[ol_Blue97]

1st... b4 u do anything... u NEED gauges, and prolly go ahead and install a large transmission cooler.

2nd... check ure fuel pressure at WOT, it will prolly be below specs (anything below 50psi) which means u should bo e-fuel. The reason i say that is once u open up the flow ure fuel pump wont be able to keep up. Every time ure fuel pressure drops when u get on the skinny peddle u will be slowly destroying your injectors that u just spent so much on and save up for...

3rd...go ahead and install injectors and check out under valve cove harness and glow plugs.. if u havent done the intercooler yet u will have to watch egts like a hawk and if u tow at all then i would recomend doing it first.

4th..... get ure chip and have them detune it untill u can afford a turbo so u dont blow it apart.

5th... upgrade ure HPOP... reason i say not to upgrade earlier is low HPOP pressure will not cause any damage, just low performance and bad fuel economy. Once upgraded u can reburn chip or leave it like it is untill u swap the turbo.

6th... upgrade turbo... d66 or if u wana go all out, t4 mount kit and an s366.


Ure trans will blow in there somewhere which at that time go ahead and either swap in a zf5 or build the trans.

 

[ol_Blue97]

Even tho u shimmed the fpr and pressure looks good now... you will be doubbling the size of the injectors, i highly recoment e-fuel.

 

[ol_Blue97]

I belive they mentioned using dual SD electric pumps plumbed in parallel with eachother... dual mechanicals isnt possiable... you only have one hole in the block to install it in

 

[ol_Blue97]

Most guys spend between 500 and 700 with a diy fuel system. All depends on how much u can get the pumps for. I belive a new bosch is like 125? Or go with a walbro for 100.... or 350 for an aeromotive a1000. Al depends on how much u want to spend and also dont forget about availabitly of the pumps when they fail. The sd pumps and sd replacement pumps can be had at just about any parts store.