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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have an 08 F350 Job 1 with 63,000miles (102,000ish kms) and the 6.4.

My reason for starting this thread is because I have decided to start doing my own oil changes on my truck. I cannot justify paying $150 at the dealership anymore.

According to the manual I can go 16,000kms between oil changes in normal conditions, however, where I live in Canada we see -60 degrees F (-40degrees c) or colder in the winter time. In the summer time we often see 95 degrees F (35 degrees c). So, I cannot run the same weight oil year round according to the manual.

I don't do a huge amount of driving and I don't tow very often and when I do its a 18.5ft boat in the summer and a small double wide snowmobile trailer in the winter.

Now, my dealership said because of our weather I have to use the "Extreme" category for maintenance. But since I don't tow, and I don't drive grids, and my rush hour traffic is 15 minutes morning and night, I figured i should be able to modify this a bit.

I am looking at changing oil 2 times a year. I have planned on running the standard dino 15w40 oil in the summer time at the 16,000 km's or until winter sets in and the temp drops below freezing (Beginning of April-end of October).

I am planning on running 5W40 Synthetic from November until the end of March. This should take into account our "Extreme" conditions for the winter and with the amount of driving I do, would keep me close to what Ford recommends for the limits. It is also in an insulated garage with the exception of the 10 hours a day I am at work and it is plugged in all day long both while in the garage and at work once it gets below 14 degrees farenheight or -10 degrees celcius. I also run a hunk of cardboard infront of the radiator all winter long which blocks off probably 80% of the air flow.

I am planning on running Shell Rotella T Dino in the summer and Shell Rotella T Synthetic in the winter. We have a very limited selection of CJ4 oil here and this is about the only synthetic i can find that is readily available.

Now, my only conern is am I risking damage to seals, engine, etc. from switching back and forth between the 2 oils. I have heard in the past that once you go synthetic you can never go back to traditional oil. I also heard that synthetic oil will make its way through your seals, etc and leaks that you never knew about will suddenly show up. But I think that might be old wives tails.

Is this an acceptible maintanance regime or should I be considering something different?

Thanks for your input guys.

Oh also, is there a home brew engine flush that a guy could use to clean out as much of the gunk that may be in the oil and passages between oil changes? When I worked at a quick lube place we use to pour a litre of aft in with the oil and run the truck for 5 or 10 minutes to help clean everything out. The aft is mostly detergents and it worked really well with the gassers, but I would hate to do it and wreck the engine.
 

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15W-40 dino in the summer (Rotella T or Duron) and 0W-40 synthetic in the winter (Rotella TSB or Duron) is the routine we have always followed with no issues across a multitude of 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4 trucks.

Petro-Canada Duron-E is CJ-4 compliant and readily available at any PC bulk lubricant dealer in 4L and 20L as well as larger containers as wanted.
 

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Now, my only conern is am I risking damage to seals, engine, etc. from switching back and forth between the 2 oils. I have heard in the past that once you go synthetic you can never go back to traditional oil. I also heard that synthetic oil will make its way through your seals, etc and leaks that you never knew about will suddenly show up. But I think that might be old wives tails.

Is this an acceptible maintanance regime or should I be considering something different?

Thanks for your input guys.

Oh also, is there a home brew engine flush that a guy could use to clean out as much of the gunk that may be in the oil and passages between oil changes? When I worked at a quick lube place we use to pour a litre of aft in with the oil and run the truck for 5 or 10 minutes to help clean everything out. The aft is mostly detergents and it worked really well with the gassers, but I would hate to do it and wreck the engine.
Yes, those are old wives tales. Feel free to switch back and forth between traditional and synthetic at will.

I don't know what your prices are for oil up there, but I get four gallons of Rotella 15w-40 for $44, or four gallons of RTS 5w-40 for $76. Add $19 for a Motorcraft filter, and DIY it is still way less than the $150 your dealer is charging.

I would not consider any flushing of the motor with additives. Remember the engine retains a couple of quarts of oil no matter how long you let it drain through the plug.

I would personally do the 2x a year oil change with RTS 5w-40 and Motorcraft (or equivalent) filter and call it good. No need for extra steps/inconvenience/costs for flushing or switching oil types or viscosities.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yes, those are old wives tales. Feel free to switch back and forth between traditional and synthetic at will.

