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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all...

I've been on this site for about 15 years, but in the 7.3 forums. Life changes have thinned out my fleet of 7.3s, even got me into a 2016 gasser for the past year or so. But I'm really missing the 6spd manual, my early '99 7.3L/6spd was my favorite until rust took it out of the game.

Which brings me to my current situation. I've found exactly the truck I want, 2006 F250 with the cab/interior/condition that pleases me, with manual trans, and 6.0 motor. It has 150k miles, super clean all around, only mods done were done very recently by the current owner who has has it less than a year, are EGR delete/stock tune and MBRP exhaust.

I have no plans to do any performance mods, tunes, anything other than maintain it and drive it. I understand the 6.0s are picky and require religious maintenance, fresh oil, coolant flushes, etc, which I will keep up with. But what I'm asking for here, is in the mostly stock condition, with good maintenance (and open to advice on what that is), can I expect this motor to remain reliable for years to come without going "full bulletproof"? I'm really liking the truck I found, but need advice regarding the motor.
 

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whenever buying a used 6.0, know there will be issues. Keep at least a couple grand in savings for the truck.
it currently has issues now that you dont know about or will eventually. Just know that going in and it should last 300-400k miles
mine is at 243k on the original motor but when i got it used it needed a new hpop and oil cooler with some others things that i was unaware of at the time of purchase. But getting a good price for it, i didnt mind.
 

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read the link below

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Mark, thanks for the link. That's the kind of reading that will be very helpful to me.

I'm nervous, but the truck is really nice, I'm going to have a hard time talking myself out of getting it, so I better read up on what I'm getting into!
 

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I like the 06 and up model years.

Seems like every model year has a few "special needs". 150k isn't a lot of miles, so it very well could be a very good truck for a long time.
 

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Make sure you tell the owner to let it sit for at least 12hrs before you get there, then you can start it stone cold and see how the truck reacts on a cold start.

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jokester, that's the plan for Wednesday morning... I do not have a scan tool to use, so close visual inspection over and under the truck, check fluids, etc... Observation of cold start, modest test drive, further inspection after running a bit, a couple shutdown and hot restart cycles, pay the guy and drive 3.5 hours home!
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter
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Jokester, that's the plan for Wednesday morning... I do not have a scan tool to use, so close visual inspection over and under the truck, check fluids, etc... Observation of cold start, modest test drive, further inspection after running a bit, a couple shutdown and hot restart cycles, pay the guy and drive 3.5 hours home!
Get an OBD2 interface like OBDLink and load Torque on your phone so you can check oil and coolant temps driving down the highway.

If those temps stabilize with oil more than 15 degrees hotter than coolant, the truck needs an oil cooler.

I wish I had done that before buying my truck.

Mine needed an oil cooler. But wait, there's more. The truck was EGR deleted, and I suspect that was after the EGR cooler failed due to the clogged oil cooler.

For whatever reason, likely due to EGR cooler failure leaking coolant into the intake, the truck needed head gaskets.

That job cost me $5300 after the minor contribution from the "extended warranty" I was sold with the truck.

I now have a silly amount of money in a 16 year old truck.

But on the bright side, the truck is in pretty nice shape, and the motor should now be good for another couple of hundred thousand miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Get an OBD2 interface like OBDLink and load Torque on your phone so you can check oil and coolant temps driving down the highway.

If those temps stabilize with oil more than 15 degrees hotter than coolant, the truck needs an oil cooler.

I wish I had done that before buying my truck.

Mine needed an oil cooler. But wait, there's more. The truck was EGR deleted, and I suspect that was after the EGR cooler failed due to the clogged oil cooler.
I have an OBD2 bluetooth device and the free version of Torque on my phone, but limited experience and/or success using it. Will that check what you're suggesting adequately? I tend to use DashCommand to clear codes, it seems to connect to the PCM easier and more consistently.
 

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2005 F250 FX4 Lariat CCSB - ARP studs, EGR deleted, IPR coolant filter
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I have an OBD2 bluetooth device and the free version of Torque on my phone, but limited experience and/or success using it. Will that check what you're suggesting adequately?
Yes.

However, not all OBD2 Bluetooth devices are equal. The cheap (around $15) no-name that works fine with my F150 gasser doesn't work very well on my 6.0. I bought an OBDLink LX which works much better.
 

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If it's the original oil cooler and it's running ford gold, I would go ahead and plan on replacing it. Figure in around $1000 for a shop to do it. Inspect the coolant system thoroughly. Check the level, look for dried up coolant around the cap and active leaks anywhere you see a hose connection.
 

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I’m not a huge fan of the 1/2 thrust bearing on the 6.0 with stick shift. If I was buying I would take an indicator, mag base and pry bar and measure crank walk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So, after nearly walking away, and the resulting significant drop in price, I brought it home. Drives nice, steers straight and tight, stops good. Does have gold coolant that looks fresh, and the degas bottle looks aged but clean.
I could not get my TorqueLite app to find oil temp, so I was unable to check oil vs coolant temp.
I hope this turns out to be a good truck, I'm in the doghouse over it, wife is not happy that I want to give up a newer truck for it.
Replacement of the oil cooler, oil and coolant change, coolant filter will be on the list in the near future.
Gauges I have left from a 7.3 truck, boost/egt in a pillar pod will likely go in. 3rd hole in the pod was for trans temp (auto truck) so I'll have to fill that with something. Ideas?
 
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