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Discussion Starter #1
I have an early 2006 F250 6.0 Fx4 that had 82,000 miles on it when I bought it. It's got 124,000 on it now. For quite some time it's been missing alot, usually when you're at or above 1500 RPM. Going down the highway it sputters and misses pretty bad. Sometimes it runs like a champ, but 90 percent of the time it misses. I've had people tell me it's an injector issue. Here lately it's started a new issue. When I start it after it's been sitting for a long time it starts. Then, once you drive it for a little while and shut it off, it won't start back up unless you let it sit for 45 minutes or so. It'll just turn over until the batteries are drained. I had a few people tell me it's the fuel pump under the frame getting weak and failing to operate when it gets hot. Any ideas? Thanks. Larry
 

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the no start hot sounds like a high pressure oil leak. you need to get a scanner that you can monitor icp while cranking. if it's low than you need to air test the system and see where the leak is. stc fitting is very common. if that is the problem there's a very good chance that eventually it will leave you stranded and won't start at all.
 

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It's the connector from the high pressure oil pump to the branch tube. It's located under the turbo under the aluminum cover. need to pull turbo to access. can remove cover without removing egr cooler. to air test you need to remove the allen head plug on top of the oil pump and put shop air in there. you also need to apply battery voltage to your ipr valve which is located on the hpop also. you should only hear minimal air leakage back there due to the oil drain hole in the back of the hpop. i usually try to plug it off with my finger to see if i hear any other hissing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Will plugging my truck in during the colder months keep my truck from starting?
 

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I don't think so, the block heater is into the coolant in the side of the block. there will be some heat transfer to the oil but i don't think that it should heat up the oil enough that it won't start.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you have any idea what that would cost or how many shop hours the book says that job would be?
 

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Diagnosing and replacing the stc fitting will probobly be around 10 or 11 hours. It should be properly diagnosed first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Tear down pictures

I decided to tear down the passenger side this weekend.

1. Disconnected the batteries, removed the passenger one to make more room.
2. Unplugged the glow plug module and tied the wires back toward the center of the engine to get them out of the way.
3. Removed the glow plug module bracket hold down nuts and got that out of the way, along with the oil fill tube.
4. Removed the inner fender apron.
5. Removed the valve cover bolts, accessing the back ones on the bottom by reaching up under the passenger front tire with a 12 mm end wrench.
6. Removed the valve cover and the T30 bolts that hold down the high pressure oil rail. There's about 1" of room between the top of bolt head and the evaporator box on the back 2 bottom bolts. For these I used a T30 screwdriver bit. I placed it in the head of the bolt, then put the closed end of a 1/4" end wrench over the bit to turn it. Once they busted loose I was able to use my fingers to remove them the rest of the way.
7. Removed the back plug on the rail that holds the stand pipe in place. It tried to pull the stand pipe out too and was kind of a tight fit. I ended up CAREFULLY slipping a small flathead screwdriver in the gap and turned it sideways in order to get the plug to come loose from the stand pipe.
8. Removed the high pressure oil rail and stand pipe.

Once I had everything neatly placed on a towel on my tailgate, I took the dummy plug out of the front end of the rail, as well as the other plugs to inspect all of the O rings. Sure enough, the bottom O ring on the dummy plug had a big marred spot on it. I am hoping this was my no-start hot problem. Monday when I get off work I'm going to Ford to order the O rings that go on both plugs and the stand pipe. I figure i'll replace them all while it's tore down. I wish I had the money to buy 4 new injectors at this time too, but that will have to wait. As for the injectors that are in it now, I don't guess pulling them out would do any good. Would it be smart to replace the O rings on them too? Any suggestions or comments are welcomed.
 

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If I were in it that far, i would go ahead and replace the STC fitting, that's a known issue to cause hot not starts in 05 an up trucks. Very common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was planning on putting the passenger side back together once I replace the bad O ring to see if that fixes my problem. I'm sure my STC fitting is on it's way out, if it's not already. I was under the impression that the STC is under the turbo, that's why I didn't think putting the passenger side back together would hinder my access to it. I hate to open up too much of the engine at one time, increasing the risk of dropping something down inside. Pulling the turbo and working on top of the valley to get to the HPOP while having a valve cover and oil rail off seems pretty risky to me. I would rather do one side at a time, then do the STC by itself too. That way if something does get dropped off the side of the engine, it will just bounce off the valve cover to the floor instead of inside.
 

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I was planning on putting the passenger side back together once I replace the bad O ring to see if that fixes my problem. I'm sure my STC fitting is on it's way out, if it's not already. I was under the impression that the STC is under the turbo, that's why I didn't think putting the passenger side back together would hinder my access to it. I hate to open up too much of the engine at one time, increasing the risk of dropping something down inside. Pulling the turbo and working on top of the valley to get to the HPOP while having a valve cover and oil rail off seems pretty risky to me. I would rather do one side at a time, then do the STC by itself too. That way if something does get dropped off the side of the engine, it will just bounce off the valve cover to the floor instead of inside.
I agree with that. There is nothing that is going to benefit you to leave that valve cover off. And btw my parts guy informed me that the d-rings for the stand pipe and the dummy plug are not available separately anymore. :doh: I think now they are only available from Ford as the standpipe and dummy plug. Your local dealer might have the old d-ring kit in stock yet but just so you are aware of this when you go to your dealer.:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wonderful. LOL! I wonder what a stand pipe and dummy plug is going to cost me? Thanks for the reply.
 

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yeah, I was more indicating that since you've gone this far, go ahead and do the other. Not that having the valve cover off helps, more since "you're into the project" and you've got the mindset to work on it. That's all I meant by it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
True. I'll probably put my passenger side back together, then replace the O rings on the driver's side oil rail. It won't take as long to do it since I know what parts to order now. I'll have the new O rings (or new plug) on hand before I ever tear that side down. Plus, that side is easier to access. Once it's done, I will go ahead and pull the turbo, pedistal, and HPOP STC fitting. I'll probably do the STC and driver's side oil rail all in the same weekend. Thanks for the replies. Any suggestions are welcomed. Do you guys have any thoughts on these old injectors that I'm going to keep using? I hate to pull them out when I'm going to put them right back in. Seems kind of unnessecary to me, unless there's something I could do to help them work better. If you guys do reply telling me to pull them, please tell me the instructions on what to do to the holes they go in once the injectors are out. I've heard guys say you need to suction out the holes, etc.
 

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If its not a HPOP pressure issue, I would look into injector issue to maybe.
 

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If it was mine I would do the other side and the stc kit and see what happens.
 
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