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Discussion Starter #1
I know most of us burn veg (VO, WVO) to offset our crazy fuel costs and NOT for the benefits to the environment. That said, I thought ya'll might like to know that you may have more HP and are definitely putting out less emissions when you are burning the greasy.

This is not new knowledge to most of the community, but I had the emissions tester run a second emissions test on my truck with the VO system on (burnin pnut oil) and the following results were reported vs the diesel emissions test I have to send into the state:

Diesel - 230 HP
WVO - 235 HP

Diesel - Opacity at 60, 50 , 40 mph - 9, 9, 8
WVO - Opacity at 60, 50 , 40 mph - 4, 5, 4

The added HP on veg probably has to do with the FASS maintaining a more consistent and higher fuel pressure than the stocker pump on d2.

Almost 50% less opacity (particulates?) on veg is a definite bonus for all of us. Its kind of funny that we measure opacity and not what is actually IN the emissions.:slap:

Veg-on,
 

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I know most of us burn veg (VO, WVO) to offset our crazy fuel costs and NOT for the benefits to the environment. That said, I thought ya'll might like to know that you may have more HP and are definitely putting out less emissions when you are burning the greasy.

This is not new knowledge to most of the community, but I had the emissions tester run a second emissions test on my truck with the VO system on (burnin pnut oil) and the following results were reported vs the diesel emissions test I have to send into the state:

Diesel - 230 HP
WVO - 235 HP
Diesel - Opacity at 60, 50 , 40 mph - 9, 9, 8
WVO - Opacity at 60, 50 , 40 mph - 4, 5, 4

The added HP on veg probably has to do with the FASS maintaining a more consistent and higher fuel pressure than the stocker pump on d2.
Almost 50% less opacity (particulates?) on veg is a definite bonus for all of us. Its kind of funny that we measure opacity and not what is actually IN the emissions.:slap:

Veg-on,
I think you are correct about the FASS pump. Studies have proven that VO will tpically produce up to 10% less horse power/TQ than D2.

NOW here is what I would like to see........the same test, done with D2 VS WMO!

That stuff is nasty.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
d2 vs. wvo vs. bioD vs. wmo

I wonder if BioD would have the same and lesser emissions vs d2...do you still run bio in a two tank heated system to combat winter gelling issues? I thought i read somewhere no veg for you anymore.

WMO would fail the emissions test outright I would imagine, although I have never seen or smelled one running on WMO so I have no experience. UOA's tell the story there, I think it has to be a 50/50 mix to avoid wearing stuff out.

The mechanic was smiling from ear to ear when it made more HP on veg. He seemed a tad skeptical when I asked if he could do it. They got a kick out of my DIY madness. :crazy:
 

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I wonder if BioD would have the same and lesser emissions vs d2...do you still run bio in a two tank heated system to combat winter gelling issues? I thought i read somewhere no veg for you anymore.

B100 would likely have the same emissions as WVO. A two tank system, is not required for b100 use above 30*F. No system modification required above 30*F for B100.

I no longer burn WVO in any of my vehicles.
WMO would fail the emissions test outright I would imagine, although I have never seen or smelled one running on WMO so I have no experience. UOA's tell the story there, I think it has to be a 50/50 mix to avoid wearing stuff out.



The mechanic was smiling from ear to ear when it made more HP on veg. He seemed a tad skeptical when I asked if he could do it. They got a kick out of my DIY madness. :crazy:
The fuel likely had nothing to do with the 5 hp gain.

see above
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no bueno for me on below 30deg...most of November thru April is spent in well below 30deg and some stints below zero looking for waste deep snow. I would be gel-city without a heated system.

I get it that you're done with veg, I'd consider you an expert in the veggie arena, so it bothers me a bit that you've moved on, but to each his own. Running veg in over 10 cars at a time as you do, could drive a person crazy with all of the system issues that can arise on just one car, let alone 10. I'd imagine its way easier to make bio and make the issue the car owner's issue, not the system on the car's issue. Only my a guess though.

