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I checked there site out and it does reference some trouble codes put out if there is a problem with the FICM but none seem to match what I pulled. Thoughts on that?
Ok, lol, i'm running out of ideas. Did I mention, injector oil pressure orings? The orings on the top of injectors that the oil rail engages. Hpop leak test may reveal that issue.

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Dammit Sinner I don't know that's why I'm buggin the sh!t outta you guys! Thanks for the input.
 

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The Silent Service
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The two injectors may already be toast, I'm going to agree there.

We have seen the root cause of the chain, in bad battery voltage from the PO. I just did my batteries, went with Motorcraft 850cca's. Hadn't seen FICM voltage issues before, but the truck is starting stronger now.

As for the FICM, did you check voltage while cranking? This will need to be done after the batteries are replaced to see if you need an FICM.

Another question here, do you know what your fuel pressure is?
May not be directly related, but it will take its toll on a set of injectors. You don't want to start replacing them only to have something cause them to fail quickly.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Alright, so I am trying to put together a plan. Batteries for sure, then check the FICM while cranking. Gauges, was looking at a CST, with pillar gauges to include fuel pressure, ?, and ?. Need some input on those. Planning on doing two injectors, so a question on that is, how much further do I need to go to go ahead and do the the head studs also? Deciding between a delete kit or BulletProof EGR. Coolant filter, and flush. Rebuild the oil cooler while I'm there. That should about tap me out of funds. Anyone have any suggestions, advice, changes?
 

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Alright, so I am trying to put together a plan. Batteries for sure, then check the FICM while cranking. Gauges, was looking at a CST, with pillar gauges to include fuel pressure, ?, and ?. Need some input on those. Planning on doing two injectors, so a question on that is, how much further do I need to go to go ahead and do the the head studs also? Deciding between a delete kit or BulletProof EGR. Coolant filter, and flush. Rebuild the oil cooler while I'm there. That should about tap me out of funds. Anyone have any suggestions, advice, changes?
Now you can get the Insight CTS to monitor both EGTs and Fuel Pressure, via the expandable accessories (check monitoring thread in sig). That single device will handle all the monitoring you need for the 6.0L. I run a Insight CS, with multiple Autometer Gauges - out of personal perference, and sometimes it becomes a little too much.

With you being in CO, I'm expecting the emissions testing to start working its way through the entire state, so I'd go with the BPD EGR cooler upgrade.

As part of the stud job a coolant flush (before the tear down), along with the EGR Cooler solution, oil cooler rebuild/replace/upgrade, as well as your model year weaknesses (check bullet-proofing thread) should all be addressed at once. You are tearing down all at once, do the job right have the heads checked at a machine shop. Shop around on all parts/fluids, and see if you can save enough to do a full bank of injectors or all of them instead of just the two (swap a current injector into the other bank since you have one going on each side).

I really support the addition of the coolant filter as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Alright, new batteries are in, does start even quicker now. What should voltage be cranking on the FICM? Monitor is on the way. And now for injectors. I would like to install one new bank and do the other a little later as funds allow and loosen up a bit. Also ordering today a BPD EGR Cooler.
 

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Alright, new batteries are in, does start even quicker now. What should voltage be cranking on the FICM? Monitor is on the way. And now for injectors. I would like to install one new bank and do the other a little later as funds allow and loosen up a bit. Also ordering today a BPD EGR Cooler.
No less than 45 cold cranking, cold running, hot cranking/running. I don't believe in changing banks of injectors personally. Unless maybe you know your ficm was bad for a while. Earlier My ficms could lose one injector at a time, late My would lose banks iirc.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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If you do head down the road of injectors maybe you'd like to take a look at a set of Warren Stock+. $500 for all eight last time I looked is a great deal, at least in my books, and most likely the route I'll take if/when my injectors go south. I guess it's more when than if... :dunno:
 

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This advice is off subject but it's good advice. Don't use synthetic oil in your diesel engine. It doesn't happen all that often, maybe 8% of the time but on those 8% of the engines that we remanufacture we find plastic turds plugging the oil rails in the block from synthetic oil turning into plastic if the engine overheats. It's believe it's like a clogged artery, it maybe happens over time instead of all at once.
We got a core back last week in which the entire crank was coated with black plastic. Keep in mind that we see it in about 8% of our tear downs. I don't know what percentage of 6.0 owners use synthetic but the number that we get in compared to how many use synthetic has to be very high.
 