I don't know what your prices are for oil up there, but I get four gallons of Rotella 15w-40 for $44, or four gallons of RTS 5w-40 for $76. Add $19 for a Motorcraft filter, and DIY it is still way less than the $150 your dealer is charging.

I would not consider any flushing of the motor with additives. Remember the engine retains a couple of quarts of oil no matter how long you let it drain through the plug.

I would personally do the 2x a year oil change with RTS 5w-40 and Motorcraft (or equivalent) filter and call it good. No need for extra steps/inconvenience/costs for flushing or switching oil types or viscosities.
Thanks for the input guys!. Looks like I am not off the mark with my thinking.

Rotella T 15W40 is on sale right now for $60 for a 20L pail. The Synthetic is $127.40 for 20L locally and I ordered a filter for $15 from Cobbs Performance Diesel when I ordered my drop in afeprodryS air filter so i hope its a good one.

I was thinking that I would go with the synthetic this winter and see how I like it. If there is a noticeable improvement in the way the motor runs and performs than in the spring I will decide if I want to continue this route for the summer or switch over to the heavier 15W40.

If i don't see any real improvements in performance using the synthetic than next winter I may drop down to a dino 0-30 or 0-40 oil for the winter, if they exist.

Nice to know that our regular oil is on par with the pricing you guys pay. I am driving 4 hours tomorrow to buy the Mercon SP in Minot because It is $15 a litre here and only $3.39 a quart in Minot. Talk about Highway Robbery...and the worst part is that the crude oil was likley pulled from our oil fields up here!!!
 

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Rotella T 15W40 is on sale right now for $60 for a 20L pail. The Synthetic is $127.40 for 20L.

I was thinking that I would go with the synthetic this winter and see how I like it. If there is a noticeable improvement in the way the motor runs and performs than in the spring I will decide if I want to continue this route for the summer or switch over to the heavier 15W40.

If i don't see any real improvements in performance using the synthetic than next winter I may drop down to a dino 0-30 or 0-40 oil for the winter, if they exist.
I would shop around for the oil, we pay just under $100 for 20L pails of 0W-40 locally (Edmonton) and ~$7/L for Mercon SP.

Otherwise 0W-40 is a holdover from the HEUI injector trucks for us as we still have one in the "fleet" but switching over to 5W-40 does not seem to have any advantage anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would shop around for the oil, we pay just under $100 for 20L pails of 0W-40 locally (Edmonton) and ~$7/L for Mercon SP.

Otherwise 0W-40 is a holdover from the HEUI injector trucks for us as we still have one in the "fleet" but switching over to 5W-40 does not seem to have any advantage anyways.
Thats the ****ty thing. You would think that regina is big enough to have selection and variety. But there is nothing but 15W40dyno oil at walmart and canadian tire here in regina. And even then, only 1 option. At the bumper to bumper that i buy everything at, all they had was the shell rotella in the synthetic and regular...and they actually told me to try the bulk shell place which is where i got these prices from.

I guess i will have to try the other bulk oil places and see if they are any better.

I may end up getting mobile 1 if the price is good while down in minot anways.

Your lucky to only pay $7 for the mercon. You probably pay way less for the tranny flushes as well. Here they want 450 and one dealership, 350 at the other and that includes the tranny bypass filter. Its $145 for me to get it done in Minot. But I decided to buy the oil in Minot and pay the $100 to get ford to do the flush while supplying my own filter and oil. I figure this way if theres a warranty problem with the tranny then i dont have to drive down to minot .
 

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Try the HD truck shops as well, IE Redhead, Traction, Fort Garry, Regina Volvo etc. for engine oil. Our trucks only go to the dealer for warranty work otherwise it is done mostly "in house".
 

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The oil seal thing is not an old wives tail, it was very true 40 years ago when the oil guys didn't understand everything the other guys were doing with the engine.

While Modern Urban Lore remembers only "synthetic", the full story was, "Stay with the oil you used to break it in with until the next rebuild." Didn't matter whether it was synthetic or refined, simply changing to a different brand or model oil would prompt seals to start leaking.

