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Well I bougta male plug(see ebay thing below). I'm gonna cut the wire with connector of my old clutcher 180,000 on it. I'm gonna make a separate plug in wiring insert with a wire to go to a grounding switch. That way the pigtail on the new fan clutch dont get cut and the main wiring harness dont get cut.

Transfer Case Shift Motor Connector MOTORCRAFT WPT-1136
 

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Rather than force my tired old eyes to read this whole post again, has anybody had any system issues after doing this mod. I converted to the BPD 7.3 fan clutch adapter and fan clutch but sheesh is it loud. I am replacing my 7.3 fan clutch in case it defective because it just seems to run too long and too often even with normal temps and no real load on the truck. I am concerned that the fact that the oil cooler added to the stack (oil cooler, CAC and radiator) is keeping the air temps at the front of the engine too warm to allow proper operation of the thermostat on the fan clutch. I hate to change this because my truck has never run cooler with more consistent EOT/ECT's. Any thoughts on this??? I suppose that I could start using my shooters ear protection and start looking like the fire truck drivers driving the old screaming Jimmy powered trucks...
 

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Rather than force my tired old eyes to read this whole post again, has anybody had any system issues after doing this mod. I converted to the BPD 7.3 fan clutch adapter and fan clutch but sheesh is it loud. I am replacing my 7.3 fan clutch in case it defective because it just seems to run too long and too often even with normal temps and no real load on the truck. I am concerned that the fact that the oil cooler added to the stack (oil cooler, CAC and radiator) is keeping the air temps at the front of the engine too warm to allow proper operation of the thermostat on the fan clutch. I hate to change this because my truck has never run cooler with more consistent EOT/ECT's. Any thoughts on this??? I suppose that I could start using my shooters ear protection and start looking like the fire truck drivers driving the old screaming Jimmy powered trucks...
I have had the same issue. With my fan clutch. When I heat it up it just never seems to shut off again especially pulling any kind of weight.

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Rather than force my tired old eyes to read this whole post again, has anybody had any system issues after doing this mod. I converted to the BPD 7.3 fan clutch adapter and fan clutch but sheesh is it loud. I am replacing my 7.3 fan clutch in case it defective because it just seems to run too long and too often even with normal temps and no real load on the truck. I am concerned that the fact that the oil cooler added to the stack (oil cooler, CAC and radiator) is keeping the air temps at the front of the engine too warm to allow proper operation of the thermostat on the fan clutch. I hate to change this because my truck has never run cooler with more consistent EOT/ECT's. Any thoughts on this??? I suppose that I could start using my shooters ear protection and start looking like the fire truck drivers driving the old screaming Jimmy powered trucks...
You'll find many satisfied customers, including me. It's been working great for 2 years. It does set a soft code, but big deal.

It appears there's been a couple failed attempts at this fan mod, but who knows what the problem was. The 7.3 clutch isn't interesting to me.:mad:
 

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It appears there's been a couple failed attempts at this fan mod, but who knows what the problem was. The 7.3 clutch isn't interesting to me.:mad:
Failed as in it didn't work or failed as in it caused damage to the truck..ie fried something?
 

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Failed as in it didn't work or failed as in it caused damage to the truck..ie fried something?
Not going to hurt the truck unless they majorly messed something up. My clutch is also loud but the A/C boost it gave me was well worth the extra noise.
 

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Rather than force my tired old eyes to read this whole post again, has anybody had any system issues after doing this mod. I converted to the BPD 7.3 fan clutch adapter and fan clutch but sheesh is it loud. I am replacing my 7.3 fan clutch in case it defective because it just seems to run too long and too often even with normal temps and no real load on the truck. I am concerned that the fact that the oil cooler added to the stack (oil cooler, CAC and radiator) is keeping the air temps at the front of the engine too warm to allow proper operation of the thermostat on the fan clutch. I hate to change this because my truck has never run cooler with more consistent EOT/ECT's. Any thoughts on this??? I suppose that I could start using my shooters ear protection and start looking like the fire truck drivers driving the old screaming Jimmy powered trucks...
Doubt its the oil cooler, I have the HD option with the clutch and the fan noise is the same no matter if it on cold start driving around or after an hour when my coolant is 200ish (I have a 200F stat)
 

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Thanks.....the color of wire coming out on fan side is different. So makes no different which side you ground.....I just don't want to mess with engine side.
 

