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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

sorry for the long read it’s been a sh** show.

Truck: F550 6.0
Mileage:92xxx
Year: 2006

a little Over a month ago I took my truck to the Ford stealer for a oil change the next day it fired up got to my job 17 miles away and has been cranking no start since.

I took it to the dealer, originally we thought it was an stc fitting leak they never found a leak after several pressure tests with and with out valve covers

we than replaced the ipr

than checked for a leak again tried searching for blockage took apart dummy plugs and fuel rails no luck or blockage found

we than replaced the hpop

I come to find out after a month of working on it at the dealership and thousands in parts and labor I find out that they broke the oil filter housing tube during the oil change. which I know is directly related to oil pressure after fighting the dealership over this they have buttoned my truck up and it’s sitting at home now.

ficm Sync is in spec
Ficm main power is great at 47+ when cranking
Ipr% reads 84.7 (yikes)
Icpv reads .24
Icp pressure reads 370 Max when cranking

a leak has been ruled out over the course of many back to back checks with and with out valve covers with shop air

everything I could throw at this I have thrown at this with the exception of the oil screen beneath the oil cooler.

Am I missing anything? What else can I check?
 

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It seems like you've done everything. It sucks that it was a dealer mistake to begin with.

How is the fuel pressure? Did they replace or just service the standpipes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
It seems like you've done everything. It sucks that it was a dealer mistake to begin with.

How is the fuel pressure? Did they replace or just service the standpipes?
They only serviced them, but they are brand new 90 days ago along with dummy plugs, fuel rails, turbo, and injectors.

I’m not too sure what fuel pressure is I’ll test it and get back to you but less than 90 days ago, I swapped both fuel filters & serviced the fuel conditioning module and the fuel pump is brand new. I bought this truck from my father 90 days ago and went through replacing everything in the beginning to avoid head ache.

I am pretty sure there is still air in my system from the dealership could air in my hpop system cause low high pressure oil? I remember having to crank along time to build pressure after swapping fuel rails & injectors. I still believe it’s possible the broken oil filter tube and wrongly seated oil filter caused this problem from the beginning.
 

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.24v at 370psi seems a bit off. Should see ~.21v KOEO (0psi). Have you tried unplugging the ICP sensor and seeing if it will start?

-jokester
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
.24v at 370psi seems a bit off. Should see ~.21v KOEO (0psi). Have you tried unplugging the ICP sensor and seeing if it will start?

-jokester
Actually that .24v is when not cranking I was always told only to monitor icpv key on engine off than disregard it once proven to be in spec. I have disconnected the icp sensor and tried to start with no stone luck. Thoroughbreaddiesel tells me that 300 psi is a pressure the truck will default to when other problems are present but my truck hasn’t thrown a single code.
 

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My bad...your FICM & IPR values were "while cranking" so I assumed ICPv was too. What is it while cranking and seeing 370psi? Do you have Cam/crank sync as well as FICM sync?

-jokester
 

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As a general rule 1.5 - 2.0 volts when cranking
you have to get 500 psi for the system to fire the injectors -- that is about 0.85 volts
the 85% says the PCM wants more pressure

You have a leak or the pump is bad -- the IPR valve can also cause low pressure, if the poppet is not seating
the 85% is a "commanded" value, there is no proof that the valve is responding other than the ICP sensor value

Air testing should be done thru the IPR port for best results, because of the check valves in the stand pipes
testing thru the ICP port may or may not show the IPR working, the late style valves will hold a little over 200 psi with no electrical power
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As a general rule 1.5 - 2.0 volts when cranking
you have to get 500 psi for the system to fire the injectors -- that is about 0.85 volts
the 85% says the PCM wants more pressure

You have a leak or the pump is bad -- the IPR valve can also cause low pressure, if the poppet is not seating
the 85% is a "commanded" value, there is no proof that the valve is responding other than the ICP sensor value

Air testing should be done thru the IPR port for best results, because of the check valves in the stand pipes
testing thru the ICP port may or may not show the IPR working, the late style valves will hold a little over 200 psi with no electrical power
The ipr and hpop are both brand new icp is not. Being that the icp is not reading a healthy voltage when cranking could the icp be junk?