I pay for my veg so an added cost to process to bio of $.75/gallon makes it a little tougher to justify, that and my better half will NOT have methanol and lye anywhere near the house...and I agree. I can be a goof and working with questionably safe materials can get dicey for me.

Glad to still see you around.
 

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no bueno for me on below 30deg...most of November thru April is spent in well below 30deg and some stints below zero looking for waste deep snow. I would be gel-city without a heated system.

I get it that you're done with veg, I'd consider you an expert in the veggie arena, so it bothers me a bit that you've moved on, but to each his own. Running veg in over 10 cars at a time as you do, could drive a person crazy with all of the system issues that can arise on just one car, let alone 10. I'd imagine its way easier to make bio and make the issue the car owner's issue, not the system on the car's issue. Only my a guess though.

I pay for my veg so an added cost to process to bio of $.75/gallon makes it a little tougher to justify, that and my better half will NOT have methanol and lye anywhere near the house...and I agree. I can be a goof and working with questionably safe materials can get dicey for me.

Glad to still see you around.

It gets a little cool here in the winter too, sometimes day after day of below zero high temps, and -30*F is not uncomon. BUT, the beauty of B100 is this......all you have to do is get the fuel temp over........about 35*F! Not 160! In my heated garage, I dont have to purge. Drive all day, not worries with a heated system, and not purge at night. In fact, I have not purged the blue truck since November of 2011. Only minimal heat in the system is equired in the winter, and no conversion or modifications are required for about 8 months per year.

Plus the added benefit of the ability to blend D2 and B100, safely in the midship tank to lower cloud point.
 

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The different types of WVO will produce different results in HP and mileage as the BTU range is different for different feedstocks from peanut oil to corn oil to soybean oil, etc. I cant find the chart that breaks them all down but I'll look some more.
 

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Clay, thanks for posting this! Definitely good information to know... I hope to get greased soon


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 

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Clay, where did the 6.4 go?

Veggin, What made you switch from veg to bio? Just that you don't need as much heat making it less complicated? Or was there a specific issue with veg that finally turned you off?
 

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Clay, where did the 6.4 go?
Jason Crawford (inventor of the V3) bought it and will continue the 6.4 vegi conversion to dial in a perfect design. He relocated from OR to NY for a new job and he flew down to OK last Friday and drove off in it on Monday after we lifted the cab to replace the HPFP that had failed. Did an EGR delete while we were in there also.
 

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Veggin, What made you switch from veg to bio? Just that you don't need as much heat making it less complicated? Or was there a specific issue with veg that finally turned you off?
Last summer I had some totes of CF'd WVO made into B100 by a ASTM producer. He raved about the quality of Biodiesel he got with the provided feedstock.......that got me thinking......AND I REALLY enjoyed the B100. Just a much better, more versitile fuel for me. It was easier to handle in the cold, definitely burned better in the PSD's and was generally more appealing. In addition......

The VW ALH and PD TDI engine is too efficient to produce adequate heat for a VO system at temperatures below 10*F. Even with large heat exchangers, TIH, circulation pumps, and coolant heated filter...the engine cannot always hold 160*F coolant temps even with the factory cold front on.

Also, after putting three IP's on the ALH in 35K miles, it was time for something different.

SOOOOOO, late last summer it was time to sit down and put pen to paper, and see what it would take to get into Biodiesel. The result was a Biopro 190 in my shop! I love the machine and the amazing fuel it produces. I have not looked back since, nor do I anticipate doing so. In fact, I am looking into a source of NEW canola, to take it to the next level. My time is worth more than the savings, so buying new oil seems logical at this stage in the game to me. Your results may differ, but for me my career and family are more inportant than vacuuming oil out of a dumpster every weekend.

So now, with all of our diesels already converted, we run B100 all winter and of course in the more mild months too. The only exception is the Excursion which is only a summer toy. 37" Terra Grapplers on snow and ice probably would not be too smart.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My time is worth more than the savings, so buying new oil seems logical at this stage in the game to me.
This definitely becomes a sort of hobby and/or a labor of loving to burn the golden stuff.

