You know the rule, pics or get out.
New build
I recently bought a 6.4 and am in the process of putting her back together she’s in pieces right now! I’m doing new radiator, intercooler, thermostats, oil cooler, coolant hoses and radiator support from Mishimoto, fluidamp balancer, new low pressure oil pump and front cover new belts. All new charge pipes air intake coolant filter system from sinister diesel, up pipes, deletes with h&s racing tuner. New seals on turbo. O dawg ported intake new rocker arms with billet bridges and push rods from Rudy’s. Ccv reroute, arp studs new head gaskets. Set of icon series aluminum o-ringed heads from killsdevil maybe a few other small things I’ve forgot. Is there anything else anyone would recommend doing while I’ve got it apart? This is my first 6.4 it’s been a fun little project everything’s been done cab on (without even lifting it) so far!
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My opinion, I would do oem damper instead of fluid damper. Pistons, cam, and lifters. I tried to make two of the mishimoto rad braces work, put a lot of lateral pressure on the OEM plastic rad tank, sent em back. Put couple screws in insulation hanging down on turbos. You using the metal coolant tubes from dorman?
I got a coolant hose kit from mishimoto im not sure if it’s metal or what it’s supposed to be in todayMy opinion, I would do oem damper instead of fluid damper. Pistons, cam, and lifters. I tried to make two of the mishimoto rad braces work, put a lot of lateral pressure on the OEM plastic rad tank, sent em back. Put couple screws in insulation hanging down on turbos. You using the metal coolant tubes from dorman?
Ten fo. Piston size tbd after machinist determines overbore btw. Also hpfp gasket/harness while it's easily accessible, and ta 31. Also be sure to thoroughly clean out the heads with compressed air, mine had lots of trash in them.
What’s wrong with the fluid damper?maybe the rad brace will work considering I got a new radiator and intercooler from them as well. The new charge pipes aren’t flat like the old ones I read that this brace would give me the clearance so I didn’t have to cut and weaken the other one to make the new charge pipes fit. Idk though I’ll find out when I get to putting all that back on I suppose. Hopefully it goes back together as smoothly has it came apart!My opinion, I would do oem damper instead of fluid damper. Pistons, cam, and lifters. I tried to make two of the mishimoto rad braces work, put a lot of lateral pressure on the OEM plastic rad tank, sent em back. Put couple screws in insulation hanging down on turbos. You using the metal coolant tubes from dorman?
I’m ordering new heads today the aluminum heads from kill devil today. Got my heads back from the machine shop yesterday both were cracked. Should I change the high pressure fuel pump as well? I was trying to not do anything with the pistons and cam to save money but honestly I’ve spent so much already there’s no turning back might as well get it rightTen fo. Piston size tbd after machinist determines overbore btw. Also hpfp gasket/harness while it's easily accessible, and ta 31. Also be sure to thoroughly clean out the heads with compressed air, mine had lots of trash in them.
Just what I read about the dampers, and cost to benefit ratio. I used OEM and balanced damper, crank, flex plate to 5k. Brace ought to work better with their radiator, I read the same and was tired of looking at mine sloppily cut. Cleaned up the cut and painted oem.
Yes, I was talking about the icon heads. Trash from casting and machining. I had a piece I could hear rattling around internally that I THINK I got out. But they are effin sweet heads.I’m ordering new heads today the aluminum heads from kill devil today. Got my heads back from the machine shop yesterday both were cracked. Should I change the high pressure fuel pump as well? I was trying to not do anything with the pistons and cam to save money but honestly I’ve spent so much already there’s no turning back might as well get it right
Man, I went back and forth on the hpfp, but given the low miles on mine, and availability/reported reliability of replacements, I kept oem. Really not too bad to replace later if it craps the bed. Also figured since I kept stock injectors, I'd defer that cost until the pump failed.
I hear ya on the pistons and cam and costs. I went through much the same thought process (the exception being that the cam and lifter were the root failure on mine). My regerts would probably be not doing rods (expensive), and definitely those effin valve covers.
10-4 yeah I already got the fluid damper on I’ll try it out I damn sure don’t want to fight it back off, the old one was on pretty tight! In your opinion would it be a bad idea if I just left the pistons and what not be and if/when they fail just order a short block from kill devil. That’s kinda what I planned but I’ve also already dumped more into it than I expectedJust what I read about the dampers, and cost to benefit ratio. I used OEM and balanced damper, crank, flex plate to 5k. Brace ought to work better with their radiator, I read the same and was tired of looking at mine sloppily cut. Cleaned up the cut and painted oem.
Ok are they good heads? I’ll make sure to clean them good before install! Thanks man!Yes, I was talking about the icon heads. Trash from casting and machining. I had a piece I could hear rattling around internally that I THINK I got out. But they are effin sweet heads.
Man, I went back and forth on the hpfp, but given the low miles on mine, and availability/reported reliability of replacements, I kept oem. Really not too bad to replace later if it craps the bed. Also figured since I kept stock injectors, I'd defer that cost until the pump failed.
I hear ya on the pistons and cam and costs. I went through much the same thought process (the exception being that the cam and lifter were the root failure on mine). My regerts would probably be not doing rods (expensive), and definitely those effin valve covers.
Odd, mine slipped on and off pretty easy, also as I used the damper as a leverage point to clear oil pan over k member, and cracked my old one, its good to have the old one on for install.10-4 yeah I already got the fluid damper on I’ll try it out I damn sure don’t want to fight it back off, the old one was on pretty tight! In your opinion would it be a bad idea if I just left the pistons and what not be and if/when they fail just order a short block from kill devil. That’s kinda what I planned but I’ve also already dumped more into it than I expected
Subjective decision on short block, I was in for a penny in for a pound, and knew I'd be stripping it all the way down from the beginning to get at the cam. Also, I hate leaks, and that gave me the opportunity to have a bone dry engine on the outside, read beadplate
Yeah mine slipped off east once the bolts came out, but they were on tight. I ended up buying a big impact to break them looseOdd, mine slipped on and off pretty easy, also as I used the damper as a leverage point to clear oil pan over k member, and cracked my old one, its good to have the old one on for install.
Subjective decision on short block, I was in for a penny in for a pound, and knew I'd be stripping it all the way down from the beginning to get at the cam. Also, I hate leaks, and that gave me the opportunity to have a bone dry engine on the outside, read beadplate
Them duralast belts I see in that picture? Take that crap back and get you some gates green belts!
Where do you get them? That’s just what the parts house hadThem duralast belts I see in that picture? Take that crap back and get you some gates green belts!
rockauto carries gates, at least for my 6.0Where do you get them? That’s just what the parts house had
im sure some of the auto retailers sell them
advance, autozone, oreilly
Have you done your homework on h&s?
Not really, I had h&s on my 09’ dodge and the delete kit I got came with that tuner so I just went with it. I’m not really using it for anything other than to run the truck smoothly with the deletesHave you done your homework on h&s?
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