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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy guys! Im a first time poster and I'm in need of advice on issues I'm having with my 6.0.
First off its a 2004 6.0 Auto, completely stock minus deleted muffler. 123K on it and Im the original owner. Regular maintenance performed by me the entire life.
Repairs to date: within 300 miles replaced A/C Clutch and recharged system, 15K replaced two bad injectors, 23K rear main seal, 50K both batteries and thats all that comes to mind.
Now the juicy stuff. The truck is no longer my daily driver and is now only used once in a while to keep diesel fresh and when anything needs pulled ie tractor or horses. Recently I was beginning to smell antifreeze in the AC vents and figured my heater core was leaking. One day I opened up the return air cowling behind the glove box after driving the truck and the heater core was blistering hot but I was unable to see if there was any leakage. I assume that means I also have a stuck open heater valve and that the AC and heat were on at the same time. The coolant level has needed some adding to in the recent months. This weekend I was pulling about 12,000# behind the trailer on a 420 mile trip at night. Before I headed out I changed the oil and filter, topped off the coolant and added a can of SeaFoam when I filled up. About an hour into the journey while filling up with fuel the truck just died. It cranked right back up and ran fine after that. However another hour in and the smell of the antifreeze went from a sour smell to a burnt smell. I had to finish the 7 1/2 hour drive with the windows cracked it was so bad. When I got to where I was going I decided before heading home I'd bypass the heater core and check the antifreeze. When I took the heater hose off the antifreeze was very burned smelling and blackish brown color. I saved some in a clean clear bottle and you can see little black pieces in there that almost look like soot. I bypassed the heater and flushed the system with a garden hose and added fresh antifreeze. On the way home I would occasionally smell that burned smell in the vents, however just walking in front of the truck you could smell that foul smell. No apparent leaks of antifreeze on the ground anywhere.

I am all kinds of worried about what this could be and where to start on fixing things. My first fear is EGR cooler but Im not getting any white smoke out of the exhaust pipe. One other thing is that it seems to idle rough regardless of engine temp. Its worse at start up but doesnt go away. Almost like a gas engine would miss if you know what I mean.

I told the wifey to budget 400 bucks for the EGR delete kit and who knows what a heater core would cost if its truly leaking. Any and all suggestions are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for your time and have a good one.

Caleb
TX Aggie 2012:thumb:
 

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Howdy guys! Im a first time poster and I'm in need of advice on issues I'm having with my 6.0.
First off its a 2004 6.0 Auto, completely stock minus deleted muffler. 123K on it and Im the original owner. Regular maintenance performed by me the entire life.
Repairs to date: within 300 miles replaced A/C Clutch and recharged system, 15K replaced two bad injectors, 23K rear main seal, 50K both batteries and thats all that comes to mind.
Now the juicy stuff. The truck is no longer my daily driver and is now only used once in a while to keep diesel fresh and when anything needs pulled ie tractor or horses. Recently I was beginning to smell antifreeze in the AC vents and figured my heater core was leaking. One day I opened up the return air cowling behind the glove box after driving the truck and the heater core was blistering hot but I was unable to see if there was any leakage. I assume that means I also have a stuck open heater valve and that the AC and heat were on at the same time. The coolant level has needed some adding to in the recent months. This weekend I was pulling about 12,000# behind the trailer on a 420 mile trip at night. Before I headed out I changed the oil and filter, topped off the coolant and added a can of SeaFoam when I filled up. About an hour into the journey while filling up with fuel the truck just died. It cranked right back up and ran fine after that. However another hour in and the smell of the antifreeze went from a sour smell to a burnt smell. I had to finish the 7 1/2 hour drive with the windows cracked it was so bad. When I got to where I was going I decided before heading home I'd bypass the heater core and check the antifreeze. When I took the heater hose off the antifreeze was very burned smelling and blackish brown color. I saved some in a clean clear bottle and you can see little black pieces in there that almost look like soot. I bypassed the heater and flushed the system with a garden hose and added fresh antifreeze. On the way home I would occasionally smell that burned smell in the vents, however just walking in front of the truck you could smell that foul smell. No apparent leaks of antifreeze on the ground anywhere.

I am all kinds of worried about what this could be and where to start on fixing things. My first fear is EGR cooler but Im not getting any white smoke out of the exhaust pipe. One other thing is that it seems to idle rough regardless of engine temp. Its worse at start up but doesnt go away. Almost like a gas engine would miss if you know what I mean.

I told the wifey to budget 400 bucks for the EGR delete kit and who knows what a heater core would cost if its truly leaking. Any and all suggestions are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for your time and have a good one.

Caleb
TX Aggie 2012:thumb:
Have you noticed any white residue on top of the degas bottle when you start smelling coolant?
 

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Have you noticed any white residue on top of the degas bottle when you start smelling coolant?
Oh boy, we know where this is going. And to the OP, you had better budget out much more than that $400.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Am I way off base?

Where and what is the degas bottle? After doing some searching through old posts Im seeing a lot of common issues that Im having too.

The fan clutch kicking on and off non stop while the truck is going down the highway. Coolant being a little low every once in awhile. Posts seem to say thats a clogged oil cooler.

Smelling coolant in the cab when the fan clutch kicks in. Seems to be the EGR cooler.

What would cause the coolant to be blackish brown and smell burned? The EGR cooler leaking exhaust into the coolant or the head bolts being stretched and allowing exhaust out through the heads?

