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3,732 Posts
EDIT
Around post 1XX someone asked me to consolidate the post. The post turned from a what is done to make a larger injector to how you or I can make a modest sized injector at home or in conjunction with a local machine shop. So I made mine with the help of a local machinist since I do not have a lathe available to me. He was very hesitant to do what I asked, but after it was all said and done, it was an fairly easy process to do. Both the plunger and intensifier piston can be turned down on a lathe, but care must be taken to not damage the pieces in the chuck. For the DLC coated plunger, it was turned down using a diamond lapping wheel. Please read the rest of the post, especially where the photos and video are. Some will be included in the edited post.
First some basics:
The plunger bore is 6.34mm in diameter.
Below the spill port, the maximum volume is 0.178cc. At rest the plunger sits just above the spill port and at maximum extension it sits 0.025- 0.029" from the end of the barrel, giving about 0.135cc of injection.
The raw volume of a stock injector bore at rest is about 177ml! Losses to give about 135ml are the end gap (23ml) and the spill port (20ml).
You can increase the stroke to give a chamber volume of about 0.205cc before spill port losses affect the idle or performance characteristics. This will create a flow of just under 0.190cc.
If you want to go larger, do the math and be prepared to plug the spill-ports with 3.5mm brass rod or add shims to the top of the fuel plate. Read on!
Injectors are expensive. Work carefully because no one will sell you parts.
The barrels and plungers are matched - KEEP THE TOGETHER AS A SET - MARK WITH A SHARPIE. The tolerances are very tight. See Lilpooh"s measurements further down in the post #89.
Although all the plungers will be about 46.50mm, to ensure a good results, take off specific amounts, do not just make each part the same length. This plunger has 0.030" taken off the end. (I also took 0.020 off the clevis end - this was a mistake on my part and required me to make an adjustment to my intensifier piston and shim). For a 175cc injector modification the plunger needs to be shortened about 0.030" (0.633mm) to convert to a 175 volume. Compare the plunger below to the photo in post #7. The intensifier piston is about 21.43mm in length. To create the increased stroke, this needs to be shortened 0.050" 1.267mm to create a 175cc injector. See photos post #6. Ensure you have 0.002" (possibly more) clearance from the plunger to the end of the bore. If you go tighter, there is the possibility that the plunger will contact the fuel plate at max PW for your injector/nozzle selection. For a 175/75 injector, max fuelling will happen about 2.6ms PW.
<<< I deliberately went tight to the bottom of the bore (<0.001") with the plunger stroke. During a test run in the truck, at a high ICP and a PW of 2.6, my injectors are completely empty. How do I know? Well, I could hear an occasional slight ping. I thought this might happen, so to prevent damage, I will decrease the PW slightly on my extreme tune. Of course, I could go back and trim the plunger another 0.001". >>>
I measured another set of injectors. The intensifier bore depth was out slightly on some of them. I had similar results on the first set as well. Lilpooh shows 0.029" as the space available, but I had a few that were as tight as 0.025". It would be a good idea to measure the shims to see if they are different thicknesses as well to make up for the bore depth. Most of the ones I have seen are within 0.002 of each other.
After thinking about it a little longer, it is probably a good idea to leave a minimum of 0.005" as a buffer for the plunger to fuel plate clearance. So what ever you cut from the intensifier piston, cut 0.020" less off the plunger. I would cut 0.035" max of the hammer end of the plunger, and cut the remaining amount from the clevis end.
So for 190cc injectors, the chamber would need to be 6.63mm deep to keep the plunger safe from bottoming out. and the total stroke would be 6.5.mm. Again, keep in mind the plunger in a stock injector sits about 5.6mm from the fuel plate at rest (volume 177ml) but does not travel full length (loss of 22ml) and looses some out the spill port to give about a 135 injector. This is why a simple plug gives you a 155cc injector. This is also why you don't necessarily need to cut 0.087" (2.21mm) off the plunger to achieve the desired travel for a 190cc injector. You could, but it is not as efficient as moving the plunger down the bore by cutting more off the piston.
