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would this be the IH engine then? why is the seller advertising this as a '94:dunno:

did Ford introduce the PSD in late 94?

really wanted a PSD but if the 7.3L non-PSD is sturdy than that's cool :thumb:
There were 3 7.3L choices in 94 the IDI NA, IDI Turbo and the DI Turbo (PSD).
 

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The idi is a GREAT engine. Keep the additive in the radiator and they will run forever. In fact my IDI was recently pulled back into everyday service since my stroke died.

As far as parts, you can still get anything for them, and most of the time the parts are a lot cheaper than stroke parts.

Power wasn't great stock, but it will pull your boat with no problem at all. And if you want to build power in the future, stick a turbo and an intercooler on it and it will hang right with the powerstrokes.:thumb:
What is thia additive in the radiator you speak of?
 

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What is thia additive in the radiator you speak of?
Its abbreviated "SCA's". It stands for something like blank coolant additive. You can pick up SCA test stripes from parts stores, dip it in the radiator and see if its at the proper level. 7.3 IDI's were bored out 6.9IDI's with other mild changes. So they have thin cylinder walls and if the SCA's arent kept at the right level they can cavitate and coolant can get into the oil and all hell will break loose.

A turbo IDI will keep up with a first gen PSD (stock). Plus the IDI has a much, much stronger low end due to it being designed as a N/A with high compression. First gen PSD's (stock) you hit the throttle and its, 1...2...3....and then its starts going strong. With an IDI its away you go.
 

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Thanks, as you can tell I'm a little green to a Ford diesel. My last one was a 12V '93 ext. cab Dodge. Pulled like a mule on coke, electrical acted like a mule on coke! :tard:
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
these corngrinder engines are supposed to be rock-solid, but I hear they have some weak points. what else besides the coolant additive and the fact that they won't start if the oil is low? how about the interface between the electrical components and the ECM?
 

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That truck should handle the boat fine, but i'd send the injection pump off to get rebuilt and turned up

they went bad on those trucks anyway, so its just an extra precaution to make it more reliable :thumb:
 

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That truck should handle the boat fine, but i'd send the injection pump off to get rebuilt and turned up

they went bad on those trucks anyway, so its just an extra precaution to make it more reliable :thumb:
Jesus , think your signature could be any bigger!!!!:doh:
 

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Alright I will list some things to look out for that go wrong:

6.9 IDI:

Weak head bolts/bad factory head gasket design, prone to blowing the stock head gaskets if they havent been replaced. ARP sells a head stud kit that is recomended if you are replacing them. The new head gasket design is good.

Glow plug controller. On the 6.9 the factory glow plug controller sometimes fails in basically the worst time possible, and usually fails in the "on" position resulting in burning the glow plugs up.

Oil cooler might start leaking, the o-rings go bad every once in a while, I guess its a major pain in the arse to change them, and a new oil cooler is really, really expensive (couple hundred bucks I guess) so if you mess things up its a costly fix.

Wiring is 80's vintage, so some things crap out after time. The headlight wiring supposidly is a bad design and causes.

Burn oil. 6.9's are truly oil burners. The valve stem seals were not that great of a design and caused them to burn oil. Anything worse than say 400-500 miles/quart and you might have to fix them.

7.3 IDI:

Thin cylinder walls prone to cavitation unless they have had proper SCA's in them most of there lives.

Valve stem seals were changed to a design that caused them to not burn oil, but sometimes causes valve failuer which results in a rebuild or new engine if things go way bad.

Oil cooler once again, same thing.

Changed the glow plug relay, but if a couple of plugs go bad then it wont cycle right.

Both:

IP (injection pump) go bad and need at least a rebuild (or you can go for a new one) on average around 100K miles. Sometimes less, sometimes way more (I've heard of 400K+ a couple times).

Injectors Sometimes get gummed up with use, they are cheap though.

Return lines (rubber hoses going between the injectors) will go bad after time, develop cracks and let air in, making it hard to start.

Glow plugs, they go bad after time. Most people unknowingly buy Autolites. Never EVER buy Autolites I've heard way to many horor stories about them failing, swelling up in the head. People go in to replace them and they break the tips off in the head. Never a good thing. Buy Beru or motocraft glow plugs only!

