I downloaded FORScan and ordered the USB to OBD2 port adapter. That comes in from Amazon this evening. Really appreciate everyone's help so far! Do you plug in with the program open then start the vehicle, or does it walk me through it once I plug in? Any step guidance would be appreciated so I can hit the ground running this evening.
New Guy- 1st diesel- turbo seems to have stopped working
FIXED:
I found a picture of where the MAP hose runs, then went out to the RV to find it. Holy crap! The end of the hose that attaches to that box, sensor or whatever it is had popped off. It was hidden, and I feel lucky I found it. Attached it, and BOOM runs like a champ.
That little sucker just popped off when I was halfway between Chicago and Dallas before sunrise. If only I would have known what to look for, the rest of that trip would have been WAY less stressful and I wouldn't have bothered you all. CASE CLOSED.
____
Hi all- I did do a search, but didn't see exactly what I'm experiencing.
I bought an E350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke in Chicago yesterday, and drove it to Dallas. It's actually a 21' RV on the E350 cutaway chassis.
This morning, I'm motoring along at 70 on cruise control. It had been running well for about 500 miles. All of a sudden, the cruise control shuts down. I figured there was just a glitch, so hit the gas to get back to to 70. No power.
I should say lower power. I made it the rest of the way home, probably another 400 miles, but it was a dog. I could get it to 65 on the flats, but as soon as there was any incline it would drop, sometimes enough to where it had to downshift. There was never a noise, or smoke, and it never got hot.
I'm pretty sure the turbo isn't spooling up. Is it possible for it to run without the turbo spooling at all? The stuff I've read so far is that if a turbo goes out, you will see smoke, hear it, etc.
It doesn't miss or sputter. The power delivery is smooth, just very weak. It's at 108,000 miles by the way.
Would REALLY appreciate any insights. It's quite a bummer to have stuff happen on your way home from a new purchase. And I know nothing about diesels. Guess I'm about to learn!
I found a picture of where the MAP hose runs, then went out to the RV to find it. Holy crap! The end of the hose that attaches to that box, sensor or whatever it is had popped off. It was hidden, and I feel lucky I found it. Attached it, and BOOM runs like a champ.
That little sucker just popped off when I was halfway between Chicago and Dallas before sunrise. If only I would have known what to look for, the rest of that trip would have been WAY less stressful and I wouldn't have bothered you all. CASE CLOSED.
____
Hi all- I did do a search, but didn't see exactly what I'm experiencing.
I bought an E350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke in Chicago yesterday, and drove it to Dallas. It's actually a 21' RV on the E350 cutaway chassis.
This morning, I'm motoring along at 70 on cruise control. It had been running well for about 500 miles. All of a sudden, the cruise control shuts down. I figured there was just a glitch, so hit the gas to get back to to 70. No power.
I should say lower power. I made it the rest of the way home, probably another 400 miles, but it was a dog. I could get it to 65 on the flats, but as soon as there was any incline it would drop, sometimes enough to where it had to downshift. There was never a noise, or smoke, and it never got hot.
I'm pretty sure the turbo isn't spooling up. Is it possible for it to run without the turbo spooling at all? The stuff I've read so far is that if a turbo goes out, you will see smoke, hear it, etc.
It doesn't miss or sputter. The power delivery is smooth, just very weak. It's at 108,000 miles by the way.
Would REALLY appreciate any insights. It's quite a bummer to have stuff happen on your way home from a new purchase. And I know nothing about diesels. Guess I'm about to learn!
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
AGAIN,,,, Post #5 has a link at the bottom to a thread that has all that information in it. How to set-up and use ForScan as well as TorqueApp (ForScan will the better choice for what you need now).
I do try to be through....
I do try to be through....
Virtual hand slapping accepted.AGAIN,,,, Post #5 has a link at the bottom to a thread that has all that information in it. How to set-up and use ForScan as well as TorqueApp (ForScan will the better choice for what you need now).
I do try to be through....
What version do you have ?
Go into options and set to Imperial
Activate Demo mode, and you can mess around with the screens while waiting on the adapter
Go into options and set to Imperial
Activate Demo mode, and you can mess around with the screens while waiting on the adapter
v2.3.51What version do you have ?
Go into options and set to Imperial
Activate Demo mode, and you can mess around with the screens while waiting on the adapter
OK, really was asking if you have the PC version or one of the phone apps
don't need the license for troubleshooting, only for programming
2.3.51 is the pc version
goto options and set to Imperial
then check the Demo
Mess around with the little Ford Focus that is loaded into the demo
can't hurt anything, so have fun
don't need the license for troubleshooting, only for programming
2.3.51 is the pc version
goto options and set to Imperial
then check the Demo
Mess around with the little Ford Focus that is loaded into the demo
can't hurt anything, so have fun
Oh boy. So I set everything up, and followed the instructions. Pretty straight forward. I ran the first two tests, and was taking screenshots of the results. The first one showed a high to low side short on the #2 injector.
I started running the second set of tests, which has 6 subtests for the overall test.