For a 190 injector cut about 0.065"off the intensifier piston and 0.045"off the plunger. Remember that the 0.035" you take off the bottom of the plunger does not affect the DLC wall or even the spill-port interaction. You could cut a bit more off (0.005"-0.010"), but the gain would be marginal at best and only at WOT.
In post #97 I wrote about the issues surrounding fuel flow for horsepower, torque, nozzles and PW (pulse width). It is a good read for determining what you need to reach a certain HP level and how PW and ICP is needed to deliver the fuel. I used 75% over nozzles that were extrude honed by Chatham Fuel Injector Services in Canada.
The torque values are:
Cross bolt = 0.5 Nm (very little torque) - this is probably why some break after a rebuild or inspection. I used a lot more torque to remove them!
Two hold down bolts = 3 Nm (a bit more torque)
Nozzle nut = 85 lb/ft** (about as much as you can pull with a normal wrench - it probably fine at 60 lb/ft). ** I came across an article recommending 55lb/ft. I used about 60lb/ft when I did mine. Perhaps the 85 was a transcribing error?
Here are 3 videos of the injector internals and how easy they should move. Included are shots of the spill ports for both fuel and oil. The outer casing is already take off and the nozzles are missing, since they are out for extrude honing to a larger size. All the moving parts should move this easily, without any play. I went very tight to the end, hopefully it won't cause any problems. Of course, if I don't exceed the PW for 100% flow, it should work. I mentioned the pressure for higher ICP, but the range is 3500-27000psi.
Here is them idling in the truck after installation.
I only had the SCT Performance tune on it for the installation, just to see how it behaved on start. If I go WOT, I get hazing, but the temps are quite good; all probably due to the 75% nozzles. Anything under 50% pedal is clean. I suspect with a hot tune (larger PW) and the stage 1 at WOT it will be dark, but how often are you going to do that in while driving. There is no doubt a bigger turbo is needed if you plan on playing hard - but that is another thread.
The fuel milage is crazy good! Up from 19mpg to 27+mpg on the same tune, possibly from the nozzles? I have to get a manual calculation done! I suspect the PCM calculates fuel consumption based on ICP and injector PW a model for a stock injector and nozzle.
There is a lot of good information in the remaining 161 (my in truck running report) or so posts; however, as with anything posted on the internet, you are responsible to ensure all measurements and movement are valid before you do this yourself. This was a relatively easy adventure. The only thing I would have changed is I would have used 50% over nozzles.
_______________________________
Original Post
First off, this post is more for information, so if you don't know what is involved, don't guess. I will start off with a few assumptions, but they may be incomplete. At the end of the process, the myth about building larger injectors should be known to all. However, just because you know the process, doesn't mean you can pull it off yourself. I know of at least 10 re-builders/re-manufacturers, but only 4 modification shops. There are probably a number of other commercial, private or self builders, so with the right knowledge and skill set it might be possible for members here to DIY or with outside machine work. However, the tolerances are very tight, so if you try it yourself or have inferior work done at a "shop", then understand the result.
For regular injector modification, I believe the primary change is plunger length. If you were to machine off XX from the plunger end you increase the charge available for injection. At some point you may require other changes to ensure enough fuel makes it into the chamber in time for the next injection. I believe most modifiers now increase the diameter of the fuel intake for injectors larger than 190cc, but some may even do it for 190s. Knowing it take a very good lathe to have reliable tolerances of 0.0005", what is the amount of material removed from the plunger (or its new length) for 155cc, 175cc or 190cc injectors? There is a limit to how large you can go, before more modifications are required. What is that point, and what happens next? For instance, Hybrids, with larger barrels, plungers and intensifier pistons, are used over 300cc.
As well, what is being done to the spill ports lately?
I have written about nozzles in another post. There is no way these can be reliably made without very specialized equipment. EDM, honing and a combination of the 2 are the only way to make them reliably matched. However, they could be installed by a DIYer with the right tools and guidance.