Trannys:

The C6 (auto from 83 to 89 I believe). Probably one of the best trannies ford has produced, but the converter never locks, and has no overdrive. Fuel economy truly suffers with them, though they are near bullet proof.

T-19 (4 speed, non overdrive, 83-86). Great tranny, I have one. I can power shift it to no end and it keeps going. Uses motor oil as oil, dont ask me why it just does. The only bad thing about them is they have no overdrive.

E4OD Auto tranny from 89-94 in the IDI's. Had an overdrive. Wasnt the best tranny, and they fail over time. There are things you can do to fix them, better torque converters, shift kits, change up the internals, but they are costly trannies to fix, usually $1000+ just for a basic rebuild.

ZF-5 speed, 5 speed overdrive manual from 87-94. Good tranny, and has overdrive. The DMF (dual mass flywheel) used with them fail over time, and are costly to fix. You can get SMF (single mass flywheel) replacements but they are costly as well. The synchros wear out over time, and you cant really power shift them. They are really sensative to what oil you use in them.

Thats all I can think of at the time :thumb:.
 

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Additive

Yup, SCA's as stated above. My first 7.3 IDI died as a result of cavitation, but that was before I new about the additive. You can get the additive from Ford, Napa, Fleetguard... etc.. easy to find and not expensive at all. I just add two 8 oz bottles every 20,000 miles or so and it stays right where it should be on the test strips.
 

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IDI

Fordguy is absolutely right about the IDI having more grunt on the low end. Below 1800 rpm my IDI will out pull my Powerstroke any day of the week. The powerstrokes generally have more power once the turbo spools.

My 92 IDI has a sidewinder turbo with the wastegate adjusted shut and an intercooler, and it will pull right with, (if not outpull) a stock first gen powerstroke, and that is without the methanol or the pump turned up.

I wouldn't pass a good deal on a 6.9 or a 7.3 IDI.

I started with and IDI, but I love my Powerstroke too (When it is running:doh:)
 

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Discussion Starter #31
good copy Justin

so when I meet the owner I should bring a SCA test strip to see if he's been using the additive -- if not should I walk?

ask if the oil cooler was replaced and when

ask when the IP was replaced (truck has 125K on odo) and last time injectors were replaced

check fuel return lines for cracking

ask what brand glow plugs are installed

ask about servicing record of ZF-5 tranny, and what type of gear oil he's using

do any of you use synthetic oil in your IDIs?
 

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good copy Justin

so when I meet the owner I should bring a SCA test strip to see if he's been using the additive -- if not should I walk?

ask if the oil cooler was replaced and when

ask when the IP was replaced (truck has 125K on odo) and last time injectors were replaced

check fuel return lines for cracking

ask what brand glow plugs are installed

ask about servicing record of ZF-5 tranny, and what type of gear oil he's using

do any of you use synthetic oil in your IDIs?
Good copy?!?!? I pulled that right out of my noggin :thumb:. Its amazing what soaks in after a couple years of reading.

It kind of depends. If you bring a strip, and its good, then I would probably go for it. If the truck is in great condition, the price is right, and the SCA's arent good, then its all up to you. You may be lucky and not have it cavitate, but it just might, kinda like russian roulette, you just never know until it does. IDI motors are plentiful around here so if the price was right I probably would go for it knowing that I could buy a running IDI for $500 around here.

Not the oil cooler itself, its the o-rings in between the oil-cooler and the block, or head, or where ever it attaches :hehe:

I would just ask if the fuel system has been gone through, and when. Then test the guy out and see if he knows the major componenets to it, IP, injectors, ect...to make sure you are on the same level.

The rest looks good.

I use synthetics in mine. So far just Amsoil motor oil in the tranny, and ATF in the transfer case. I have gear oil for the diffs, and motor oil for the motor after it goes through a cleaning session (with AutoRx, google it, I've heard from many IDI owners it actually does as its stated)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
good copy

no offense, Justin

'good copy' is a military term that describes good information:thumb:

many thanks...but if this truck fails the SCA strip test I walk...no mood to gamble with my hard-earned rubles
 

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no offense, Justin

'good copy' is a military term that describes good information:thumb:

many thanks...but if this truck fails the SCA strip test I walk...no mood to gamble with my hard-earned rubles
Oh, that would make sense :thumb:

I understand, its a lot of coin to gamble on something if the SCA's arent there.
 
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