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Discussion Starter #1
While changing the rotors/calipers/pads in my 07 F250 , i noticed some play in the drivers side wheel. Upon closer inspection the nut on the lower ball joint has apparently backed off and allow the ball joint to come loose... I dont drive the truck everyday so it doesnt see a lot of road time.

These were replaced by a shop in Virginia a couple years ago...

Ive never experienced anything quite like that? is this common to these trucks?

I have ordered the upper and lower joints and the main seal for the axle and the tool to install it. After watching a few vids it seems fairly straightforward...

any tips greatly appreciated...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After watching a few videos... is there a reason that I have to separate the wheel and hub assy? why cant I just take the 4 bolts off the back and pop the entire assy off?
 

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The seal is in the part that the ball joints are fastened to(knuckle) -- you can just remove the 4 bolts, but the big seal will give trouble

The ball joint nut being loose is a concern, depending on how much it has been wearing the bore -- the axle housing may be damaged -- there are ways to 'fix' this without replacement

Here is a vid that shows the procedure pretty well

 

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Discussion Starter #4
The seal is in the part that the ball joints are fastened to(knuckle) -- you can just remove the 4 bolts, but the big seal will give trouble

The ball joint nut being loose is a concern, depending on how much it has been wearing the bore -- the axle housing may be damaged -- there are ways to 'fix' this without replacement

Here is a vid that shows the procedure pretty well

https://youtu.be/r9eOiTFbbpI
Yes i am worried about the wear in the bore... but i wont know until i look at it. I dont drive the truck much, and there is probably 20k on those joints since they were replaced, Moog, is that a good brand?

Yes that is the video i was referencing.... it seems to me that just taking those four bolts off the back and popping the whole assy off will be much easier since there is nothing wrong with the seals currently and they should all remain intact?
 

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has apparently backed off and allow the ball joint to come loose
the lower BJ should not even need a nut ( argument sake) with the 4000 lbs truck sitting on it

the fact that it was loose and you had play is curious
keep us updated
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the lower BJ should not even need a nut ( argument sake) with the 4000 lbs truck sitting on it

the fact that it was loose and you had play is curious
keep us updated
I dont "think' it was loose because as you say the truck was sitting on it. It only slipped down i think because the tire was jacked up to change the brakes... at least thats what im hoping. Im surprised the top is pinned but the bottom one is not, you would think they both would be.
there is no wandering or odd tire wear... but like i said, i dont drive it alot or long distances... but will be now because my son is driving the car now...
 

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Jap nuts should have plenty of drag. If you can spin it down by hand all the way, replace it. You always have the option of drilling the nut, and using .032 safety wire. If you don’t have a press, you can buy an inexpensive jig to do it. But really—-replace the nut first.

Too many people overlook the importance of replacing nyloc or jap nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Jap nuts should have plenty of drag. If you can spin it down by hand all the way, replace it. You always have the option of drilling the nut, and using .032 safety wire. If you don’t have a press, you can buy an inexpensive jig to do it. But really—-replace the nut first.

Too many people overlook the importance of replacing nyloc or jap nuts.
The shop that did the work is up in Virginia somewhere, right before I bought the truck. It had a bunch of work done to it, BPD oil cooler, EGR cooler, brakes, ball joints and various other front end work... about 12k total which is why i bought the truck, and it was one owner who traded it in for another truck.

I am seriously considering Safety wire, at the very least locktite...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The seal is in the part that the ball joints are fastened to(knuckle) -- you can just remove the 4 bolts, but the big seal will give trouble

The ball joint nut being loose is a concern, depending on how much it has been wearing the bore -- the axle housing may be damaged -- there are ways to 'fix' this without replacement

Here is a vid that shows the procedure pretty well

https://youtu.be/r9eOiTFbbpI
How do you fix it without a replacement? tapered bushing of some sort?

I got the axle off finally, i literally had to use the biggest pry bar i could find and it finally came off.... didnt get the the joints themselves but I will tonight...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok looks like a very small amount of wear on the top of the taper where the bolt was rubbing it, but not much. I finally got the ball joints replaced and put them back exactly like the video... i could detect zero play and everything seems as it should be... I'm going to call it good.

I'm going to take the axle assy apart and replace that one big seal... since i bought it and the tool just in case...

amazon shows 2 seals, but i only see the big one? not sure the other is replaceable? I did order the yellow o ring...
 

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There are actually three seals on each axle side - The inner, dust, and vacuum(hub) seals

The most commonly replaced are the dust seal in the outer axle extension tube
and the hub seal that holds vacuum(ESOF) in the hub -- doubles as a dirt/water seal for the hub
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok im a bit confused... followed the video to the letter on torquing the ball joints. after they are incredibly tight, you cant move it without a prybar, and the whole nut assy moves... the bottom ball joint... not sure what i am doing wrong? then the nut backs off slightly and you can move it... the other side never moves... ??
 

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The bottom joint is in a fixed position carrying the load of the axle -- the top joint can float back a little, as it only stabilizes that area

be sure the bottom nut is tight and smack the knuckle a few times to allow the upper joint to slide up a little, this should release the stress

you should be able to rotate the assemble with one hand
 

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I suppose if the lower hole is worn there are a couple of ways to fix this

The upper stop, on the knuckle, for the joint could be relieved a bit to allow the joint to seat a bit lower - that would let the knuckle sit a little higher, and fix the clearance problem

Could form a 0.005 shim around the lower joint stem to refresh the hole

Laugh if you want, but this works -- JB Weld will take up any part of the hole that is egged out - long is it is only slightly egged

As long as the joint will tighten up to the hole it will be OK, if there is much wobble in the fit, then the hole can be reamed back to size, but the steering knuckle will need to be modified for clearance
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I am thinking either ream and machine bushing....or something like that...it doesnt worn to me...if I knew the taper I could measure it...or use some SS shim stock to take up the difference of a few thousand...
 

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Pull the hub assemble back off and Use the old ball joint to see the fit of the taper - remove the seal from the joint so only the taper shaft makes contact

Brass or steel shim will work, if that is what is needed -- machining the knuckle is no problem if you have a buddy with a mill

the upper joint goes into a split bushing(used for alignment) this bushing may have slipped too far downward
need to fully tighten the lower joint, before the upper(as opposed to the vid) to allow the upper bushing to slip if it needs
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pull the hub assemble back off and Use the old ball joint to see the fit of the taper - remove the seal from the joint so only the taper shaft makes contact

Brass or steel shim will work, if that is what is needed -- machining the knuckle is no problem if you have a buddy with a mill

the upper joint goes into a split bushing(used for alignment) this bushing may have slipped too far downward
need to fully tighten the lower joint, before the upper(as opposed to the vid) to allow the upper bushing to slip if it needs
Yeah i think i will try that... the top doesnt look like it has slipped but I will check.
I thought about tigging some Silicon Bronze in as well...
when i get back I guess I will decide what to do... shimming with SS shim stock seems best/easiest i guess...
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I suppose if the lower hole is worn there are a couple of ways to fix this

The upper stop, on the knuckle, for the joint could be relieved a bit to allow the joint to seat a bit lower - that would let the knuckle sit a little higher, and fix the clearance problem

Could form a 0.005 shim around the lower joint stem to refresh the hole

Laugh if you want, but this works -- JB Weld will take up any part of the hole that is egged out - long is it is only slightly egged

As long as the joint will tighten up to the hole it will be OK, if there is much wobble in the fit, then the hole can be reamed back to size, but the steering knuckle will need to be modified for clearance
How would you use JB weld? trying to picture that... how would you get the joint to the proper height? once it hardens then yeah I can see that...
 
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