Around post 1XX someone asked me to consolidate the post. The post turned from a what is done to make a larger injector to how you or I can make a modest sized injector at home or in conjunction with a local machine shop. So I made mine with the help of a local machinist since I do not have a lathe available to me. He was very hesitant to do what I asked, but after it was all said and done, it was an fairly easy process to do. Both the plunger and intensifier piston can be turned down on a lathe, but care must be taken to not damage the pieces in the chuck. For the DLC coated plunger, it was turned down using a diamond lapping wheel. Please read the rest of the post, especially where the photos and video are. Some will be included in the edited post.
First some basics:
The plunger bore is 6.34mm in diameter.
Below the spill port, the maximum volume is 0.178cc. At rest the plunger sits just above the spill port and at maximum extension it sits 0.025- 0.029" from the end of the barrel, giving about 0.135cc of injection.
The raw volume of a stock injector bore at rest is about 177ml! Losses to give about 135ml are the end gap (23ml) and the spill port (20ml).
You can increase the stroke to give a chamber volume of about 0.205cc before spill port losses affect the idle or performance characteristics. This will create a flow of just under 0.190cc.
If you want to go larger, do the math and be prepared to plug the spill-ports with 3.5mm brass rod or add shims to the top of the fuel plate. Read on!
Injectors are expensive. Work carefully because no one will sell you parts.
The barrels and plungers are matched - KEEP THE TOGETHER AS A SET - MARK WITH A SHARPIE. The tolerances are very tight. See Lilpooh"s measurements further down in the post #89.
Although all the plungers will be about 46.50mm, to ensure a good results, take off specific amounts, do not just make each part the same length. This plunger has 0.030" taken off the end. (I also took 0.020 off the clevis end - this was a mistake on my part and required me to make an adjustment to my intensifier piston and shim). For a 175cc injector modification the plunger needs to be shortened about 0.030" (0.633mm) to convert to a 175 volume. Compare the plunger below to the photo in post #7. The intensifier piston is about 21.43mm in length. To create the increased stroke, this needs to be shortened 0.050" 1.267mm to create a 175cc injector. See photos post #6. Ensure you have 0.002" (possibly more) clearance from the plunger to the end of the bore. If you go tighter, there is the possibility that the plunger will contact the fuel plate at max PW for your injector/nozzle selection. For a 175/75 injector, max fuelling will happen about 2.6ms PW.
<<< I deliberately went tight to the bottom of the bore (<0.001") with the plunger stroke. During a test run in the truck, at a high ICP and a PW of 2.6, my injectors are completely empty. How do I know? Well, I could hear an occasional slight ping. I thought this might happen, so to prevent damage, I will decrease the PW slightly on my extreme tune. Of course, I could go back and trim the plunger another 0.001". >>>
I measured another set of injectors. The intensifier bore depth was out slightly on some of them. I had similar results on the first set as well. Lilpooh shows 0.029" as the space available, but I had a few that were as tight as 0.025". It would be a good idea to measure the shims to see if they are different thicknesses as well to make up for the bore depth. Most of the ones I have seen are within 0.002 of each other.
After thinking about it a little longer, it is probably a good idea to leave a minimum of 0.005" as a buffer for the plunger to fuel plate clearance. So what ever you cut from the intensifier piston, cut 0.020" less off the plunger. I would cut 0.035" max of the hammer end of the plunger, and cut the remaining amount from the clevis end.
So for 190cc injectors, the chamber would need to be 6.63mm deep to keep the plunger safe from bottoming out. and the total stroke would be 6.5.mm. Again, keep in mind the plunger in a stock injector sits about 5.6mm from the fuel plate at rest (volume 177ml) but does not travel full length (loss of 22ml) and looses some out the spill port to give about a 135 injector. This is why a simple plug gives you a 155cc injector. This is also why you don't necessarily need to cut 0.087" (2.21mm) off the plunger to achieve the desired travel for a 190cc injector. You could, but it is not as efficient as moving the plunger down the bore by cutting more off the piston.
