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Thanks, makes sense. I'd be interested in hearing if anyone tried - I might give it a shot tonight just to see. The OEM wire looks about the same gauge as the one my relay kit came with. The ECU should throw a P0231 code if the voltage drop is too much, right? FWIW, he 2015 also uses a 20a fuse for the fuel pump
The computer doesn't know the voltage at the pump it may through a code if the fuse blows but I don't know for sure.

If the 6.7 pump uses the same amperage fuse then the factory wiring should work but it may not be ideal.
 

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I'm not sure how relevant this is to this thread, but is there a way to use my stock 6.0 pump and run it to the rear ports on the heads? What parts would be needed? I'd like to replace my lines, as the piece of connector from the tank to the return line of the pump broke; the piece which keeps the hose from disconnecting. I'm sure it would require the fuel bowl delete. I'm trying to do this on a budget, I don't have performance injectors, but #7 and 8 injectors keep throwing out contribution codes. Ive replaced the pump three times in two years (one was defective after a month). Pulls 15klbs just fine. EGR is deleted, ARP studs, oil cooler been rebuilt, I have a bully dog, just haven't thrown it on as I'd like this issue with #7 to be resolved. I'm trying stiction treatments in both the oil and fuel system. Oil change is bringing synthetic 15W-40. Any help, advice and redirection is greatly appreciated.
 

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Hello guys , just checking in for any updates . I have quite a few miles on 6.7 install and the worked flawless . I started at the tank and
rebuilt the complete system , 1/2" feed thru a custom tank pick up, much like the riffraff diesel unit ( Reused the stock sender ) .
At this point I'm finally going to finish the upper filter ( bowl delete ) and do the 6.7 upper filter and the regulator ( RR ) down on the frame ( guarded ) .
Any input for ideas , experience and theories are more than welcome . Haven't seen @Merc82 on much lately , hope all is well .
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Hello guys , just checking in for any updates . I have quite a few miles on 6.7 install and the worked flawless . I started at the tank and
rebuilt the complete system , 1/2" feed thru a custom tank pick up, much like the riffraff diesel unit ( Reused the stock sender ) .
At this point I'm finally going to finish the upper filter ( bowl delete ) and do the 6.7 upper filter and the regulator ( RR ) down on the frame ( guarded ) .
Any input for ideas , experience and theories are more than welcome . Haven't seen @Merc82 on much lately , hope all is well .
I'm around. Just haven't messed with the truck much. Been too busy with life :smile2: My setup still works flawlessly and holds pressure I wouldn't change a thing. In fact I'm due for a filter change.
 

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I was searching for fuel pump options to keep up with my new Holder 175/30’s and saw more activity on the 6.7 pump over here but it seems the guys that did it all stopped posting about it in 2015. I joined up yesterday so I could learn and share.
I’m working on installing a Driven Diesel regulated return today and if my stock HFCM can’t keep up I’m doing this pump. Rykan said my stock pump will keep up if it’s strong and so did the guys at Strictly Diesel but I have to see it to believe it. I drove it on my stock tune last week and fuel pressure never dropped but with my Gearhead Reduced Fuel tune FP dropped like a rock when I got on it but that was before my reg return install. We will see today if I get it done. I already have my turbo and y pipe out so I’m about to get it on.
I need some photos guys! All the old photobucket photos don’t work any more.
 

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Is the new ‘16-17 6.7 fuel pump the same as the model before? I found Rockauto has them for $199 versus $350 for the prior model pump. I’m doing this because I ran my truck finally and FP drops like a rock with just my Gearhead Reduced Fuel tune.
 

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The filter is different . They increased the volume of water holding capabilities to 6.7 ounces ( 200 ml ) and changed the
WIF sensor ( lower angle ) to combat the 6.7 disaster if you get water up to the CP4 .
It may or may not have the anti siphon valve in the inlet . Couldn't find out much more on this but they were talking about
pulling fuel lines and loosening the cap to to stop fuel drainage while changing the filter .
I don't imagine the output would be any different as there were no complaints about delivery of fuel .
 

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I can add stainless shutoff valves so I can drain the housing before a filter change. I will keep looking into this. I have an Excursion so for the sump install I will probably drill a 6” access hole in the “skid plate” then drill the sump hole then drop the tank to clean it out and plug the old outlet from the sending unit.
I should have bought the fuel bowl delete kit instead of the standard Driven Diesel reg return kit. They are the same price but to add the fuel bowl delete it’s another $210. I’m only running 175/30’s so I may be able to live with the fuel bowl. I’m trying to do this as simple and effective as possible. I have been wrenching on my truck for two months and next days off I’m doing V and Mod B codes and different wheels/tires.
 

