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New build

2665 Views 31 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Racer71, 
Leevicious5
I recently bought a 6.4 and am in the process of putting her back together she’s in pieces right now! I’m doing new radiator, intercooler, thermostats, oil cooler, coolant hoses and radiator support from Mishimoto, fluidamp balancer, new low pressure oil pump and front cover new belts. All new charge pipes air intake coolant filter system from sinister diesel, up pipes, deletes with h&s racing tuner. New seals on turbo. O dawg ported intake new rocker arms with billet bridges and push rods from Rudy’s. Ccv reroute, arp studs new head gaskets. Set of icon series aluminum o-ringed heads from killsdevil maybe a few other small things I’ve forgot. Is there anything else anyone would recommend doing while I’ve got it apart? This is my first 6.4 it’s been a fun little project everything’s been done cab on (without even lifting it) so far!
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Leevicious5
Ogre_ said:
Yes, I was talking about the icon heads. Trash from casting and machining. I had a piece I could hear rattling around internally that I THINK I got out. But they are effin sweet heads.

Man, I went back and forth on the hpfp, but given the low miles on mine, and availability/reported reliability of replacements, I kept oem. Really not too bad to replace later if it craps the bed. Also figured since I kept stock injectors, I'd defer that cost until the pump failed.

I hear ya on the pistons and cam and costs. I went through much the same thought process (the exception being that the cam and lifter were the root failure on mine). My regerts would probably be not doing rods (expensive), and definitely those effin valve covers.
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Are the oem valve covers a problem area? I’ve been looking at some from Rudy’s they’re blue like the charge pipes air filter kit and water pump I got from sinister, I wanted to get them just because they looked cool but couldn’t justify $1200 for covers because they look cool! If the oem ones are a problem I may can change my mind!!
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6LiterTeter
Leevicious5 said:
Not really, I had h&s on my 09’ dodge and the delete kit I got came with that tuner so I just went with it. I’m not really using it for anything other than to run the truck smoothly with the deletes
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I’ve personally seen a lot of those tunes kill a lot of trucks. Controversial, I’m sure. All depends on how that tuned truck is cared for otherwise. My 2 cents… a simple
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tune with otherwise stock calibration should be all you need with a healthy 6.4. They make crazy power and pull hard (until they blow up) without aftermarket performance tuning. I think that is why the guy I know that looks like Tiger King and listens to Def Leppard and drives a 6.4 with lots of miles hasn’t blown his up. He actually might be Tiger King.
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O
Leevicious5 said:
Are the oem valve covers a problem area? I’ve been looking at some from Rudy’s they’re blue like the charge pipes air filter kit and water pump I got from sinister, I wanted to get them just because they looked cool but couldn’t justify $1200 for covers because they look cool! If the oem ones are a problem I may can change my mind!!
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No, OEM valve covers are fine. I was referring the 2k choate covers that I attempted. The oiling function was sweet, but fitment and machining were a big problem, and getting my money back has been troublesome.
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R
If you aren’t swapping the cam, at least do lifters. My truck had a new pump on it when i got it with two bad cylinders. I ended doing a new pump and bigger injectors just because I was hoping to avoid failure.
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krazyk
Leevicious5 said:
I wanted to get them just because they looked cool but couldn’t justify $1200 for covers because they look cool!
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Waste of money. Can't see them anyway. Cool project.
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krazyk
Racer71 said:
at least do lifters.
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You must replace them or pay later when they self destruct.
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Leevicious5
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getting close,if I can get these damn coolant hose connections to seat properly it’ll be time to fire her up!
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Leevicious5
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Vice_II
Props to you for taking this on and sharing with us.
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Leevicious5
Every time I think I’m getting somewhere something else goes wrong! Back in it we go to replace the #3 injector. Is there any tips for bleeding air out the fuel system? I’m not so sure it’s not just air in the system still causing it to throw the code for unbalanced #3 there was codes for #3 #6 and #7. 6 and 7 cleared up has I got more air out the system. Also has anyone installed the sinister degas reservoir? I ordered one but was curious how it installs or rather how you separate the oem from the battery tray?
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Leevicious5 said:
Every time I think I’m getting somewhere something else goes wrong! Back in it we go to replace the #3 injector. Is there any tips for bleeding air out the fuel system? I’m not so sure it’s not just air in the system still causing it to throw the code for unbalanced #3 there was codes for #3 #6 and #7. 6 and 7 cleared up has I got more air out the system. Also has anyone installed the sinister degas reservoir? I ordered one but was curious how it installs or rather how you separate the oem from the battery tray?
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I cant help much. There's plenty of videos out there on bleeding. I did the research, built the fittings, then couldn't help myself and tried starting before bleeding. Fired right up. I do have an aftermarket lift pump and no fuel bowl, so maybe that's why. At least the injectors aren't too bad to get to, cant reuse those lines though..
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R
With a lift pump it’s pretty easy typically, otherwise hooked to schrader valve until it runs clear.
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