Should I really just plan on the enigne blowing up soon? Im a wrencher at heart and fix a lot of my own machinery (farm and gas trucks) but Im fairly green when it comes to a non tractor diesel engine. I guess what I really need to know is a bucket list that you would do all at one time to try and alleviate my problems. Guesstimates on what Im looking at cost wise would be helpful too.

Thanks

Caleb
 

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If your coolant is dark colored it probably has oil mixed with it. Most likely you have a minimum of a blown oil cooler and EGR cooler causing the issues. And as bad as you don't want to hear, there is a chance of blown head gaskets. The best thing you could do is take it to a very reliable and respected shop and have it diagnosed so you know what you are looking at. I personally wouldn't drive it until you know for sure just in case the heads are ok. Definately don't want to ruin the heads if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Dhanna for the reply. As of now Im going to order the delete kit and a new oil cooler. Should have them installed by the end of the month. Since Im not hot rodding the engine or anything do I really need to worry about the head bolts and head gaskets? Can I re-torque the stock ones while Im that far into this? Also is there anything special that I need to know before I jump head first into this? I am planning on ordering my delete from RCD and using a factory oil cooler.
Thanks
Caleb
 

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Thanks Dhanna for the reply. As of now Im going to order the delete kit and a new oil cooler. Should have them installed by the end of the month. Since Im not hot rodding the engine or anything do I really need to worry about the head bolts and head gaskets? Can I re-torque the stock ones while Im that far into this? Also is there anything special that I need to know before I jump head first into this? I am planning on ordering my delete from RCD and using a factory oil cooler.
Thanks
Caleb
The factory head bolts are already a TTY (Torque To Yield) bolt so you can't retorque them since they are designed to stretch to achieve the required torque. I know there are write ups on here that tell and show how to do the oil cooler and EGR delete. My suggestion is take it to someone that knows about the 6.0 and spend a little money to make sure you don't already have a head gasket issue. It would suck if you spent all the time and money on the cooler and delete and then found out the head gaskets were blown and had to do it all over again plus extra.
 

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A dealer could do a contribution test, but your miss might mess it up.
 

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Follow their advice, get a reputable shop to do it. I went this path not too long ago. I spent $3000 chasing symptoms and caused a few as I went. I still have injector trouble because of ME doing the work and not really knowing what I was doing. I could have paid them to fix everything and not be left with injector trouble for less money and aggravation. I am saving for new injectors and will likely have to re-do a lot of what I did.
 

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What exactly is a contribution test? How is it done? Just curious.
 

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A dealers comp can watch the engine's rpms and deduce which cylinders are low in power. If you ECU isn't showing a miss but its missing to some extent, this can find it.
 

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I just wanted to give you the option of checking out MKMCustoms.com "Complete 6.0 Solution Kit". This kit has everything I think your gonna find you need. I don't think you can beat their price trying to piece this together. Just an option you might want to look into. Hope this helps man. Good luck with your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Pull the cab or set it on fire?

Ok heres what Im thinking. I have access to a overhead hoist/crane and have been told that the dealers pull the cab when working on these trucks. 04 model with 03 engine. As it stands I am planning on ordering the complete kit that harley reccomends, the crank sensor, rear main seal, all hoses, belt and any other little thing that comes up. I have been told that I should change the injectors and the oil feed lines that are under the valve covers as well. Is this smart or no? I dont see anywhere to find the oil lines and Im not sure about injectors. I guess what Im asking now is how hard is it to remove the cab with said equipment(how do you do it) and what would your "hate" list be as a minimum of things to replace while youre this far in. Ive seen posts about HPOPS and things that are hard to do so is it worht it? The truck is paid for and I plan on driving it for many more years so a 3000 dollar investment on parts seems like a wise choice in the long run. I dont want to tear into this thing and only do it halfway. I want a reliable engine that will last for a long time. I work at UPS and the mechanic here is going to "do the wrenching" and I will be a support role. Many UPS trucks have similar engines they just call them different names (444E etc). Please let me know what you'd do and thanks in advance. He thinks we can do all this in one day, long day of course.

Caleb
TX Aggie 2012:thumb:
 

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Ok heres what Im thinking. I have access to a overhead hoist/crane and have been told that the dealers pull the cab when working on these trucks. 04 model with 03 engine. As it stands I am planning on ordering the complete kit that harley reccomends, the crank sensor, rear main seal, all hoses, belt and any other little thing that comes up. I have been told that I should change the injectors and the oil feed lines that are under the valve covers as well. Is this smart or no? I dont see anywhere to find the oil lines and Im not sure about injectors. I guess what Im asking now is how hard is it to remove the cab with said equipment(how do you do it) and what would your "hate" list be as a minimum of things to replace while youre this far in. Ive seen posts about HPOPS and things that are hard to do so is it worht it? The truck is paid for and I plan on driving it for many more years so a 3000 dollar investment on parts seems like a wise choice in the long run. I dont want to tear into this thing and only do it halfway. I want a reliable engine that will last for a long time. I work at UPS and the mechanic here is going to "do the wrenching" and I will be a support role. Many UPS trucks have similar engines they just call them different names (444E etc). Please let me know what you'd do and thanks in advance. He thinks we can do all this in one day, long day of course.

Caleb
TX Aggie 2012:thumb:
I don't see why you would have to replace the injectors unless there is a problem with them already. I hope he's not telling you that the 444E is the same as a 6.0. The 444E was the equivalent of the 7.3, the VT365 is the 6.0 version.
 
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