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Discussion Starter #1
Hello 1st Diesel for me just purchased over last weekend. Need to pickup a truck camper ~3klb (not a behemoth) but wondering about when I can be okay to tow. Read manual says 1000k so I am ~400ish right now after bringing it home from out of state should be close to 1000 by the time I make trip next week to pickup camper.

Any suggestions for break in in the meantime would be welcome. Next when should I do my 1st oil change.

Thanks in advance.
 

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The monitor will tell you when to change.

3K lbs is nothing. Tow away.
 

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Do not change the oil till the message pops on the dash. Drive the truck, enjoy the camper.
 

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Agreed, just stick with the Oil Life Monitor and tow as you please.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. Manual kinda ambiguous regarding "don't go to fast" and things like that during break in. Someone on another forum mentioned the rear end needing to break in due to to new metals heating up underway during normal break in and not to load the drive train up to much during that period. I am going to be close mileage wise as I get to my destination so it's gonna be all good.

Thanks again
 

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I break in the race bike motors with a half dozen dyno pulls. 15 miles tops. Lol.
 
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Welcome to the org! The newer diesels fuel systems are more sensitive to the current diesel. Highly recommended a diesel fuel additive. There are MANY available but some common ones that have good reputations are:

Diesel Kleen/Power Service
Howes
Stanadyne
Opti-Lube
*There are more out there of course but the above have proven themselves with other forums, third party testing and Im 99% even Cummins Diesel officially endorses Diesel Kleen etc.

Diesel Kleen and Howes are super easy to find at local retailers and just about every gas station/truck stop. The 6.7l fuel trucks fuel pumps get their lubrication from diesel and its been shown to not be enough. There were slight changes in 2015 with a newer design but its still prone. Not to scare you or anything but a fuel additive is just part of the newer diesel owners life.
 
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My first oil change was at about 3000 miles. In the future I will probably go with the oil life monitor unless I plan to be on a longer trip then I will most likely change it early before I leave. I started towing right after I drove it home. Always get diesel from high volume locations. The little out of the way spot that has diesel for a few cents cheaper is probably not the place to go.
 

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lets see what a 3000 lbs slide in truck camper looks like
mine was listed at 4k actual 5k
those camper weights are a joke
do you have your tie down system yet ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yes parts ordered. Torklift FRT/RRs Super Magnum Hitch. Due to be installed on Thursday.
 

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1. Introduction
I'm NOT an oil expert but wanted to share some of my own Virgin Oil Analysis results. The larger file that contains Rotella T4 10W30, Rotella T5 10W30 and Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w40 are my personal own analysis I had paid for through Black Stone Labs, the Rotella T6 5W40 and the Amsoil 5W40 are from other individuals. All oils are CK4 rated.

2. Discussion
From these results, by the numbers (Anti-wear, Detergents, Dispersants, Viscosity) it would appear that Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5W40 is the better "Full Synthetic" oil out of all these samples to include Amsoil.

Another interesting observation is that there isn't much of a difference between Rotella T5 10W30 Synthetic Blend and Rotella T6 5W40 Full Synthetic. And if you really think about it, why pay more for synthetic when the anti-wear and additives packages are similar between the blends and full synthetics.

Something interesting to note is that both Rotella T4 and T5 10W30 do not meet Fords minimum Phosphorus levels of 1000 PPM, yet both are on Fords approved oil list.

3. Conclusions
In my opinion Rotella T5 10W30 is just as good as Rotella T6 5W40 (when comparing the numbers). If you want to pay more for a full synthetic then thats up to you. These tests don't reflect the base oil quality and that is where one could debate which base oil is best, but when comparing the other packages they are all similar. And it shows that Amsoil is NOT the best but is similar to the other brands.

Again, I'm not an oil expert and don't have all the answers, but I find it interesting when people just say Amsoil is the best yet have no proof to show for it except for "I know a guy, who knows a guy, who knows an uncle that says Amsoil is the best" or shows test results from Amsoil and only Amsoil.

I'm not saying Amsoil is a bad oil, I just think all their hype is not worth spending hundreds of dollars for their product when I can go down the street and pick up Rotella or Valvoline. But to each their own.
 

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IMO base Dino vs Full Synth base stock; is the Synthetic will be more resistant to heat degradation than Dino or Dino blends. Thus the base stock lubrication properties will persist longer.

This provides a marginal increase in protection commensurate with oil change intervals and overall operating temperatures.

Given manufacturers’ longer change interval suggestions and higher operating temperatures on modern engines; I’m sticking with full synthetic for the extra $1/Qt.

Fractional Distillation of crude oil gives you a range of molecular weight oils. Synthetic gives a manufactured lot of all the same size particles. The lower MW oils in the Dino blend will degrade faster. The Synthetic will provide a more consistent and predictable package.

Now if you’re changing oil very frequently, you have an engine that runs cool, or fuel dilution is an issue for your truck (I’m talking to you 6.4L...) then the synthetic delta will be negated.
 

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GrewWork, I completely agree. If you're changing oil frequently as in every 3-5k miles then a Dino oil will be fine. If you're changing your oil every 10-15k miles then a full synthetic would be better. Is it necessary, will you're engine blow up if you don't use synthetic? The answer is....no. Is full synthetic better? The answer is...yes. Do you want to go 10-15k on Dino....In my opinion....NO.

Also, is today's oil better than 1970's oil? Of course it is. If an individual wants to go 10-15k on Dino, then do an oil analysis and check first to see if your oil has some life left in it before running long oil change intervals.

But honestly to ensure you maintain your warranty, follow the owners manual.
 

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Also I've had numerous conversations with Shell, Valvoline, Amsoil, Schaeffer, and HotShots. They all say the same thing. Its not the base oil that breaks down, its the additive package that breakdown first and thats why oil needs to be changed at certain intervals.

Lastly the debate between Dino, Blends and Full synthetic has been debated for years. Run whatever you want. If someone wants to spend $200 on 3 gallons of oil? Then so be it. If someone would rather spend $50 on oil, then go for it. Just change your oil on a regular basis and your engine will be just fine.
 

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Yes, the additive package is there to negate all the bad things that combustion introduces to the oil (soot, water, heat, acids, etc). Kind of like the sacrificial zinc rod in a water heater or steel ground tank.
 

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3-5k oil change...oof. I think MC 10w30 is non synthetic and they say 5-8. I go 6 or 7 towing half the time with 5w40 before the light comes on. And I think Ford is being conservative with the oil minder.
 

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3-5k oil change...oof. I think MC 10w30 is non synthetic and they say 5-8. I go 6 or 7 towing half the time with 5w40 before the light comes on. And I think Ford is being conservative with the oil minder.
Yeah, 3-5k in my opinion a little extreme, however there are some Powerstroke Youtubers that recommend at least a 5k mile oil change.

Even though I mention that Valvoline seems to be the better oil I'm actually running Rotella T6 5W40 right now. And I am sticking with a 10k mile oil change interval. I've ran Valvoline and currently testing different oils.
 

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there are some Powerstroke Youtubers that recommend at least a 5k mile oil change.
Yeah, and I put as much value in most of them as I do in......well.....not much.
Some are good when it comes to mechanics. I just don't put an ounce of faith in "influencers" getting paid on the back end.
 
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