I also heard that reading in the 300’s psi can be a commanded read when the ecm detects a major problem and the truck is preventing itself from causing damage.

I’ve only pressure tested through the icp With the valve covers off with no luck finding a leak. I guess I’ll have to try through the ipr port and see if I can pin point a leak.
 

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Let's start with fuel. Open the upper bowl and see if there's fuel in it. If not, remove the filter, turn the key to (on), the fuel bowl should fill in a second or two. If it passes that, then do the air check through the ipr port. It should hold 120psi. Usually a leak can be heard right away, but listen carefully anyways. If it passes that, the lpo would be my next guess. You didn't say if you replaced the oil filter housing, but that should have been done and the filter housing should have oil in it when you remove the filter, but not full (I think).
It does take quite a bit of cranking to built all the pressure in the oil system, especially after all the work that's been done. I usually hook up jumpers from another vehicle to keep my batteries up while doing this, make sure you don't overheat the starter.
OH and make sure they actually put oil in it and the proper amount.
There are other things that can be checked. The plugs on the ficm, especially the front most plug.
Remember, fuel, oil and air to run.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Let's start with fuel. Open the upper bowl and see if there's fuel in it. If not, remove the filter, turn the key to (on), the fuel bowl should fill in a second or two. If it passes that, then do the air check through the ipr port. It should hold 120psi. Usually a leak can be heard right away, but listen carefully anyways. If it passes that, the lpo would be my next guess. You didn't say if you replaced the oil filter housing, but that should have been done and the filter housing should have oil in it when you remove the filter, but not full (I think).
It does take quite a bit of cranking to built all the pressure in the oil system, especially after all the work that's been done. I usually hook up jumpers from another vehicle to keep my batteries up while doing this, make sure you don't overheat the starter.
OH and make sure they actually put oil in it and the proper amount.
There are other things that can be checked. The plugs on the ficm, especially the front most plug.
Remember, fuel, oil and air to run.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk
I will check out the fuel first thing in the morning and go from there thanks so much for your response. But I’m curious to know what you mean by ipo?
 

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I think it is safe to say your ICP sensor is reading correctly. Voltage is good at KOEO and responding when you are cranking. I second the statement of checking your HPO system for leaks through the IPR hole with the appropriate fitting. I also agree with finding out if you have Low oil pressure. When cranking is your oil pressure dummy gauge coming up on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think it is safe to say your ICP sensor is reading correctly. Voltage is good at KOEO and responding when you are cranking. I second the statement of checking your HPO system for leaks through the IPR hole with the appropriate fitting. I also agree with finding out if you have Low oil pressure. When cranking is your oil pressure dummy gauge coming up on the dash?
yes when cranking the dummy gauge shoots up.
 

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This is the Fitting I purchased on amazon. Very good price and I found my leak almost Instantly when I applied shop air. With the info you're giving it really does sound like a leak. I doubt that you had two bad pumps back to back, but anything is possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

This is the Fitting I purchased on amazon. Very good price and I found my leak almost Instantly when I applied shop air. With the info you're giving it really does sound like a leak. I doubt that you had two bad pumps back to back, but anything is possible.
quick update I ordered the fitting you recommended as well as the fuel rail adapters, a new oil cooler, and all the gaskets I need to tear her down. In a couple days I will start tearing her down crossing one thing off at a time. Thank you guys for giving me some good ideas to check I will get back to you in a few days and let you all know where I am at. Merry Christmas
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Merry Christmas to you too! Let us know what you find
All righty I ran a leak test sure enough found a leak in passenger side dummy plug I replaced all stand pipes and dummy plugs ( they were brand new 90 days ago :mad: & dealer ducked em up. Anyways I buttoned her up and she ran like a top for 50 miles, this morning goo g 2 miles down the way to Home Depot I lost power it started running rough and wouldn’t go more than 10 mph any ideas? Idles normal sounds spotty when revving though and very very low power.
 
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