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Since the IPR screen was in perfect condition and nothing was on the screen, I would think the oil cooler screen is in good condition. I have a new one but I really don't want to pull the intake to change.
You might be fine, but if any "pieces" were shed by the HPOP, they could be in the HPOP suction line or in the oil reservoir below the oil cooler. The procedure is to flush all of that to be 100% sure.

I doubt that anyone can give you any assurance that you will be ok by skipping that step. You might run that past the folks at DieselSite.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Would the flush procedure be to put new oil in through the oil filter housing and let it flow through the hpop feed tube to clear it out?
 

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That would be better than nothing. I would remove the oil filter standpipe to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I will do that, I just had a big scare, was removing hpop to flush and one of the bushings came out and went tink tink and disappeared into the cam valley. Luckily I have a digital inspection camera from harbor freight which as of now has paid for itself 3 times. Found and retrieved it with ease.
 
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Discussion Starter #25
Well....changed hpop and ipr with new motorcraft while I was there even though the one I took out looked fine and changed the icp. I haven't changed the pigtail on the icp yet but I checked and it does have supplied 5v. Tried cranking and no start, 0 icp pressure. WTF. I have a check engine light but no codes on sct or handheld, for some reason the bluetooth obdii dongle will not connect to torque pro so can't use it for diagnostics right now. How can it be 0 psi, even my first failed hpop a year ago made 200-300 psi. 0 tells me the computer is not getting the signal at all, must be a wiring issue, I don't understand the check engine light though.
 

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Do you have sync? Should be 1
BTL
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I don't know if I can see that with sct, I have new elm ordered be here Monday so I can see everything. For some reason it won't connect to truck.
 

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At the Data Link Connector:
The top row of pins begin with #1 from the left, and end with #8 on the right. The bottom row begin with #9 from the left, and end with #16 on the right.

Verify that you have B+ (battery voltage) to pin #16 of the DLC (Data Link Connector - OBDII port). This terminal should be powered at ALL times.
If you don't, then check fuse #12 (cigar lighter fuse - 20 AMP mini fuse). Also verify that the cigar lighter doesn't work.

Verify ground at body ground pin #4 and sensor ground pin #5 also.

Check resistance between pins 6 and 14 on the DLC with the key off. Should be 0, 60, or 120 ohms. Everything is OK if it is 60 ohms.
Pins 6 and 14 are the CAN bus (+) and (-). Pin 6 is the CAN serial data highway line

Verify 5 volts at pin #10.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
I will check everything in the morning. I thought I would also check resistance of the icp wires, the turbo landed a little harsher than I would have liked on the main wiring harness when removing, possible could have broke some wires. Thanks,
 
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Discussion Starter #30
OK, able to get phone to connect and check codes with torque app. B1352 key in circuit failure, have had this before when remote start alarm was installed and had shorted, it is no longer installed and haven't had this issue since. I did take the steering column apart and found that the sensor for key in ignition had come out, so I reinstalled it and now chimes with key in ignition but fault still present. The P2285 icp short to ground, I checked resistance from plug to terminal on all three legs and good, also checked to ground and all open, cleared codes and has not come back. I have not checked the data link connector yet but figured since the sct, handheld and now the bluetooth and torque app were working a non issue, but I can still check to be thorough. Something is keeping the check engine light on and hindering the start circuit, it cranks but no start. I am going to add ficm sink and ipr % pid's to phone torque app.
 

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Compression Ignition Addict
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Add the "fuel pulse width" PID also.

Also - P2285 is what you get when trying to start w/ the ICP sensor unplugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I did try that so probably the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well..... I read this thread and freaked out because I had to move the stc fitting from the old hpop to the new one which I thought was weird considering the price of the new one. https://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0-motor-problems/1131553-sold-0-icp-need-help-please-5.html But I also decided to double check LP oil so I removed the oil filter and cranked using remote start wire and filled quickly, very aerated though. Then I removed the icp and cranked again, a lot of air came out then oil came bubbling up out of the ground, black gold that is, oh sorry. Cleaned it up and re-installed the icp. Attached are screen shots of KOEO and yes, KOER yeah!!!!! After about 15-20 seconds of cranking it fired up. Guess I had air trapped in the system and just hadn't cranked long enough to purge and build pressure, although I did kill the battery twice. Didn't let it run long, still need to tighten the Y pipe exhaust bolts then go on a drive and datalog parameters and see if any better, especially after it warms up. Thanks a bunch for your help.
 

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Thanks for posting the conclusion!

Just as an FYI, I doubt that DieselSite sells very many 05 and up Adrenaline HPOP's (normally the OEM ones are reliable). That could be why you would have to re-use your own HPOP's one-piece discharge fitting (that replaces the original failure-prone STC fitting).
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The one I used was a two piece that came on the thumper1 hpop that I took off. Maybe a one piece with locking nut? I tightened Y pipe but still have a small leak, will fix first thing am and take for trial run, get up to temp and make some pulls and post data to compare to before. Hopefully this solves the original issue of icp pressure dropping and being erratic. If not, I have a whole other issue and will just drive the fire out of it, still faster than most.
 
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Yup, one-piece fitting w/ jam nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Fixed exhaust leaks and checked everything over real good. Let engine warm up and went for a drive. Attached is data from the run, ICP V and IPR % still don't look right to me.
 

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It takes a while to get all of the air out of the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
What would be the best (fastest) way to get all the air out? Let it idle for a while, hour or so? Drive around? This truck/project is driving me crazy.
 

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Ford recommends a few (maybe 5 or 6) reasonably quick accelerations to WOT and up to 50 miles of driving. To me, your numbers don't really look bad.
 
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