just a 57 year old kid who didn't change his spots.

I did change the fuel filter. Just not the ones in the tank, yet, for obvious reasons.
So....what would YOU do next? A pressure gauge to verify the fuel pressure is low? And if it is, where would you look first? I'm at least feeling better that it's probably not a blown turbo.

NoRalPh

· #47 · 2 mo ago

I have some good links for you that give a good look into what could be going on in the tank. Fuel pressure would be important to know now and you kinda got to get that while on-the-road (same place you're seeing trouble).

Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page

AND, even though you don't have a 1211 code, a Lot of good insight in this one;

Reactions: 1

Buffalohead

· #48 · 2 mo ago

It’s been a long while since I owned a 96. But, in the fuel filter bowl there is a screen that can get clogged and restrict performance severely. If you look down on top of the filter housing you’ll see a fuel line coming off the side and that screen is at that location. Since it was running good then went bad, that may be worth checking.

FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #49 · 2 mo ago

Buffalohead said:
It’s been a long while since I owned a 96. But, in the fuel filter bowl there is a screen that can get clogged and restrict performance severely. If you look down on top of the filter housing you’ll see a fuel line coming off the side and that screen is at that location. Since it was running good then went bad, that may be worth checking.

Is this accessed from inside of the bowl, or is it in-line at the fitting? I haven't seen any mention of this screen in all of my research.

Buffalohead

· #50 · 2 mo ago

It’s in the fitting outside the bowl. My 96 looked like a rat died in that screen the first time I cleaned it at about 60,000 miles.

cghoerichs

· #51 · 2 mo ago

I see it asked multiple times but I don't think I see it answered.

Buffalohead said:
Are the hoses to the intake plenums in good shape and tight? A hole in one of them would make her slow!

I second this. The lack of power but otherwise runs fine symptom is what you get from a hose with a hole or loose. When they blow off it usually comes with a muffled pop sound followed by no power. Either way, truck runs fine but has no power.

FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #52 · 2 mo ago

All things mentioned will be thoroughly investigated this weekend, with the goal of getting this thing going again. I have a fuel guage now, as well, so I should be able to pinpoint this. Thanks again for everyone's help! It's been fantastic.

NoRaLph- Great information. I'm not sure I'll do the bypass, but good to consider if I diagnose it down to that.

Calif250

· #53 · 2 mo ago

If the turbo isn't spooling and the rpms are smooth and fine, it's likely an exhaust leak not providing exhaust pressure to the turbo. OP says no visible soot, although if it happened recently there probably wouldn't be much visible sign of soot anyhow. After ruling out fuel you might want to disconnect the IC piping and check all boots, replace if necessary, then pull the turbo and inspect the turbo and exhaust up pipe donut gaskets.

NoRalPh

· #54 · 2 mo ago

Low Boost, either from a leaking boot or exhaust-side leak, is certainly a possibility,,, but should have thrown a code if the symptoms are as severe as I thought they are. In rereading the first page I see there was a Historical code ("boost sensor A circuit range/performance ") but it didn't return once the codes were cleared?

Am I thinking that that your symptoms are more severe than they are? (at one point it wouldn't start) or do you only see the issue as dropping down below 65mph when climbing hills?

Boost might be an equally good call as Fuel in that case...

Reactions: 1

FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #55 · 2 mo ago

NoRalPh said:
Low Boost, either from a leaking boot or exhaust-side leak, is certainly a possibility,,, but should have thrown a code if the symptoms are as severe as I thought they are. In rereading the first page I see there was a Historical code ("boost sensor A circuit range/performance ") but it didn't return once the codes were cleared?

Am I thinking that that your symptoms are more severe than they are? (at one point it wouldn't start) or do you only see the issue as dropping down below 65mph when climbing hills?

Boost might be an equally good call as Fuel in that case...

