[HorseMover]

Snake:

As Clay said McMaster definitely has the threaded thermometers but watch ebay because I picked mine up there for about 1/4 the cost :thumb:. It was strange one day ebay would have none and a few days later there would be 40 of them. I think my most successful search was for "bimetal threaded thermometer."

 

[firemediceric]

2. Where did you get your temp gauge on the HWH? Any info would be helpful....
--Snake

I've seen many use a temp gauge intended for oil or trans temp from an auto parts store.

 

[Snake]

Thanks everyone!

--Snake

 

[memmer]

Why would anyone want to heat hot water ? HWH/hot water heater instead of a water heater.Sorry everyone just funnin around.Good luck on yer conversion.

 

[choctaw]

Why would anyone want to heat hot water ? HWH/hot water heater instead of a water heater.Sorry everyone just funnin around.Good luck on yer conversion.

I wondered if anyone would pick up on that?
Most people don't; heck even the architects put HWH on their plans, as if they aren't a little off to begin with. :doh:

 

[kingchip]

I wondered if anyone would pick up on that?
Most people don't; heck even the architects put HWH on their plans, as if they aren't a little off to begin with. :doh:

For anyone ever involved with construction, that would explain a lot.

 

[Snake]

As a FYI, the Northern Tool in my area had the aforementioned pump on clearance this week. $39! Not sure if that's for all the store's though....

--Snake

 

[Snake]

And yet another question from the new guy.....

Clay, where did you find the filter set up for the top of your prefilter barrel? I've been all over internet and can't find anything remotely similar.

Thanks again Jedi Master!

**EDIT** I think I found it -- correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you're using a 200 micron bucket strainer on the top of your 55 gallon prefilter barrel? I'm asking because I like the idea of having a collection area below the top of the barrel when you're pouring and your setup definitely meets that need.

Did you just cut a hole and rest the filter inside that?

--Snake

 

[Diesel Monkey]

Does heating the WVO help remove water or just to lower viscosity to get it through the 5 micron filter? I just completed a 2600 mile trip that could have covered the cost of a filter system. :^(

 

[Snake]

Diesel, are you talking about during the filtration process or in your vehicle?

For filtration, heating WVO and then letting it cool facilitates the separation of oil and water as well as any suspended particles in the WVO. The water and particles will settle at the bottom of the vessel you're heating the oil in.

In your vehicle, its necessary to heat the oil for several reasons. For starters, cold oil has a higher viscosity than diesel and will quickly ruin your factory fuel pump (as well as most aftermarket pumps). Secondly, when you attempt to ignite cool oil, it will smoke. This smoke will eventually lead to coking in your cylinders and blow by. From what I've read, veggie oil and motor oil don't like being mixed and when you have enough veggie oil pass your piston rings and mix with your crank case oil, you're one trip away from catastrophic failure of your motor. Try this: heat a frying pan up and then drop a little cool veggie oil onto it. Just a drop or two. Its going to sizzle and smoke. Now heat that same veggie oil to 160 degrees and do the same thing. No smoke. A much more efficient burn.

--Snake

 

[Clay Henry]

And yet another question from the new guy.....

Clay, where did you find the filter set up for the top of your prefilter barrel? I've been all over internet and can't find anything remotely similar.

Thanks again Jedi Master!

**EDIT** I think I found it -- correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you're using a 200 micron bucket strainer on the top of your 55 gallon prefilter barrel? I'm asking because I like the idea of having a collection area below the top of the barrel when you're pouring and your setup definitely meets that need.

Did you just cut a hole and rest the filter inside that?

--Snake

Yes, its a 200 micron bucket strainer and i bought them at a place called B100suply.com...or something like that...google B100supply.
And yes, just cut a hole to rest the strainer in, theres a lip on the strainer and it sits in there tight without falling through.

Does heating the WVO help remove water or just to lower viscosity to get it through the 5 micron filter?

