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1999 F250 7.3L Crew Cab
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, so ive been chasing this leak ever since i got the truck and have searched through many threads and checked numerous parts on this engine in hopes that id get a bit closer to fixing this leak. I have replaced the turbo, turbo pedestal, seals for both, hpop seals, valve cover gaskets on both sides, new ipr valve, new icp, ensured the hpop lines are good and dry, checked to ensure the valve covers are not warped, and still am having an oil leak from the north side of the engine, appears it is coming from the valve cover seals but they bpoth have been replaced and im on the verge of replacing the valve covers themselves but im trying to not throw parts at this just to fix an oil leak. i am attaching a video below when its finished uploading to show where the spots are and am trying to see what else you guys would recommend checking for the sake of my 7.3. This leak is now affecting the transmission as it is saturating the solenoid pack connector and just keeping me from having a clean truck. Everytime after parking the truck it leaks about 10-20 drips and then its done but im unsure how much drips during driving, every 350 miles i need to add 2 quarts roughly, and the leak does worsen if im dogging on her a bit even if i let it cool down for 10 minutes before turning it off.


 

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So what I do is, after a through cleaning, fill the valley with rolled-up papertowel. Put it everywhere, from under the turbo to under the HPOP and, in your case, maybe tucked against the valvecovers.

Then you want to carefully monitor where it is that the signs of oil first appear on that papertowel (if not exact you could concentrate on that area with fresh towel to pinpoint....)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I have tried that, seeing if im just missing something in the valley, but it stays bone dry no signs of oil there at all unfortunately. Also a side note, this was still happening on stock injectors and stock tunes.
So what I do is, after a through cleaning, fill the valley with rolled-up papertowel. Put it everywhere, from under the turbo to under the HPOP and, in your case, maybe tucked against the valvecovers.

Then you want to carefully monitor where it is that the signs of oil first appear on that papertowel (if not exact you could concentrate on that area with fresh towel to pinpoint....)
 

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So your video finally showed-up (wasn't in the first time I read it), and I now understand why you're callin' it a Mystery ;)

To be clear, the Valley's Dry, and there's an equal amount of oil coming down the back of both heads?

My first thought would be that it's Turbo related because that's in the Center, a point where it could come down either/both sides (I know this occured to you too as you have been there and replaced those O-rings). But,,, what if???

Can you get a sm pressure washer under there and, with some degreaser, get it dry again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So your video finally showed-up (wasn't in the first time I read it), and I now understand why you're callin' it a Mystery ;)

To be clear, the Valley's Dry, and there's an equal amount of oil coming down the back of both heads?

My first thought would be that it's Turbo related because that's in the Center, a point where it could come down either/both sides (I know this occured to you too as you have been there and replaced those O-rings). But,,, what if???

Can you get a sm pressure washer under there and, with some degreaser, get it dry again?
Yeah both sides equal amounts of oil gonna hop on the pressure washing sometime soon but out of curiosity, is it possible to blow those o rings apart under a heavy load letting off quick?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So just an update for anyone using this thread as a helping hand, the leak got much worse today and of course right before I have to put a couple hundred miles on her, thankfully it wasn't en route that would've been real bad. What started as an o-ring between the pump and fitting turned into the line disintegrating so I have quite the overhaul going on now.

So I replaced the o-ring and fired her up and it looked like the line wasn't even connected the way it was shooting oil out but it was right and the line was the culprit even though the o-ring looks like it went through the ringer it only seeped a little bit but the hose just gave out.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Waited a couple days for the valley to clear out from blowing the HPOP lines, still leaking and the valley is dry again. I took some video when the trans was out and there's a spot of interest here but I dont know what this piece is on the back of the pedestal.
Outerwear Silver Automotive tire Sleeve Automotive design


Not sure if this has anything to do with this leak and there's not much of a trace of leaking from there but im trying to eliminate any possibilities because the pedestal is new, the turbo is new, the o-rings are new hpop lines are new.
 

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Hey SirSevenTree, I'm chasing a similar problem (no oil in the valley), however my leak is only down the driver side of the transmission. I've covered all the steps above you outlined and I just noticed the same port you pointed out on your deleted pedestal. That port had no thread sealer so I just sealed it but I am worried there may be more and I don't want to mount the pedestal and turbo only to take it off again.

Did that end up being your problem? I assume since the thread ended it was the "final" culprit since you had a HPOP failure also (which I suspect was unrelated to the original issue).

Matt
 

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Waited a couple days for the valley to clear out from blowing the HPOP lines, still leaking and the valley is dry again. I took some video when the trans was out and there's a spot of interest here but I dont know what this piece is on the back of the pedestal. View attachment 776375

Not sure if this has anything to do with this leak and there's not much of a trace of leaking from there but im trying to eliminate any possibilities because the pedestal is new, the turbo is new, the o-rings are new hpop lines are new.
Do you still have the EBPV actuator in place? That plug looks like a "repair" or elimination of the actuator if it is oriented towards the valve. Remove that plug and put some telfon tape on the threads. If the EBPV is commanded to cycle then oil pressure is sent to that plug (if I am assuming correctly that is where the actuating rod for the EBPV originated from).

another leak point for is the oil rail plug at the end of the head(s)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey SirSevenTree, I'm chasing a similar problem (no oil in the valley), however my leak is only down the driver side of the transmission. I've covered all the steps above you outlined and I just noticed the same port you pointed out on your deleted pedestal. That port had no thread sealer so I just sealed it but I am worried there may be more and I don't want to mount the pedestal and turbo only to take it off again.

Did that end up being your problem? I assume since the thread ended it was the "final" culprit since you had a HPOP failure also (which I suspect was unrelated to the original issue).

Matt
So the leak was 2 fold, its a persistent leak in the hpop and undertorque on the pedestal. Ford calls for a lower amount and it doesn't seal properly and I was getting intermittent sprays because of it. IIRC the ford spec is 19 ft/lbs but I went to 30 and haven't had an issue since. I'd assume if it's only down one side then it very well could be the head plug against the firewall. If you can stick an inspection mirror and check that first
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you still have the EBPV actuator in place? That plug looks like a "repair" or elimination of the actuator if it is oriented towards the valve. Remove that plug and put some telfon tape on the threads. If the EBPV is commanded to cycle then oil pressure is sent to that plug (if I am assuming correctly that is where the actuating rod for the EBPV originated from).

another leak point for is the oil rail plug at the end of the head(s)
No I called riffraff and they use that port for draining when they machine the pedestal. It's an EBP delete pedestal which removed that actuating rod entirely.
 

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No I called riffraff and they use that port for draining when they machine the pedestal. It's an EBP delete pedestal which removed that actuating rod entirely.
So it's a "converted" EBPV pedestal and not a non-EBPV pedestal? If so then that port is pressurized during operation I believe. Send it back to riffraff for a non-leaking one, or replace with an actual non-EBPV pedestal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So it's a "converted" EBPV pedestal and not a non-EBPV pedestal? If so then that port is pressurized during operation I believe. Send it back to riffraff for a non-leaking one, or replace with an actual non-EBPV pedestal.
Even clay at riffraff said its highly unlikely leaking from that port... there is no longer an ebp valve it is a basic block with no ebpv in it. The only piece left from the ebpv is in the turbo itself. If it's leaking it's either the turbo to pedestal seal, the pedestal to engine seals, the hpop lines/hpop seals or the plugs in the back of the heads. No concern with the pedestal itself leaking unless it is the stock pedestal then there are normally concerns with high mileage leakage from the valve hence why I purchased the ebp delete pedestal, here is the difference to visualize


The red background picture is the delete kit, the other is the stock pedestal
 

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