I get an exhaust pressure sensor circuit malfunction
IAT sensor circuit high input
CPM Circuit sensor fault
Turbo Charger boost sensor A circuit range/performance
Power interruption on KAPWR circuit.
I mean, that seems like a lot of DTCs, and I'm not even done.
I get to number 3, I believe, and it said the motor has to be warm. So, I tried to start it. No dice. Just cranked and cranked. So I unplugged the adapter and tried to start it. No dice. Let it sit for about 30 minutes- same.
Any thoughts?
I started running the second set of tests, which has 6 subtests for the overall test.
I get an exhaust pressure sensor circuit malfunction
IAT sensor circuit high input
CPM Circuit sensor fault
Turbo Charger boost sensor A circuit range/performance
Power interruption on KAPWR circuit.
I mean, that seems like a lot of DTCs, and I'm not even done.
I get to number 3, I believe, and it said the motor has to be warm. So, I tried to start it. No dice. Just cranked and cranked. So I unplugged the adapter and tried to start it. No dice. Let it sit for about 30 minutes- same.
Any thoughts?
Take note of all the dtc's. Then erase them all and try starting it up. Plug back in and record what comes up.
OK, so you've recorded what you found, much of what's there might be History that's not relevant to the problem you now have though.
So, the process is, note what's there, Erase All Codes, start 'er up, maybe take it for a drive and see what comes back right away (the most urgent codes come back quickly)
With that #2 fault, you might want to do a Buzz Test...
So, the process is, note what's there, Erase All Codes, start 'er up, maybe take it for a drive and see what comes back right away (the most urgent codes come back quickly)
With that #2 fault, you might want to do a Buzz Test...
Erased all codes and it still won't start.
When I fist plugged it in it said no DTCs, but as I started to run the tests, that's when they started popping us.
When I fist plugged it in it said no DTCs, but as I started to run the tests, that's when they started popping us.
This round fuel filter cap is easily removed by oil filter wrench that you use to remove your oil filter.Should be just one. View attachment 792342 The big cylindrical object
Have enough battery charge?Erased all codes and it still won't start.
When I fist plugged it in it said no DTCs, but as I started to run the tests, that's when they started popping us.
Had replaced the fuel filter as a first step yesterday. I did get it started (ask if you want the new guy to be embarrassed) drove a bit, scanned, and no codes. I’m really wondering if it’s the tank filters.
When I had an exhaust leak the turbo wouldn't spool. But it also threw a low boost pressure code. If the motor revs up then it's likely not a fuel supply issue. It would choke and sputter when you're giving it throttle. Did you do the buzz test on the injectors? I would run a bottle of injector cleaner through the tank next time you run it for a good distance. Is there excess soot in the engine bay? Especially toward the firewall where the up pipes connect to the y-pipe before the turbo?
No buzz test yet. No sputtering. No soot. And I have the doghouse cover off of it while driving so can see the whole back of the engine. I'm not sure I want to drive it for much distance, unless that's ok. Is it ok to drive it like that? It's just trying so hard to get up to any speed.
Are the hoses to the intake plenums in good shape and tight? A hole in one of them would make her slow!
Other ideas would be to check for a stuck exhaust back pressure valve, and is it an aftermarket turbo with a wastegate that’s stuck open?
I'll start doing a more exhaustive visual inspection. But, wouldn't these things all throw codes when running a FORScan check?
My other question is, can you get rid of historical DTCs, or is it designed to keep them stored? Just to confirm, when I first run the scan, that's when any existing DTC would pop up, but when running tests, those are either current or historical? Or am I getting this wrong?
My other question is, can you get rid of historical DTCs, or is it designed to keep them stored? Just to confirm, when I first run the scan, that's when any existing DTC would pop up, but when running tests, those are either current or historical? Or am I getting this wrong?
Clear the codes, then cycle the key (do not start the engine) , check for codes again
if all is clear -- start the engine -- check for codes again
anything new is an active code -- and a problem
Sometimes running the tests will set a code, but that is not necessarily a problem
what you are looking for is a code that is set during "normal" operation
then move to sleuthing individual tests
Note: you will need to run the IDM test to access the codes stored there -- just a quirk of the IDM system
otherwise there may just be a generic code indicating "something is wrong" -- but not code for specifics
if all is clear -- start the engine -- check for codes again
anything new is an active code -- and a problem
Sometimes running the tests will set a code, but that is not necessarily a problem
what you are looking for is a code that is set during "normal" operation
then move to sleuthing individual tests
Note: you will need to run the IDM test to access the codes stored there -- just a quirk of the IDM system
otherwise there may just be a generic code indicating "something is wrong" -- but not code for specifics
In any NoStart condition we want to monitor these 4 Important parameters while trying to start;
ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors)
IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)
CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)
CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v)
ICP Pressure ~ (in PSI plz, the PCM requires something over 500 before it will trigger the IDM to fire the injectors)
IPR% ~ (shows how Hard the system is having to work to make that ICP pressure)
CRANKING RPM ~ (PCM requires above 100rpm ~ 150 is typical)
CRANKING Voltage ~ (in an '02 PCM requires it not drop below 9v, in a 2000 and under not below 10v)
21 - 40 of 70 Posts
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