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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installed my ISSPRO EV2 HPOP and Fuel Pressure gauges today.
At idle, Fuel Pressure is about 66psi.

At WOT on 100 Performance PHP tune, it bounced back and forth between 15-25psi. Fuel filter has just under 10,000 miles on it. As far as I know, this is the original fuel pump with about 371,000 miles on it

At WOT on 120 Race PHP tune, the fuel pressure bounced around 10-15psi

On 80 DD PHP tune, the fuel pressure dropped to about 35psi at WOT but it stays around 55psi during all other driving at this setting unless WOT

The HPOP seems fine 500 psi at idle and at WOT on same setting as above it goes up to about 3300psi. I have a brand new Adrenaline HPOP

Should I be looking at a new fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, never have. But that is disgusting so that might be on my to do list if I don't replace the complete fuel system with the complete IDP system
 

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I wouldn't be dropping fuel pressure below 45 any more. You could damage your injectors.
Definitely do the hutch/ harpoon mods and rebuild the fpr. No need for a full fuel system with 160/0's. You could also add Corey's quad feed or a frx.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. My fall plans are to rebuild a spare motor sitting in my garage and do Irate's 500hp combo so i might as well get started a little sooner than later.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I tried the bb mod today to get the fuel pressures up.

First I removed the Torx screws and cap
Then I put a .177 / 4.5mm bb between the spring and the cap.
My fuel pressure went to 100 psi after the fuel bowl refilled.
Removed bb and fuel pressure went back down to just over 65 at idle.

My problem of terrible fuel pressure under max throttle, stated in the first post still exists. I didn't see any type of screen that needed cleaning and the poppet valve looked good, with a tiny hole in the end.
Suggestions for getting this little mod to work without having 100psi?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just curious how difficult this is to get to. Not necessarily ready to do the hutch/harpoon mod but checking the filter in the tank is looking more and more like something I need to do before I pull the trigger on a $1000 kit

Have you ever cleaned the in-tank filters located on the fuel pickup?

 

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The bb mod is used to boost fuel pressure. That's about it. To clean the screens you need to drop the tank. Huge pain in the butt. Might as well do the hutch/harpoon mods. No need to get a $1000 fuel system with your injectors. Just get this. https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2662-driven-diesel-fuel-tank-pre-pump-kit-hutch-mod.aspx

I would specify that you have an excursion and need more fuel line. It needs the same amount as a cab and chassis.
 

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I think you really need to figure out what your plans are and when you really will get to doing the things you are planning.

If you want 500 hp the stock fuel system will be at its limits but will work. If you want a system that you wont have to worry about and will easily support your 500 goal then the Irate kit is nice.

You can get a hutch mod for the $200, a Regulated return for about $450 -$500 and keep your fuel bowl, or get the fuel bowl delete and put you close to the $1,000 you would spend anyways cause you then need a post pump filter kit.....

If you do a hutch mod now and get a fuel kit later you will be dropping your tank again, ask me how I know.

The hutch mod gets rid of those screens, so does the Irate fuel kit.

Do your research and decide what you want to do once or multiple times.

I say buy the kit now, your going to anyways down the road. And who knows if your screens are even the problem? You could pull the whole thing apart to find the screen clean as can be. Mine were and have 190K on them.....Its my pump that failed.

Just trying to save you cash and time based on my personal experiences.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, that is what I'm leaning towards. I know I'm going to the 500+ hp mark its just a matter of spending the money.

I have to run out of State for the next few days and will drop the tank when I get back Monday when its empty. I don't mind dropping it more than once, since I'm retired and have unlimited access to a full service shop.

If I can drop the canister and check the screens and they are clean, I'll order the Irate kit next week and forget about it. If the screens are dirty, I'll see if I can use that $ to buy my T4 turbo and hybrid injectors. Either way, tax man returneth, 7.3 taketh.


I think you really need to figure out what your plans are and when you really will get to doing the things you are planning.

If you want 500 hp the stock fuel system will be at its limits but will work. If you want a system that you wont have to worry about and will easily support your 500 goal then the Irate kit is nice.

You can get a hutch mod for the $200, a Regulated return for about $450 -$500 and keep your fuel bowl, or get the fuel bowl delete and put you close to the $1,000 you would spend anyways cause you then need a post pump filter kit.....

If you do a hutch mod now and get a fuel kit later you will be dropping your tank again, ask me how I know.