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Weird to me that you guys complain of over operation of the fan with the 7.3 clutch. It seems the only time my fan engages is on a cold start after sitting. I never hear the fan come on, not even at 215* temps.
Maybe my Hayden clutch is defective?

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My stock fan doesn't seem to have a specific temp when it comes on. I think it has something to do with a combination of things to be triggered. The only time I hear it come on consistently is when I turn off the main road and start driving up a dirt road to our cabin. The temps coming off the main road (which is already a mountain grade) is 204ish (ECT). As I drive slow up the dirt road the temps will climb to 210ish. Somewhere around 208 the fan will come on and stay on till I pull into the driveway. The length of the dirt road is a 1/2 mile. The fan comes on about a 1/4 mile in. I think the truck recognizes that there is an increased load (uphill) combined with a slow speed so it fires up the fan. When I get this mod done I'm going to fire up the fan at the base of the mountain to try to keep the temps down. (I have a 190 thermostat).
 

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With the OEM setup, just because you don't hear it, doesn't mean is not working. There are several inputs that determine how much the fan clutch is engaged. ECT, EOT, A/C status, trans temp, load. I don't pretend to know what specific criteria have to be met to pull the fan in 100%, but you can monitor fan speed and see increases when temps start to rise. The PCM is able to bring it to desired speed in stages, not all at once like you get with the blue wire mod. I think @Yahiko (?) was thinking about making a setup that would allow you to bring in the fan in percentages with the blue wire mod, but I don't know if he ever did it. The OEM fan has its advantages; drivability (less noise), better fuel mileage, less wear and tear on the water pump bearings and seals, but if I towed all the time like some do, I'd probably try the 7.3 fan myself. Right now, my switch does a very acceptable job. I rarely use it.
 

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I run Torque Pro and monitor the fan amongst the normal PIDs to monitor. I usually see the fan running in the 250/350rpm range in normal driving. When I hit the hill I mentioned earlier I'm driving 15mph and I'm already warmed up by the mile long mountain drive. At that time the fan can hit the 3000rpm mark or close to it. I think if I flip the switch before the mountain climb my temps won't rise. I'd rather not have to leave my truck running outside the cabin while I wait for the temps to drop again. Other than this instance I can't think of any other consistent occurrences when the fan goes 100%.
 

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With the OEM setup, just because you don't hear it, doesn't mean is not working. There are several inputs that determine how much the fan clutch is engaged. ECT, EOT, A/C status, trans temp, load. I don't pretend to know what specific criteria have to be met to pull the fan in 100%, but you can monitor fan speed and see increases when temps start to rise. The PCM is able to bring it to desired speed in stages, not all at once like you get with the blue wire mod. I think @Yahiko (?) was thinking about making a setup that would allow you to bring in the fan in percentages with the blue wire mod, but I don't know if he ever did it. The OEM fan has its advantages; drivability (less noise), better fuel mileage, less wear and tear on the water pump bearings and seals, but if I towed all the time like some do, I'd probably try the 7.3 fan myself. Right now, my switch does a very acceptable job. I rarely use it.
You are correct I did not get that project done. Part of the problem is finding a control element that can handle the currents
and still allow the input from the PCM when in an auto mode. Also it seemed that some where very happy with the 7.3 fan mod.
I I am guilty of puttting it on the back burner and forgetting about it.

I might dig this project back up and start on it again. The one issue I see is how many would want to build the circuit and do the programming.

I run Torque Pro and monitor the fan amongst the normal PIDs to monitor. I usually see the fan running in the 250/350rpm range in normal driving. When I hit the hill I mentioned earlier I'm driving 15mph and I'm already warmed up by the mile long mountain drive. At that time the fan can hit the 3000rpm mark or close to it. I think if I flip the switch before the mountain climb my temps won't rise. I'd rather not have to leave my truck running outside the cabin while I wait for the temps to drop again. Other than this instance I can't think of any other consistent occurrences when the fan goes 100%.
I think your quite right on the point of pre-starting the fan of the cool down time.

One thing you may see if you own a small car with electric fans. When you stop them and park the fan may come on
while it's sitting as the heat in the engine spread out from the highest temp point to the point where the temp sensor is.
This brings on the fan to cool the radiator and you get cooling moving do to a convection process in the system.

