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I understand what you’re saying. And I agree that I have been cranking this engine much longer that it should’ve taken, but there is zero run time on this engine.
with the icp sensor in, 1.5psi, ipr at 85%.
icp sensor out, or unplugged, 953psi, ipr at 42% I think? I think the valve is working.
I honestly think there’s a ton of air trapped within the system.
First off, the drop in IPR% means nothing since the ECM is working off of an inferred ICP value and the IPR duty cycle is a commanded value, not actual....so it's not telling you squat about if the valve is working or not....just that the valve is being told not to open as far since the fake ICP value is higher. To check this properly, you've gotta watch the trends and see if HPO pressure rises when the valve is commanded differently.....if your tool can do that.

Your choice to keep cranking, but AT MOST....if everything was as it should be, should only take about 15 minutes of cranking to get enough oil through the system to get it to spit/sputter and start trying to fire...yes even on a completely dry system. IMO somethings wrong. Gonna be counterintuitive to what you've been doing, but I'd start with checking the IPR screen like suggested and do an air test while you're there to check for leaks on the HPO side. If that passes, move to the LPO side and check for volume/pressure. Pop the LPO regulator out of the housing and make sure it's not sticking/stuck and the spring is in good shape.

You said you "rebuilt" it....what exactly was entailed in the rebuild? People use the same words, but they often have different meanings/interpretations. Knowing exactly what you did/what areas you were in can help us point to other things to check.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The commanded value is not actual? The valve reacts to the pressure indicated regardless if they pressure is actual (icp in) or inferred (icp out), correct?
the ipr valve is brand new. Zero run time on it. Zero pressure applied to it to push anything through the screen.
Maybe I got a valve for a different ymm? I say that because I have an ‘05 engine in an ‘04 chassis. I may have ordered that valve with the vin#.
I did a total engine rebuild. From bare block up. Cut crank, new bearings, main and rod. New connecting rods, pistons, rings. New cam bearings. Cam was reusable.heads were checked, machined And orings were installed. Oem head gaskets installed with apr head studs. New oem oil pan, front cover, gerotor oil pump and pressure release valve. New ipr valve, hpop manifolds, and factory ford reman’d injectors. New wiring harnesses, main, FICM, and glow plug. New glow plugs installed. New new cam and crank sensors installed. There really wasn’t much that was reusable.
I’ll pull the ipr today and see what it looks like.
 

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So the whole wham-bam...congrats on that man, that's awesome.

With proper operation, it's an assumption that commanded=actual yes, but if all you're monitoring is the PID...you have no way to confirm that...that's what I'm saying. It's the same way with the VGT %. People monitor the PID and see the value change so they assume "hey it works" and move on and chase their tails for hours on end trying to find other issues, when the turbo vanes were stuck and really not moving the whole time.

If you've been cranking on it and the HPOP is spinning....there's run time......and there's (supposed) oil flow flowing through it that can bring things to the screen. To Hydro's point earlier....it can also be on the feed side and clogging the screen under the oil cooler in the reservoir. To that point as well, with removing the ICP on the passenger side and cranking it, you should have oil flowing out of there, regardless of IPR so personally I don't think the IPR is the smoking gun, but check it anyways. Trust, but verify and get it off the list and do an air test to check the rest of the system. Seals get cut, o-rings can get missed, and lint/debris while the engine was open can accumulate.

You have no oil flow where you want it...so either you have a leakage, or a blockage.
 

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I'm just going to chime in on some things to check. There is no reason to skip these, because the cost is nothing and your motor doesn't run. K?

Make sure the ficm is plugged in all the way. It is possible to get a "click" but the actual plug is not seated all the way, especially if you plugged it in before tightening it down.

Pull the ipr valve and check it, this should be basic troubleshooting in any no start/long crank situation.

Air test it through the ipr port, just do it. If you hear any air, you aren't gonna build the pressure you need, no way, not with a completely dry system.
If you (for some odd reason) need to take the manifold off, take the cooler out and check the screen. Also, when you're in there, fill the reservoir before reassembly.

Use another vehicle and jump it while doing the short cranks, this keeps low voltage from taking out ficm and etc.

These are your starting points, get those done and get back to us.

PS. You asked for help to get your motor running, don't automatically discount what some of these guys say, they've been doing this for years.
 

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Please keep us informed! Completing a thread is very helpful to others!

As stated above several times - relying on an inferred ICP pressure really does make troubleshooting difficult. The best thing is to keep the ICP sensor plugged in and report the sensor voltage. I have a chart that can help translate the voltage to an actual pressure.

If you think you have a leak, then it is best to remove the IPR valve and introduce air from that sensor port. While the valve is out, you can inspect it and push the valve plunger down to see if anything is inside of it.
 
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