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The only concern is the filters . The idea is to not have to buy 6.0 and 6.7 kits . I you could make some form of dummy filter
for the upper bowl ( 6.0 ) and then install the 6.7 secondary filter somewhere in the line after the pump (6.7) . It all
accomplishes the same thing .
The other issue is the delivery lines to the front of the heads ( stock 6.0 ) , the bowl delete kit from Strictly cures this
with larger I.D lines and banjo's .
 

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I installed the standard Driven Diesel regulated return kit on Tuesday. After I do the 6.7 pump I’ll see how the FP holds up and do the Fuel Bowl Delete kit if I have to. I agree on the filters, I would rather just buy the 6.7 filter and do away with the 6.0 upper bowl filter if possible.
 

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So is this newer pump were talking about is a revision for the older one ? It comes up as 05/26/15 > on any listing that pops up . So it must end in 16 , then on from there in 2017 with the pump in the tank .
 

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It must be a typo because on the RockAuto website it shows 2017 Fuel Pump for $199 and it shows photos of a frame mounted pump just like the others.
I found a 2016 frame mount Motorcraft pump for $230 as well. 24 month warranty. But id does show that date at the end of the description “from 5/26/15”.
 

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So the 6AN bulkhead fitting is the return into the top of the sending unit and I just cap the old feed snd return lines correct? I saw Merc82’s photos and that looks like what he did but he went with 8AN return. Which one is correct? You have to run return through the pump to get prime so I assume the return really needs to be 8AN or 1/2”?
Photos help a lot too!
 

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So I just went through the process of installing a 6.7 pump into my 2006 6.0 F250.

It all started with my original pump being weak at WOT. I decided to go this and for some reason or another... I’m still dropping pressure at WOT. My truck idles at 65psi and while cruise, however once I open her up it will drop to around 40psi.

I currently have 175/30 injectors with a stage 2 KC turbo. From the fuel tank I have a sump with 1/2“ line to the pump, from the pump I have 1/2” one to the secondary stock 6.7 filter. I then have 1/2” line to a y that reduces down to 6an lines that feed the front of the heads. From the back of the heads i have 6an lines to the regulated return regulator, from the exit of the regulator i am running a 1/2“ line to the return port on the fuel pump and from there 1/2” line to the sump return.

I am running a reduced fuel tune gearhead.

I have a couple of things that I’m investigating but wanted your guys input.

For starters I need to get my alternator tested, during idle I’m seeing about 12.8 with a multi meter at the batteries. The voltage does increase when i raise the rpms. I’m wondering if it’s possible for the alternator to stop charging at WOT???

The other thing is I bought the pump from a tech that works at the dealer for $50.... the pump looked brand new with no signs of it ever being used. I’m starting to question if it’s good. However it had the factory filter in it still dry and clean.
 

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So I just went through the process of installing a 6.7 pump into my 2006 6.0 F250.

It all started with my original pump being weak at WOT. I decided to go this and for some reason or another... I’m still dropping pressure at WOT. My truck idles at 65psi and while cruise, however once I open her up it will drop to around 40psi.

I currently have 175/30 injectors with a stage 2 KC turbo. From the fuel tank I have a sump with 1/2“ line to the pump, from the pump I have 1/2” one to the secondary stock 6.7 filter. I then have 1/2” line to a y that reduces down to 6an lines that feed the front of the heads. From the back of the heads i have 6an lines to the regulated return regulator, from the exit of the regulator i am running a 1/2“ line to the return port on the fuel pump and from there 1/2” line to the sump return.

I am running a reduced fuel tune gearhead.

I have a couple of things that I’m investigating but wanted your guys input.

For starters I need to get my alternator tested, during idle I’m seeing about 12.8 with a multi meter at the batteries. The voltage does increase when i raise the rpms. I’m wondering if it’s possible for the alternator to stop charging at WOT???

The other thing is I bought the pump from a tech that works at the dealer for $50.... the pump looked brand new with no signs of it ever being used. I’m starting to question if it’s good. However it had the factory filter in it still dry and clean.
As far as the pump goes , when I installed mine , I dead headed the 1/2 " feed line out of the pump and momentarily powered it up . I had a 100 psi guage in the line before the stopper and it buried the guage
in a second or two . On my set up the regulator is set to 60 psi and barely moves @ wot with stock
injectors ( KC Stg 2 also ) running SRL+ .
I don't think 175/30's should need that much fuel to drop to 40 psi . I believe others have run much larger injectors with these pumps without issue . Something is not rite here .
As far as the alternator situation , once the GP's are off it should be higher than 12.8 volts , probably more like 13.6 to 13.8 @ idle .
 
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