That all said. You might want to try the blue wire and then after shutdown watch the temps to see how they come up.


A note about PWM fan controls. The PCM can bring the fan up slowly so that you don't hear the roar at first.
Also at speed air moved through the radiator very well and you don't need the fan. It's at slow speeds
the the air flow drops to the point where you do need the fan to help move the air.
 

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^^Excuses, excuses... :poke

Just kidding, glad you're still hanging around. You're probably right, not many would put your work to use unless you sold a kit for $5, but I'm in for $5. :lol:
 

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A comment was made earlier regarding concern for running the blue wire to a switch inside the cab. I've measured that current flow through the blue wire on my Ex when directly grounded and have never seen anything in excess of 1.5 amps.

While putting a ground-switched thermostat control on my Ex (See Post 359, still don't have enough posts to post a link) I was also thinking about possible PWM controls. As I understand the PWM functionality, 12 volts is supplied to the positive side, and the PWM control is implemented by control of the ground.
I found a PWM controller (DROK Motor Speed Control Driver Board, available on Amazon) that effectively does this. Wiring required power to the controller, and then attaching the blue wire to the MOTOR OUT Negative terminal. No connection is required at the MOTOR Out Positive terminal, it uses the controller power ground to ground the blue wire by PWM.
The truth is the control is not at all precise. I can adjust the motor controller incrementally to speed the fan up or slow it down, but the time lag between adjusting the controller and the time the fan actually responds makes it difficult to perceive small changes. But it does work. I've recently spent some time on the interstate dialing the fan speed up and down. Responds just like a switch when you go from off to full on.

Oh, and the controller is less than $10 on Amazon. LOL
 

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It would be more on like $150 and I bet I would still loose money on it.
I imagine there would be plenty of interest in a variable "blue wire mod" since the only other option is the BPD 7.3 fan clutch conversion for $250, you could probably sell it.
 

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A comment was made earlier regarding concern for running the blue wire to a switch inside the cab. I've measured that current flow through the blue wire on my Ex when directly grounded and have never seen anything in excess of 1.5 amps.

While putting a ground-switched thermostat control on my Ex (See Post 359, still don't have enough posts to post a link) I was also thinking about possible PWM controls. As I understand the PWM functionality, 12 volts is supplied to the positive side, and the PWM control is implemented by control of the ground.
I found a PWM controller (DROK Motor Speed Control Driver Board, available on Amazon) that effectively does this. Wiring required power to the controller, and then attaching the blue wire to the MOTOR OUT Negative terminal. No connection is required at the MOTOR Out Positive terminal, it uses the controller power ground to ground the blue wire by PWM.
The truth is the control is not at all precise. I can adjust the motor controller incrementally to speed the fan up or slow it down, but the time lag between adjusting the controller and the time the fan actually responds makes it difficult to perceive small changes. But it does work. I've recently spent some time on the interstate dialing the fan speed up and down. Responds just like a switch when you go from off to full on.

Oh, and the controller is less than $10 on Amazon. LOL
The difference is the setup I was talking about would have an auto return to PCM control.
It would also let the PCM override the controller if the PCM demanded more fan ON time.
This way you could add on fan speed for A/C operation at low speeds and if you happened
to not change it when pulling a heavy load the PCM would still keep things cool.

That way you would not have to worry about forgetting the switch.

I imagine there would be plenty of interest in a variable "blue wire mod" since the only other option is the BPD 7.3 fan clutch conversion for $250, you could probably sell it.
I am starting to have extra time and may very well go ahead and do the programming.
I just need to find out if a MOSFET would be the best option of the control element.
 

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I'm currently running all three controllers in parallel, the PCM, the thermostatic ground-switching controller, and the PWM controller. The controller that comes on first initiates the fan, any of the three over-rides the others. Multiple controllers requesting fan power should result in an additive or maybe multiplicative response. Worst case is full on. I think this is clearly overkill, but I just added the PWM controller on top of the thermostatic controller to see if/how it would work. Really just playing with PWM stuff to learn more about it.
No evidence of any codes so far, but I admittedly haven't used it much since installation last fall. And I'm not sure if I can see soft codes.
 
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