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Good morning everybody,
Im in the process of putting my ‘08 shuttle bus’ engine back together. This is my first time and I’m learning a lot. I had to cut off the LPOP wear ring to remove the assembly. Am I able to buy just another ring or would you recommended replacing the entire setup? Also, is the ring 100% necessary? Thanks in advance
 

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I don't have personal experience with LPOP replacement, but I've learned that anytime you need to ask "should I just replace the whole setup" and it isn't that expensive, replace it all.
 

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I don't have personal experience with LPOP replacement, but I've learned that anytime you need to ask "should I just replace the whole setup" and it isn't that expensive, replace it all.
Agreed. I always ask myself, "Do I mind doing this all over again if this doesn't work?" If the answer is Yes, ehhhh...roll with it. If it's No, then take the time to save some time!

-jokester
 
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You guys will love my front cover video whenever I finish it.

OP, are you talking about the outer ring of the pump? Because they are a matched pair once they have any use on them.
 

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you didnt notch the crank when you were cutting did you op? im guessing you used an abrasive cutting wheel? huge problem if you did... crank is junk if so.. both the crank surface and the ring are essential for the front of the engine to not pee oil lol

next time you need to remove any wear ring on anything use the right tool or just gently ding it all around with a ball peen hammer and it will deform and come off just takes patience and gentleness.

you cant get just a ring you need to get a new front main seal and it comes matched with a new ring. you want fel-pro TCS 46197 or motorcraft 3C3Z-6700-BA
fel pro made the oem main seals for navi/ford so its the same sh*t.

get the right tool to install it or use the crank pulley just dont screw it up


You guys will love my front cover video whenever I finish it.

OP, are you talking about the outer ring of the pump? Because they are a matched pair once they have any use on them.
did you rebuild the turbo on your 03? im more curious what you think about greasing unison rings/vanes.
im anti grease pro diesel additive to keep the carbon loose and flowing out the tail pipe instead of sticking to the grease and gumming up. I wonder if garret shipped them greased to
 

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The Fel-Pro division of Federal-Mogul never supplied the seal to International. The National division of Federal-Mogul supplied the OE crank seals, front and back.

I've rebuilt these turbo's a few times. I did use the anti-seize in the kits International supplied - which is just the over-the-counter Permatex. But when putting it on, I did so with a very light coat, wipe on/wipe off/leave a residue. I did not use the abrasive included with the kits, though. I used brass wire wheels, including down to Dremel-size wheels.

Ford in TSB 06-18-3 says not to use the grease. I never had an issue doing it that way.

I had a new Garrett turbo that was given to me, but I never opened it before I installed it.
 

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im anti grease pro diesel additive to keep the carbon loose and flowing out the tail pipe instead of sticking to the grease and gumming up. I wonder if garret shipped them greased to
I'm in the same boat. I bet the grease just burns off after 50 miles so it's probably wasted effort.
 

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Nickel based anti-seize for turbo - won't burn off. VERY light coating as Suggested by Jack.
wont the carbon just stick to it and sh*t it up eventually? I'm not saying either way is superior just my thinking is that its better to make the spent carbon "unsticky" with additive and send it out the pipe


Ford in TSB 06-18-3 says not to use the grease.
wish they explained these lol
 

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>>wish they explained these lol
Having been involved with some of the TSBs, advisories, and two recalls, they can be quite the diversion from reality.

However, the problem with giving directions is the interpretation and modification 'cause about 30% (undercount?) think they know better. If a little is good, more is better. And turbos were high on the list of warranties.

After my old company closed my testing facilities, one of my guys went to work for a school bus dealer in our area. Many buses had the VT-365, and just before schools reopened, there were a good number of turbos being replaced until the school's maintenance got into the habit of running the buses two to four times a month. South Jersey gets humid, and the turbos rust up. I know their shop used anti-seize during "cleanings". It's not a long-lasting solution, but I've never had an issue with the anti-seize when I've done it.

On the opposite side of 'mor better - We interfaced with both trucking, shipping, and metro transit operations over my career. The best operations had programs in place where the mechanics did proactive work to not just correct common faults but do things for the next guy, which may be as simple as lubricating or marking items that would be disassembled or replaced the next time. I've learned that habit even though I'm a crew of one. As Keith (Ford_Doctor) noted in another thread, using the electric grease on light bulb bases, turn locks, and connectors. You can't help everyone, but you can help yourself.
 
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