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This advice is off subject but it's good advice. Don't use synthetic oil in your diesel engine. It doesn't happen all that often, maybe 8% of the time but on those 8% of the engines that we remanufacture we find plastic turds plugging the oil rails in the block from synthetic oil turning into plastic if the engine overheats. It's believe it's like a clogged artery, it maybe happens over time instead of all at once.
We got a core back last week in which the entire crank was coated with black plastic. Keep in mind that we see it in about 8% of our tear downs. I don't know what percentage of 6.0 owners use synthetic but the number that we get in compared to how many use synthetic has to be very high.
That's the first time I've heard of this and an interesting discussion should follow on this since the general consensus is that the 6.0 likes full synthetic oil!

I'm off to google I guess, I'd like to know how synthetic oil would turn into plastic.
 

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I have seen many synthetics that cause certain rubber and plastics to deterioate but I not shure about the cooking the oil and turning it into plastic.

I know only a little about the refineing process and even tho the synthetic oils share the same base chemicals there are several other additives that have to be added and it has to be cooked under a vacum to turn it into plastic. Not readyly available in a engine.

Altho it could be a rather crude form of plastic I guess. This is just gleaned from conversations with oil refinery process operators over the years. Scuttle butt more than anything else, take with a grain of salt LOL
 

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All I could find was making synthetic oil FROM recycled plastic, not the other way around. :dunno: Usually Google gives me something but not this time!

Pictures would be awesome to see. If you can't get them posted pm me and I'll get them on there.

Where are all the oil guys when you need them, I haven't got a clue when it comes to oil processes. :tard:
 

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April fools!!! ...........Oh april has passed.:confused:

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Alright so my injectors leave tomorrow to Warren Diesel, I got them pulled this afternoon. Just going to do them all. I have to pull my intake for the BPD EGR Cooler and was going to rebuild my oil cooler. Question now is how far am I from actually being able to do the head studs?
 

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I guess that depends on you definition of close. I didn't have the confidence to go as far as you are now when I did my bulletproofing. However, now that I've been in there and had it start back up afterwards I say you're close enough if you have the coin to drop on the studs. A year later I find myself wishing I would have done it while I was in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I guess that depends on you definition of close. I didn't have the confidence to go as far as you are now when I did my bulletproofing. However, now that I've been in there and had it start back up afterwards I say you're close enough if you have the coin to drop on the studs. A year later I find myself wishing I would have done it while I was in there.
Thats were I'm afraid of being, I hate doing stuff twice if it could have been handled the first time. I'm looking at it and thinking once I have the manifold off, whats really left to do the studs themselves? Outside of the money of course!
 

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I say go for it. You must have seen Dee004's sticky. Step by step all the way through, look it over and you'll see what's involved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Well shes back together, and I have problems. I may have overlooked something or another. APR studs installed, factory head gaskets, oil cooler rebuilt, IPR rebuilt, Bulletproof EGR cooler installed, new EGR valve, blue spring kit installed, SCT fitting upgraded. Going to go back through the harness and check connections. Took quite a while to get her fired back up, when it did, idle was REAL rough. Let it run for about fifteen minutes, and ran it around the neighborhood. Smoking like a ***** (black smoke), non responsive to throttle, boost only went up to about 6 lbs. At idle in park, revs to about 3K and then shuts down and drops back to idle with foot still in it. Smoked out the neighborhood and limped it back home. I missed something, any advice where to look?

ETA: Dash gives me a code at odometer to check air intake? But not all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I'm also going to post this up in the emergency area, because I need to try and get up the mountain for the last few days of Muzzle season!
 
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