What was happening was the seal absorbed oil and swelled, helping keep the seal. If one changed to a different oil the swelling often went down as the old oil leeched out. No more pressure to maintain the seal. Leak.

Eventually this mechanism was understood. Today seal swelling properties are part of the API-SAE spec. Can swap between anything and not have any oil leak problems caused by the swap.

I second the notion of 5W40 year round. Too much trouble to buy 5 gallons of oil only to use just under 4 gallons then have to wait another year to use the remaining partial. Based on the description I don't expect one will be reaching 5,000 miles in 6 months, but I'd change every 6 months just because of the short trips.

I don't drive my truck very often but when I do its at least 75 miles in the morning and 75 miles in the afternoon. Thats to/from the closest legal place to ride dirtbikes.

Back on topic, I don't understand a 63,000 mile 2008 model truck that "isn't driven very much." Guessing the O.P. recently purchased a used truck?

Agree with the dealer that 15 minute commutes constitute extreme duty. The 6.4L has 15 quarts of oil and 7 gallons of coolant to warm up, not including all the iron and aluminum in the engine. Mine takes 4 to 8 miles on a warm day before the temperature needles stabilize.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Back on topic, I don't understand a 63,000 mile 2008 model truck that "isn't driven very much." Guessing the O.P. recently purchased a used truck?

Agree with the dealer that 15 minute commutes constitute extreme duty. The 6.4L has 15 quarts of oil and 7 gallons of coolant to warm up, not including all the iron and aluminum in the engine. Mine takes 4 to 8 miles on a warm day before the temperature needles stabilize.
Yes, I purchased the truck used from a friend that does a lot of driving. I purchased it in November of 2008 and he bought it used only 6 months earlier with maybe 10,000 miles on it.
 

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I am looking at changing oil 2 times a year. I have planned on running the standard dino 15w40 oil in the summer time at the 16,000 km's or until winter sets in and the temp drops below freezing (Beginning of April-end of October).

I am planning on running 5W40 Synthetic from November until the end of March. This should take into account our "Extreme" conditions for the winter and with the amount of driving I do, would keep me close to what Ford recommends for the limits. It is also in an insulated garage with the exception of the 10 hours a day I am at work and it is plugged in all day long both while in the garage and at work once it gets below 14 degrees farenheight or -10 degrees celcius. I also run a hunk of cardboard infront of the radiator all winter long which blocks off probably 80% of the air flow.

I am planning on running Shell Rotella T Dino in the summer and Shell Rotella T Synthetic in the winter. We have a very limited selection of CJ4 oil here and this is about the only synthetic i can find that is readily available.
Normally I do nothing when switching from dino to synthetic, but I defnitely don't switch back and forth every other oil change. Since you're only talking about a savings difference one change per year, I would use the synthetic year-round.

Now, my only conern is am I risking damage to seals, engine, etc. from switching back and forth between the 2 oils. I have heard in the past that once you go synthetic you can never go back to traditional oil. I also heard that synthetic oil will make its way through your seals, etc and leaks that you never knew about will suddenly show up. But I think that might be old wives tails.
These were true back in the early days of synthetic oil. Since then, seal materials and oil manufacturers have come together so that it's now hard to find any seal or oil that isn't 100% compatible.

That said, synthetic oil wicks better than dino, so if you have a small leak expect it to leak a little faster with the synthetic.

Is this an acceptible maintanance regime or should I be considering something different?

Thanks for your input guys.

Oh also, is there a home brew engine flush that a guy could use to clean out as much of the gunk that may be in the oil and passages between oil changes? When I worked at a quick lube place we use to pour a litre of aft in with the oil and run the truck for 5 or 10 minutes to help clean everything out. The aft is mostly detergents and it worked really well with the gassers, but I would hate to do it and wreck the engine.
I would not do that. I would just drain as completely as possible and use the different oil. You're going to have a fraction of the old stuff in there for the next change - I'd rather it be dino motor oil than ATF.

Dave
 

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Idk why you don't use synthetic all year..

I local large construction conducted a study with amsoil synthetics and found that by using synthetics they saved 80% in wear cost.. I know this for a fact..
Just fyi
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wasn't wanting to do the flush between changes...I wanted to do it now because, well, I am probably a little over and wanted to get it as clean as possible before putting the new oil in.
 