What about offering someone $0.20 or $0.25 per gallon to retrieve your source's oil and fill your totes...all of your time can be spent making the fuel. You'd have to find the right person and scenario, just a thought? Or trade some finished bioD for the gathering time needed each week?

Wouldn't NEW canola be based on the commodity market costs for raw unused oil, which I thought was close to $3/gal? There is a weekly report put out that tracks this, somewhere. USDA or ERS.

The VW ALH and PD TDI engine is too efficient to produce adequate heat for a VO system at temperatures below 10*F. Even with large heat exchangers, TIH, circulation pumps, and coolant heated filter...the engine cannot always hold 160*F coolant temps even with the factory cold front on.
Based on this info, it would be safe to say that to convert a Vdub of any type, you almost need a "slightly" heated two tank system in addition to the biodiesel brewing hardware and per gal methanol/lye costs to safely burn b100 in the winter time? The VW kits are way cheaper and a plenty, so this does not discourage me.

Not being able to get over 160 in the dead winter, definitely discourages me on the use of veg in a VW. 12v heat is the only thing you didn't mention above, but this has its own probs for sure...:dunno:
 

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That Biopro 190 looks pretty sweet...One of the things that always scared me away from bio was all the time that went into it, but that looks pretty easy. Is it really as simple as the website makes it sound? If you don't mind me asking, how much does a unit like that cost?

I've been looking for a vehicle for my wife to run on veg, but she doesn't want a big truck and it needs to be four or all wheel drive so that limits us a bit. Maybe some day bio will be the answer...:dunno:
 

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This definitely becomes a sort of hobby and/or a labor of loving to burn the golden stuff.

Wouldn't NEW canola be based on the commodity market costs for raw unused oil, which I thought was close to $3/gal? There is a weekly report put out that tracks this, somewhere. USDA or ERS.
I am into new conola, for the same money as used WVO.


Based on this info, it would be safe to say that to convert a Vdub of any type, you almost need a "slightly" heated two tank system in addition to the biodiesel brewing hardware and per gal methanol/lye costs to safely burn b100 in the winter time? The VW kits are way cheaper and a plenty, so this does not discourage me. A converted VW may work in CA, FL, or somewhere mild. It is a huge challenge in the Frozen Tundra.Not being able to get over 160 in the dead winter, definitely discourages me on the use of veg in a VW. 12v heat is the only thing you didn't mention above, but this has its own probs for sure...:dunno:
If you have the room for the genset, electric heat might work.


see above
 

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37" Terra Grapplers on snow and ice probably would not be too smart.
plz esplain? kinda off topic i know but this stuck out to me. i run them on my H2 and havnt had any issues in ice/snow. im sure you get a LOT more than i do though. anyhow i ask because ill be replacing them soon.
 

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plz esplain? kinda off topic i know but this stuck out to me. i run them on my H2 and havnt had any issues in ice/snow. im sure you get a LOT more than i do though. anyhow i ask because ill be replacing them soon.

Where are you located?? If you get much snow, and especially ice, they probably won't provide very good traction. I run studded snot tires in the winter, but we get TONS of snow...
 

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37" mud grapplers aint gonna cut in a rural Northern Wisconsin winter.

I wonder......
If I could buy chains to fit a 37/13.5/20 tire?
 

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37" mud grapplers aint gonna cut in a rural Northern Wisconsin winter.

I wonder......
If I could buy chains to fit a 37/13.5/20 tire?
I'm sure you can...probably be pricey. I have chains for mine, but I don't remember what the dimensions are off-hand.

I used to think snow tires were a thing of the past, then I moved here and learned that they make all the difference. The best tires I've found are the Blizzak. They're studless and have amazing grip on snow and ice. Unfortunately, they don't make them in the size/load rating for our trucks but for cars and SUVs I would highly recommend them. You won't be disappointed!

(not sure how this turned into a tire discussion, but I try to tell everyone about the Blizzaks)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Blizzaks are the shizzak!

Had a set on my v70R AWD, unbelievable in any snow/ice condition. Expensive.

What you said -->
Unfortunately, they don't make them in the size/load rating for our trucks
Let the snow fly.
 
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