Both, your oil will seperate water and particle matter faster when heated to around 140*. Also it must be at 100-110 to flow throught the 5 micron filters i use with the high speed pump i use.

Try this: heat a frying pan up and then drop a little cool veggie oil onto it. Just a drop or two. Its going to sizzle and smoke. Now heat that same veggie oil to 160 degrees and do the same thing. No smoke. A much more efficient burn.

--Snake

Thats kool, where did you hear that?

 

[firemediceric]

Try this: heat a frying pan up and then drop a little cool veggie oil onto it. Just a drop or two. Its going to sizzle and smoke. Now heat that same veggie oil to 160 degrees and do the same thing. No smoke. A much more efficient burn.

--Snake

That demonstration/analogy is supposed to show you why you can't burn "cold" WVO.

I wouldn't draw the same conclusions from the experiment. The reason? Do the same experiment with a drop of #2 diesel. If you put in a couple of drops of the #2 diesel, you are doing nothing more than BOILING away materials... leaving whatever impurities were in the fuel behind on the pan.

Heat up any material hot enough and fast enough, it will ignite/explode/burn. This little frying pan experiment is just showing you the difference between evaporation vs. ignition.

 

[Snake]

That demonstration/analogy is supposed to show you why you can't burn "cold" WVO.


That's what I was trying to explain. Apparently not so well.... :doh:

 

[Snake]

Thats kool, where did you hear that?

Ummmmmmm......you? :hehe:

--Snake

 

[Snake]

I'm in the process of building my Frybrid Still and have a question about the water heater I'd like to use.

Based on the diagrams that I've seen, the cold water inlet (C) on top of the water heater is capped off and the drain valve (V) is used as a connection point for the air filter and sight tube. I just realized that my drain valve (V in the diagram) is on the side of the tank about 1/4 of the way down from the top. Is it possible to use the cold water inlet (C) instead of the drain valve (V)? I'd hate to have to take this water heater back....

Thanks!

--Snake

 

[choctaw]

I'm in the process of building my Frybrid Still and have a question about the water heater I'd like to use.

Based on the diagrams that I've seen, the cold water inlet (C) on top of the water heater is capped off and the drain valve (V) is used as a connection point for the air filter and sight tube. I just realized that my drain valve (V in the diagram) is on the side of the tank about 1/4 of the way down from the top. Is it possible to use the cold water inlet (C) instead of the drain valve (V)? I'd hate to have to take this water heater back....

Thanks!

--Snake

Snake, that opening is for the temperature and pressure relief valve. There should be an opening at the bottom of the tank.

 

[Clay Henry]

i would think you could use the cold water inlet...can you see inside it? is it piped inside t he tank to the bottom of the tank?

 

[Clay Henry]

oh i mis read your question...there are three openings on the top, the drain should be all the way down at the bottom. Are you saying you only have 2 openings on top, one midway down and one all the way down?

 

[choctaw]

It is possible that you have 2 openings and a plug on the top, the plug will be the anode rod. If this is the case then you will have the opening on the side that is the T&P, and there will always be a drain opening on the bottom somewhere.
Some models have 3 openings and a plug on top, hot-cold-T&P-anode, the drain will still be at the bottom though.

 

[Snake]

oh i mis read your question...there are three openings on the top, the drain should be all the way down at the bottom. Are you saying you only have 2 openings on top, one midway down and one all the way down?

Clay -- thanks for taking the time to call me back yesterday, and again my apologies for jumping off the phone so quickly.

Yes, the Whirlpool WH I picked up from Lowe's only has 2 openings on top (hot and cold), 1 part way down the side (T&P), and one all the way down (drain).

Not gonna work. :doh:

So I returned that one to Lowe's and found out that WH's with the T&P on the side are for mobile homes. Why? I don't know. But that's all that they carried. So off to El Cheapo (Home Depot) and an extra $50 for a water heater that I can actually use.

Thanks to everyone for all the help. I couldn't go down this path without it!

--Snake