The no start thing was not related. It was a user error issue. That's correct, no new codes thrown. I only see the issue when climbing hills, and it just can't get out of it's own way in comparison to when I first picked it up and drove the first 500 miles. But it doesn't miss, cough or sputter at all. As mentioned, I was just cruising along at 70, and it suddenly lost power. Was running great prior to that.

So, today I planned to run a fuel pressure test, but the gauge set I ordered didn't have the right fittings. The boots have some oil around the clamps, but I tightened them all, and didn't see any holes. After tightening, I took it for a quick spin. No difference. The wastegate pushed in manually as well.

Regarding an exhaust leak, just normal inspection? As in listen for it?

Open for any more suggestions while I wait for the right fuel pressure gauge! I now have an open weekend.

Calif250

· #56 · 2 mo ago

Here is the problem with the up pipes. Notice the donut gasket at the top of the pipes. As the motor torques and returns to rest these gaskets will rub and wear on the pipe. Eventually the gasket won't seal any longer due to the pipe wearing down and the resulting gap. If you've experienced this issue, many people upgrade to the bellowed stainless steel up pipes to eliminate this flaw.

Automotive tire Font Gas Auto part Metal

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FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #57 · 2 mo ago

I just ran the injector test again. I read that if you hear a muffled zap on any of the 8 injectors that could be an issue. Sure enough, #2 was muffled as compared to the rest and it is giving me the P1262 DTC. Cylinder #2 High to Low side short.

There were no codes thrown when I first ran the scan, just when I ran that test.

Would that potentially cause the turbo to not spool, or is that something else?

Calif250

· #58 · 2 mo ago

FatBuoy said:
I just ran the injector test again. I read that if you hear a muffled zap on any of the 8 injectors that could be an issue. Sure enough, #2 was muffled as compared to the rest and it is giving me the P1262 DTC. Cylinder #2 High to Low side short.

There were no codes thrown when I first ran the scan, just when I ran that test.

Would that potentially cause the turbo to not spool, or is that something else?

An injector issue could result in poor performance of the motor, unburnt fuel in the exhaust, or other symptoms. It is unlikely it would lead to the turbo to stop working. The turbo performance is likely related to exhaust pressure, turbo health, or back pressure valve operation. Forgive me if I miss something. It's hard to make assessments when you're not the one doing the troubleshooting. If you pull stuff apart, make sure you're using correct torque specs when you put it back together. The IC clamps should not be over torqued.

NoRalPh

· #59 · 2 mo ago

And this is actually the reason we started with Fuel. It's all about Those Codes

When there are none, no Low Boost, cyl misfire, HiPres Oil, and you're having problems, we think Fuel First (again the system has no sensor for this).

So, Check Fuel Delivery, with a pressure gauge, anyway you can as a Start.

Now, everything was fine at first and, along the way you saw a dramatic power loss. If Boost as the cause, then this happening suddenly and wouldn't likely be an existing leak (as soot on the insulated firewall usually shows) but rather a coupler that's slipped and now leaking. If this were Fuel delivery then likely the Filter needed changing as it was "collecting" debris at the high volume that passed thru it at HiWay speeds (you changed that). Next, is those in-tank screens also getting clogged with crap with the increased volume running thru them.

Changing the Fuel Filter and inspecting the IC Boots was a good procedure, now you want to measure fuel pressure to eliminate a delivery problem as the cause and then dive-into a low boost cause (probably requires another gauge).

As in the vid in post #29, you don't get a full analyzation of the IDM & Electrical side of the Injectors until you do a Buzz Test (the reason it came up with that P1262) and this is a reason to have a look at why that's there but, let's fix the current problem first (likely a wiring issue from a chafe or UVCH connector)

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FatBuoy

Discussion Starter · #60 · 2 mo ago

Update- I was finally able to check the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fule bowl. It stayed consistently around 50psi whether at idle or under load.

Buffalohead suggested that there is another filter that can get clogged on the fuel output line (from the bowl). I haven't been able to access that to check it, nor have I seen it referenced anywhere I've read.

Any next step suggestions are welcome. I guess the good news is I don't have to drop the tank!.

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