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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a miss most prominent at idle. Started out mild and here and there, and now is a regular occurrence. Trying to diagnose it myself, hopefully get to put it on a scanner tomorrow but no guarantee on that. Seems to run through it, but at 1200 rpm and 45 mph it lugs and misses. Truck is new to me, nothing has been done. I have changed oil to synthetic Rotella, changed fuel filters and am running Diesel Kleen through it now. I have a video of it just have to figure out how to imbed it and you can hear it pretty well. CHECK YOUR VOLUME.

2006 PSD Miss at Idle - YouTube

No idea how to imbed it, so its a link to a youtube video I put it on.

Any ideas, I'm all about fixing it myself, no matter how deep I have to go! Except debt, maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Plan on adding an Insight CTS, will do the voltage checks tomorrow. Would a CTS help me identify a bad injector or help me eliminate other sources that could be the problem? I did use FOMOCO filters on both oil, fuel and air.
 

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Yes the cts will, it will allow you to see whats wrong with other things like batt, ficm, eot/ect, icp, before chain reactions occur. Reads stored codes.

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, I got to run it on a Snap On Solus Pro, and retrieved the following codes. P 0263, Cylinder 1 contribution or balance fault. P 0272 Cylinder 4, contribution or balance fault. Also did the engine running test and received, Brake swithc out of range, and A/C demand self out of range. So I am assuming that means both injectors in 1 and 4 are bad and this is where I run into a dilemma. Replacing two injectors is cost effective and will allow me to more steps in bullet proofing my PSD as in what is mentioned in the sticky. But I pretty much know that if two have gone, more will follow and could be very soon. So if I do them all that burns up the money for other mods. So what do you recommend I do? Outside rob an old lady for her pension, I have morals. Question also is if I went into the injectors, am I that far from being able to do the head bolts? Thanks for your input so far fellas. And none of this is swaying me from a gauge set to monitor, thats a given.
 

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Those codes don't mean the injectors are necessarily bad, could be ficm. Google ficm check procedure. I would change only the injectors that are bad, if that is what it is. It could also be combustion gases, pull your filter, ficm relay, fuel pump fuse, turn it over, see if you have bubbles coming in the filter housing.

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Discussion Starter #7
FICM reads 48.3 on and 48.3-48.4 running. No bubbles into filter housing when turned over. Thanks for those leads Southend.
 

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Well, I read your thread and tested both injectors and both ohm readings from 1-2 and 3-4 were at 8, and the second was at 7 across both. That is if I tested the correct cylinders. #1 is passenger front of vehicle (towards grill) and cylinder #4 is drivers side 2nd back from grill correct? What the thought on that?
 

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Injectors look good, ficm logic board could be bad. Load test your batteries, for insurance. Oil leaks at those injectors could jack with them. You may also want to do hpop leak test.

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Discussion Starter #11
Can I use a handheld load test, or do I have to take them to a shop? Would the FICM be bad even though it checks out voltage wise? And last is there anything else on the injector that could fail, and just actually be a bad injector?
 

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Can I use a handheld load test, or do I have to take them to a shop? Would the FICM be bad even though it checks out voltage wise? And last is there anything else on the injector that could fail, and just actually be a bad injector?
1- yes that should work
2 - yes, logic board
3 - cracked tip

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Discussion Starter #13
I'll disconnect each battery and run a load test on them, but just to add I now a CEL that was not there before I started the testing? Curiouser and Curiouser!
 

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See why a monitor is so important?

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Discussion Starter #15
See why a monitor is so important?

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.

Yes I do! Will be ordering one tomorrow or tonight. Battery test was not so good. Both battery started at about 12.5. Drivers side dropped to about 11 under load for 10 sec. and bounced right back, so checks ok. Passenger side dropped to about 8.5 and hesitated and then bounced back, not so good.
 

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Yes I do! Will be ordering one tomorrow or tonight. Battery test was not so good. Both battery started at about 12.5. Drivers side dropped to about 11 under load for 10 sec. and bounced right back, so checks ok. Passenger side dropped to about 8.5 and hesitated and then bounced back, not so good.
Now we're gettin somewhere, batteries kill ficms, ficms kill injectors, etc......viscious cycle.....

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Discussion Starter #17
So am I at a jumping point here, start with new quality batteries? And then.....
 

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So am I at a jumping point here, start with new quality batteries? And then.....
I'm thinkin ficm logic board, ficmrepair.com. If it was me.

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Discussion Starter #19
I checked there site out and it does reference some trouble codes put out if there is a problem with the FICM but none seem to match what I pulled. Thoughts on that?
 

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damn it, you guys do know that it's not even a little uncommon to put injectors in a 6.0? go ahead and change the ficm and then when that doesn't fix it put 2 injectors in it.

Edit -

A ficm can cause individual cylinders to slightly misfire when it is dropping M_PWR but if your main voltage is good then that's not common at all. This is where a home made injector noid light comes in handy. Ohm testing injectors doesn't do ****. If it's has internal high/low resistance the ficm is going to be pretty good about picking it up and throw a high/low circuit DTC.
 
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