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ok i narrowed the sound to the passanger side by the top alternator, i have duel, i changed the the belt tentioner about 3 months ago and just changed the 2 pulleys that bolt on the block.. now the noise only comes when the truck boost.. when shes in neutral and boost over 4 psi which is about 3000 rpms and drop it in drive and over 1800 rpms 4-5 psi..it comes back,, can it be a manifold gasket? head gasket? any input will help
 
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pass side by alternator is your blue cac hose, it may be leaking
EDIT-accidentally got into 6.4 problems thought i hit 6.0 :crazy:

What does the noise sound like? A hiss? A woosh? A grinding noise? Dual alternator set up yeah the only thing thats near that would be the CAC hose... if that leaks it will make a noise under boost conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
pass side by alternator is your blue cac hose, it may be leaking
EDIT-accidentally got into 6.4 problems thought i hit 6.0 :crazy:

What does the noise sound like? A hiss? A woosh? A grinding noise? Dual alternator set up yeah the only thing thats near that would be the CAC hose... if that leaks it will make a noise under boost conditions.
hay buddy thanks for the imput.. the noise sounds just like an old car with the v grove belts when there lose.. thats why i thought it was the pulley system...now reading about it it can also sound like a air leak under pressure..like a tea kettle ..whats the cac hose? how to i track it..lil more info i pulled the wheel well out and its comming from direct by the alternator.. i didnt smell soot when my dad was accelerating in drive with the brake applied..but only makes noise at 4-5 psi boost
 
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hay buddy thanks for the imput.. the noise sounds just like an old car with the v grove belts when there lose.. thats why i thought it was the pulley system...now reading about it it can also sound like a air leak under pressure..like a tea kettle ..whats the cac hose? how to i track it..lil more info i pulled the wheel well out and its comming from direct by the alternator.. i didnt smell soot when my dad was accelerating in drive with the brake applied..but only makes noise at 4-5 psi boost
oh boy. Sounds like it could be a turbo failure high pressure turbo failure. Does it boost up to 30psi when you go wot down the road? Does it lack power?

Now for a CAC (Charge Air Cooler) boot/hose to properly diag it you can do 1 of 2 ways the first way is the cheap easy way. Soapy water coat it with soapy water have someone boost the truck in drive like attempting a burnout see if the water bubbles up. 2nd way to be sure, get a smoke tester and pull the IAT#2 out of the intake and pump smoke through the intake with the air cleaner removed and turbo capped off. if you see smoke on the intake side any of the silver metal pipes, blue or black cac hoses, or around the turbo thats where it is To find anexhaust leak is easier yet, remove the EBP sensor and pump smoke through it, IT COULD be the pass side up pipe not a difficult task to perform in cab not easy either. time consuming more than anything.
 
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BTW the pass side up pipe almost always leaks in a 6.4 at the flex bellow. Youll see smoke come out of that and before you can smoke test it you can shove a mirror with the inner fender well removed and a light and angle it just right to see soot. Also remove the 8mm head bolts that hold down the turbo heat shield if the side facing the turbo is covered in soot then the turbo union is leaking the turbo HAS to be removed as an assembly and you will have to get the new turbo seal kit. After that your guna take a striking pry bar to the center section and smack it with a hammer evenly around the union. while theyre apart see if the impellar wheels turn freely. If they bind up and you see metal shavings in the pedestal drain and the High pressure drain tube the turbos are wasted. when that happens replace the oil cooler. It would be easy now that the turbos are off so the intake could be removed without disturbing the jumper tubes at the HPFP going to the heads. IF you can do it just right... now as for the turbos being put back together get a heavy rubber dead blow and smack them back together and get a couple 8x1.25 thread bolts and washers and run em in tight and keep removing the washers til you cant thread the bolt in any more turn both bolts even ammounts of turns and even ammounts of washers. do not remove the bolts until you have the turbo mounted. The other thing you want to make sure the Dowel pins dont come out with the high pressure turbo other wise youll never get the cross over on even or close to lining up...
 

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BTW the pass side up pipe almost always leaks in a 6.4 at the flex bellow. Youll see smoke come out of that and before you can smoke test it you can shove a mirror with the inner fender well removed and a light and angle it just right to see soot. Also remove the 8mm head bolts that hold down the turbo heat shield if the side facing the turbo is covered in soot then the turbo union is leaking the turbo HAS to be removed as an assembly and you will have to get the new turbo seal kit. After that your guna take a striking pry bar to the center section and smack it with a hammer evenly around the union. while theyre apart see if the impellar wheels turn freely. If they bind up and you see metal shavings in the pedestal drain and the High pressure drain tube the turbos are wasted. when that happens replace the oil cooler. It would be easy now that the turbos are off so the intake could be removed without disturbing the jumper tubes at the HPFP going to the heads. IF you can do it just right... now as for the turbos being put back together get a heavy rubber dead blow and smack them back together and get a couple 8x1.25 thread bolts and washers and run em in tight and keep removing the washers til you cant thread the bolt in any more turn both bolts even ammounts of turns and even ammounts of washers. do not remove the bolts until you have the turbo mounted. The other thing you want to make sure the Dowel pins dont come out with the high pressure turbo other wise youll never get the cross over on even or close to lining up...
i have no issue boosting over 40lbs, running the spartan 210 tow tune..runs great..i thought it could be the belts or some because standing right over the engine it sounded like the pulleys that bold to the block... i replaced both of them.. replaced the tentioner, had to put a new ac unit. and that new belt and tentioner..now i used soap and water to lube up the belts as my dad had the truck in drive while applying throttle...poured water and soap, no diffrence still made noise... but sounds like its comming right by the alternator..those cac hoses i pulled apart already.. inspected it and cleaned with brake clean reinstalled and tighten..so it lead to me today to take the wheel well off.. now i know its not the belt drive system, cause it only does it after i boost 4-5lbs...once i pulled the passanger side wheel well the sound got so loud u can be in there to long.. its comming from directly by the alternator behind the spring tower.. im thinking its a busted exhaust bolt,, exhaust leak? u think its the gasket making that whisle sound as it passes through the leak..kinda when u blow on a folded peice of plastic bag..what u think?i just had the y pipe and new up tubes installed at 98k i have 161k now
 
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got so loud u can be in there to long.. its comming from directly by the alternator behind the spring tower.. im thinking its a busted exhaust bolt,, exhaust leak? u think its the gasket making that whisle sound as it passes through the leak..kinda when u blow on a folded peice of plastic bag..what u think?i just had the y pipe and new up tubes installed at 98k i have 161k now
havent seen a cracked manifold yet, but i wouldnt rule it out either, now you find a smoke machine and pump smoke through the ebp tube and thats the quickest easiest way to find your leak, if you see smoke you have a leak
 
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