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Discussion Starter #1
I got the passenger done but the the driver is trying to hide from me so when I do a coolant flush and filter kit I will get to it then.

simple.
I took the bolt(17mm) out made the holes bigger for more flow. Put it back on and for got and lost washer. Took bolt back off, went to ace got washer and put the bolt back on. All done and better than new.

When I drilled out the bolt I had to keep in mind alignment and High fuel pressure. I forget what size I drilled but its bigger. I did not drill out the anti flow back valve.








That is the hole I drilled out^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^








I used 2-stroke oil to lube the bolt and the components.^^^^^^^^^


all done!!!!!

I used brake cleaner to clean the bolt. Pipe cleaners to clean the hole. I made sure there were no burrs or any metal shavings at all.

I took a really long time cleaning and cleaning and cleaning on one simple bolt. But you have too!!! if you love your injectors, and I guess you wallet too. I even checked and cleaned vigorously the perpendicular intersecting of the fuel flow on the bolt. The flow is like a T.

NO HIJACKING :gun: :mad:
 

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nice signature mod

did you put the check valve back in there? i just notice that you only drilled out the side hole?!
 

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PMR = JUNK
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I've seen that on powerstrokehelp.com. The guy there is a moron. Not saying anything bad about the mod though. Did it help? I've heard some say its pointless and guys like marty who are runnin mass HP haven't done this. Whats the butt dyno say?
 

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I, 1, 2, 1/2, 6
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seems like a good idea but it also seems like more hassle than it's worth :dunno: I'm no expert...
 

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The intent to allow more fuel into the heads. The idea of drilling banjo bolts has been around on other boards for a few years now. Some feel the RR kit is the best solution using -6 up to -8 fuel lines to the heads. Another argument is to just drill out the banjo bolts on the front of the heads.

I was able to locally source banjo bolts with larger openings and no check valve. I just swapped in larger steel lines and the larger banjo bolts to the front of the heads with no real gains. Yes getting to these banjo bolts is difficult but I could do it again easily if I needed to. I don't think you will get more smoke from drilling the bolts.

There is a reality that at WOT the rear injectors are getting starved for fuel. Open up the restrictions and they get feed the fuel they need. Drill the bolts or install a RR kit, it's your choice.
 

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If you are using a tuner or want to get to some high HP numbers upgrading the fuel system is important to maintain injector life. For a stock truck it's not worth the effort, for modded trucks it's not going to hurt to get a RR kit or go to larger banjos.
 

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so doing this is just as good as an rr kit?
 

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the 700 dollar RR kit isnt just drilling out the stock banjo

imo it isnt a dyno proven mod but i guess if you are bored why not

however the OP seemed to only drill out the sides and put the check valve back in. thats a waste, the sides are only as good if you do the center as well
 

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Viking Heavy Diesel
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Why do you take out the check balls?
 

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the retainting clip is too small after drilling the holes for them to hold the valves in, and they are restrictive if you will
 

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Viking Heavy Diesel
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they wont fit after your drill out the holes, the retainting clip doesnt hold them in. and they are restrictive if you will
Makes since. This mod sounds legit but it is not something I would try with out proven benefits!
 

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the retainting clip is too small after drilling the holes for them to hold the valves in, and they are restrictive if you will
the only problem i see with drilling out the center and doing away with the check balls is when the truck is shut off the fuel will flow back out of the fuel galleys in turn causing hard starting due to the air/void in the system. im dont really know if this is true on a 6.0 frankly because i dont work on them on a daily basis, but i do work on cummins engines for a living and know for a fact that doing so would cause terrible starting issues. again im not saying you cant do it and it wont work, just something to take into consideration.
 

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the only problem i see with drilling out the center and doing away with the check balls is when the truck is shut off the fuel will flow back out of the fuel galleys in turn causing hard starting due to the air/void in the system. im dont really know if this is true on a 6.0 frankly because i dont work on them on a daily basis, but i do work on cummins engines for a living and know for a fact that doing so would cause terrible starting issues. again im not saying you cant do it and it wont work, just something to take into consideration.
thats a very good point, it will flow back but not enough to cause a hard start the next time you turn the truck on.

if you look at the aftermaket kits they all have bigger banjo bolts without check valves.

im not arguing that it wont hurt and maybe it can help (peace of mind) but without drilling out the center the flow isnt much greater then stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thats a very good point, it will flow back but not enough to cause a hard start the next time you turn the truck on.

if you look at the aftermaket kits they all have bigger banjo bolts without check valves.

im not arguing that it wont hurt and maybe it can help (peace of mind) but without drilling out the center the flow isnt much greater then stock.
Yes that is y I kept the check ball
 
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