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Wonton: Look at Auto-Rx Engine Cleaner Transmissions Motorcycles Stop Leaky Seals Oil Burning Increase MPG Better Gas Mileage Trouble Shifting ARX I poured in 2 bottles of Rx on my first oil change after buying my truck... Only by my ears and seat of my pants feel... this product over 1500 miles began to quiet my idle and I definatly gained better throttle response. I ran 2 cleaning cycles, since my 7.3L had 260K miles on her when I took it over... Just a true cleaning additive that seems to do as it states.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ford Said I don't need to use synthetic. I have never used it on anything but my snowmobile and want to try it in this truck. I wanted to know if it was ok to switch back and forth because this would be my trial and if I am not happy with the results I wanted to know that I could go back to the regular oil without causing harm.
 

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I wanted to know if it was ok to switch back and forth because this would be my trial and if I am not happy with the results I wanted to know that I could go back to the regular oil without causing harm.

Most certainly Yes!
 

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I local large construction conducted a study with amsoil synthetics and found that by using synthetics they saved 80% in wear cost.. I know this for a fact..
Just fyi
Amsoil is SO expensive though. Ditto for Royal Purple. Mobil1 at Wallyworld is an excellent oil for a fraction of the Amsoil price.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Amsoil is SO expensive though. Ditto for Royal Purple. Mobil1 at Wallyworld is an excellent oil for a fraction of the Amsoil price.
You guys are so lucky. Our walmart only stocks like 2 different diesel oils and only 1 of them are CJ4 compliant...and I don't think they have synthetic even.

I am thinking that my best bet is the Rotella T 5W40.

Another reason why I figured I had to switching back and forth from dyno to synthetic was because I cannot find a full synthetic oil in any weight over 5W40 and my manual says I need 15W40 for the summer and that weight is only available in Dyno.
I am sure I have not seen a synthetic in 10W30 either which would work for summer as well.
 

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You guys are so lucky. Our walmart only stocks like 2 different diesel oils and only 1 of them are CJ4 compliant...and I don't think they have synthetic even.

I am thinking that my best bet is the Rotella T 5W40.

Another reason why I figured I had to switching back and forth from dyno to synthetic was because I cannot find a full synthetic oil in any weight over 5W40 and my manual says I need 15W40 for the summer and that weight is only available in Dyno.
I am sure I have not seen a synthetic in 10W30 either which would work for summer as well.
I use Rotella T 5w40 Synthetic in my trucks year round an 02 7.3L, 05 6.0L, and an 08 6.4L. It is a great oil and if I were you just stick to synthetic year round. Especially if you are only changing the oil every 6 months.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, through more research I have sourced a decent selection of oil!!!


I have access to regular, blended and Synthetic Petrocan from 0W-40 to 15W-40
I also have the shell Rotella T 15W40 Conventional and 5W40 Synthetic

And Boss Lubricants has the largest selection with blends from 0W-40 to 15W-40 and synthetic of 0W-40 to 15W-40 and 10W-30 in all 3 options.

I also found out that I can get a test kit and send of samples for testing for about $30. So, I think for now I am going to try a Blended 5W-40 this winter and see how it performs and I am going to send off my current sample of oil for testing to see how it comes back. If my conventional comes back good than I have no reason to go with a full synthetic. The blended has all the options I need.

I have also been told talking to these dealers that they have customers that run 0W-40 year round with no problems whatsoever. I don't tow much at all and though that I may just stick with a 5W-40 blend if I am happy with my winter trial run.

Anyone here running a 10W-30 year round in cold weather and having any issues with cold weather?
 

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Another reason why I figured I had to switching back and forth from dyno to synthetic was because I cannot find a full synthetic oil in any weight over 5W40 and my manual says I need 15W40 for the summer and that weight is only available in Dyno.
15w-40 is a viscosity typical of mineral oils. The equivalent synthetic will be 10w-40 or 5w-40. With synthetics the cold and hot viscosity numbers get farther apart, that's one of their advantages.

I am buying my first diesel next week. I plan on using the CJ-4 compliant Mobil1 or Rotella synthetic year-round depending on which is more available.

David
 
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