The hutch mod gets rid of those screens, so does the Irate fuel kit.

Do your research and decide what you want to do once or multiple times.

I say buy the kit now, your going to anyways down the road. And who knows if your screens are even the problem? You could pull the whole thing apart to find the screen clean as can be. Mine were and have 190K on them.....Its my pump that failed.

Just trying to save you cash and time based on my personal experiences.
 

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To check if the screens are the problem, disconnect the fuel line at the pump and run it to a can of diesel. If your fuel pressure problems go away with this test then the pump is ok and the screens are clogged. If the fuel pressure doesn't improve then you have a pump issue.

Another test for fuel flow is to open the canister drain and turn the ignition on....you should get a steady flow of fuel. This however won't prove whether it's the pump or filters if the flow is less than optimal.
 

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Thanks, that is what I'm leaning towards. I know I'm going to the 500+ hp mark its just a matter of spending the money.

I have to run out of State for the next few days and will drop the tank when I get back Monday when its empty. I don't mind dropping it more than once, since I'm retired and have unlimited access to a full service shop.

If I can drop the canister and check the screens and they are clean, I'll order the Irate kit next week and forget about it. If the screens are dirty, I'll see if I can use that $ to buy my T4 turbo and hybrid injectors. Either way, tax man returneth, 7.3 taketh.
Ah, a shop would be nice to have access to. A buddy just installed a lift in his shop and ill be taking full advantage of that whenever possible.

Both time's ive dropped my tank were while laying on my back in gravel. Luckily I did some research first and had an empty tank both times to make it somewhat easier.

Good luck with whatever you do. hopefully its just the screens and you can buy some go fast parts!
 

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It wouldn't hurt at your mileage to put on a new OEM pump. Can be had on Amazon prime for around $80. I did a few months back and my truck maintains 60-62 psi in my all out tune from GearHead and that's with the stock fuel bowl and stock pick up that's never been serviced. Just running the standard Driven Diesel regulated return set at 62.5 psi.
Then if you still have an issue, check the screens.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Never thought about doing that. Thanks. My problem is only present at WOT under a full load under 100 or 120 HP settings. Other than that, it holds pressure over 50psi while on every other tune. At idle, it stays steady at 62 ish.



To check if the screens are the problem, disconnect the fuel line at the pump and run it to a can of diesel. If your fuel pressure problems go away with this test then the pump is ok and the screens are clogged. If the fuel pressure doesn't improve then you have a pump issue.

Another test for fuel flow is to open the canister drain and turn the ignition on....you should get a steady flow of fuel. This however won't prove whether it's the pump or filters if the flow is less than optimal.
 

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Never thought about doing that. Thanks. My problem is only present at WOT under a full load under 100 or 120 HP settings. Other than that, it holds pressure over 50psi while on every other tune. At idle, it stays steady at 62 ish.
sounds like the screens as a bad pump would do it all the time. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So had a few hours yesterday to drop the tank and check the screens. They were maybe 30% blocked. Cleaned them and reinstalled.
Also found the foot of the pickup broken off so I replaced it with a new one


It was broken off right at the top of the pickup, not up the shaft where I've seen most broken.
Also cut off a couple inches of the filler neck to do the Harpoon Mod

This is what was left after cutting off the extra.

Haven't filled it up yet to see the difference.

I did notice an increase in fuel pressure at WOT on the 100HP and 120HP settings but not enough. Going to have to keep looking for problems.
At about 80% throttle the fuel pressure stays around 45psi. At 100% WOT on the above settings, the fuel pressure still drops to around 25 psi.
 

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If screens are clean, fuel filter is new and your only seeing a drop when mashin on it then sounds like pump is getting weak.
 

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I still think you have a fpr issue. A rebuild kit is $65. A new pump is $125.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I still think you have a fpr issue. A rebuild kit is $65. A new pump is $125.
Thanks. I agree. I'm going to try this before buying the fuel pump. I found one on eBay last night that ended up selling for $21 dollars. I found it about an hour before the bidding ended and then had to deal with a teenager who raised my blood pressure a few degrees and I didn't get back to bid on it until it ended. Oh well.

I'm going to order the Guzzle kit tomorrow which has a new housing and the three springs. I figure if these don't work and I end up buying the Irate Diesel kit, I can always give my dad the new parts I end up buying.
 
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