For a 190 injector cut about 0.065"off the intensifier piston and 0.045"off the plunger. Remember that the 0.035" you take off the bottom of the plunger does not affect the DLC wall or even the spill-port interaction. You could cut a bit more off (0.005"-0.010"), but the gain would be marginal at best and only at WOT.

In post #97 I wrote about the issues surrounding fuel flow for horsepower, torque, nozzles and PW (pulse width). It is a good read for determining what you need to reach a certain HP level and how PW and ICP is needed to deliver the fuel. I used 75% over nozzles that were extrude honed by Chatham Fuel Injector Services in Canada.
The torque values are:
Cross bolt = 0.5 Nm (very little torque) - this is probably why some break after a rebuild or inspection. I used a lot more torque to remove them!
Two hold down bolts = 3 Nm (a bit more torque)
Nozzle nut = 85 lb/ft** (about as much as you can pull with a normal wrench - it probably fine at 60 lb/ft). ** I came across an article recommending 55lb/ft. I used about 60lb/ft when I did mine. Perhaps the 85 was a transcribing error?
Here are 3 videos of the injector internals and how easy they should move. Included are shots of the spill ports for both fuel and oil. The outer casing is already take off and the nozzles are missing, since they are out for extrude honing to a larger size. All the moving parts should move this easily, without any play. I went very tight to the end, hopefully it won't cause any problems. Of course, if I don't exceed the PW for 100% flow, it should work. I mentioned the pressure for higher ICP, but the range is 3500-27000psi.
Here is them idling in the truck after installation.
I only had the SCT Performance tune on it for the installation, just to see how it behaved on start. If I go WOT, I get hazing, but the temps are quite good; all probably due to the 75% nozzles. Anything under 50% pedal is clean. I suspect with a hot tune (larger PW) and the stage 1 at WOT it will be dark, but how often are you going to do that in while driving. There is no doubt a bigger turbo is needed if you plan on playing hard - but that is another thread.
The fuel milage is crazy good! Up from 19mpg to 27+mpg on the same tune, possibly from the nozzles? I have to get a manual calculation done! I suspect the PCM calculates fuel consumption based on ICP and injector PW a model for a stock injector and nozzle.
There is a lot of good information in the remaining 161 (my in truck running report) or so posts; however, as with anything posted on the internet, you are responsible to ensure all measurements and movement are valid before you do this yourself. This was a relatively easy adventure. The only thing I would have changed is I would have used 50% over nozzles.
_______________________________
Original Post
First off, this post is more for information, so if you don't know what is involved, don't guess. I will start off with a few assumptions, but they may be incomplete. At the end of the process, the myth about building larger injectors should be known to all. However, just because you know the process, doesn't mean you can pull it off yourself. I know of at least 10 re-builders/re-manufacturers, but only 4 modification shops. There are probably a number of other commercial, private or self builders, so with the right knowledge and skill set it might be possible for members here to DIY or with outside machine work. However, the tolerances are very tight, so if you try it yourself or have inferior work done at a "shop", then understand the result.
For regular injector modification, I believe the primary change is plunger length. If you were to machine off XX from the plunger end you increase the charge available for injection. At some point you may require other changes to ensure enough fuel makes it into the chamber in time for the next injection. I believe most modifiers now increase the diameter of the fuel intake for injectors larger than 190cc, but some may even do it for 190s. Knowing it take a very good lathe to have reliable tolerances of 0.0005", what is the amount of material removed from the plunger (or its new length) for 155cc, 175cc or 190cc injectors? There is a limit to how large you can go, before more modifications are required. What is that point, and what happens next? For instance, Hybrids, with larger barrels, plungers and intensifier pistons, are used over 300cc.
As well, what is being done to the spill ports lately?
I have written about nozzles in another post. There is no way these can be reliably made without very specialized equipment. EDM, honing and a combination of the 2 are the only way to make them reliably matched. However, they could be installed by a DIYer with the right tools and guidance.